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MG MGB Technical - Clutch Master cylinder

Hello experts....

I must be missing something on my 80B. I simply want to rebuild the cluthc mastercylinder, bhowever cannot seem to see how I am going to remove it. The rear nut securing the cylinder near the firewall looks impossible to get to? Can the rebuild be done in place? Or, am I making a simple process too difficult?

Thanks ~~ Patrick
401

No...you want it out of there. Get specific advice from someone with similar year as mine is much older. Mine was a bear to get out the first time and had to use impact driver to remove PoziDrive screws holding the cover down and the ones holding the unit itself down were difficult as well. I seem to remember buying parts for my 1/4" socket wrench that made it work or having a stubby wrench that worked. You may want to re-build but having gone through the evaluation process and heard from many people on this and other boards...the consensus was to buy new as you may re-do it soon otherwise. May depend on condition, though. Be interesting to see what others say.
J.T. Bamford

Don't forget the rubber access panel through the firewall immediately behind the MCs. Even then it is a real fiddle.
Paul Hunt

You can rebuild it in place. Pull the top cover, Pull the boot, pull the clevis pin, angled snap ring pliers will get clip. A pick to get parts out. Plenty of rags to catch fluid. carb cleaner and air to blow out. Do slave first. About an hour job (or less) for both cylinders. Bob Thompson/International Auto
Bob Thompson

I've just tackled this on my 80 B. After deciding to service both the slave and master cylinders I ended up renewing them because they were so badly scored. This would be invisible if you rebuilt the M/C in situ.

The upper M/C nut is easy to remove; for the lower I had to use two wobble bar extensions plus a straight extension through the port-hole.

As the pipe was rusty at the connection to the flexible hose I decided to renew both of these as well.
Almost the only place on the B's underside fully protected from leaking engine oil is the threaded end of the flexible pipe. Unable to move it with spanners, in the end I cut off the flexible hose, put a 1/2 " drill up through the fitting. Kept going, with hydraulic fluid coated swarf falling into my sleeve until the metal pipe fell off. Then cut the remainder out in small pieces with a junior hacksaw.

I hope the dear next owner [DNO] is making a note of all the care, attention and money I'm lavishing on his car.

Vic
V Todman

This thread was discussed between 09/04/2004 and 12/04/2004

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