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MG MGB Technical - Clutch pipe removal
Shaun and I have the brake pipes replaced and now have brakes.
But we can't get the Clutch pipe out on our 1972 B.
Before we do any damage what is the best way to get the line off from the master cylinder and at the other end by the starter. Both places are tight for space open to others experience and advice.
Thanks in advance.
Bruce and Shaun
|First remove the engine ...|
Seriously, the master end is easy, just push out the rubber blanking plug that is behind both banjo unions and access it from inside the cabin. The slave end is a real pain. Will removing the starter give more space? I gave up when doing an optional replacement of the flex hose on a pals car, I can't recall seeing that would make things easier but you never know. I may have been blinded by the fact that we had just had the engine out and back in to replace the clutch, only to find that the slave seal then failed.
|I too have been stymied by that one nut and as I remember, just gave up after a time. one possibility if it is absolutely necessary to remove the nut is to get the proper sized open end wrench and have a machine shop put a 90° in it just behind the jaws. This should make it possible to get the wrench on the nut, the only remaining problem being able to turn the wrench. Another (possibly more practical) approach would be a crow's foot head of the appropriate size for a socket wrench. Cheers - Dave|
Attack the slave end from underneath the car. A 1/2" open ended spanner should do the trick. To remove the hose I cut a 15/16" (I think)open ended spanner in half, so that it could be swung, again from underneath.
|If you are replacing the metal pipe then the easiest way of undoing the bottom end is to cut the pipe and drop a 7/16 socket down on a long extension to undo the union nut.|
Then use an appropriate socket to undo the flex pipe locking nut - you may need to clamp the pipe end underneath with mole grips.
|Chris at Octarine Services|
|Paul, David, Herb and Chris,|
Thanks to all of you for your input.
We have gotten the pipe out with limited aggravation thanks to your input.
Had to remove all the electrical connections from the starter and then started the flair fitting with the flair nut wrench but had to go to an open ended 7/16 to continue loosening. This is the point when the pipe broke off just above the nut so went to a 6 point socket on long extension.
Next step was to pop out the rubber plug behind master go to a 5/8 socket on long extension with a swivel joint to remove the banjo bolt to get the upper end off.
will let you know how the install goes.
Bruce and Shaun
This thread was discussed between 12/09/2010 and 16/09/2010
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