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MG MGB Technical - Crank Pulley Bolt Removal

Well I stopped the oil leak at the tappets but another has been found. Looks like it is from the timing cover area (feel like the kid with his finger in the dike).
I have found some info in the archive on removing the crank pully bolt but have 1 other question.
It says(posted 11 Nov 02 and ref. John Twist's AMBG article)"put a socket on the nut and rotate the breaker bar until it stops on the left inner fender......."
My question is; "Is that(innner fender) as you face the car from the front(passenger side) or left side (driver's side) as you are in the car?"
Kind of a dumb question but don't want to screw anything up.
Joe
Joe Fabian

No dumb questions. It's always assumed "as you sit in the car". My only addition to the breaker bar tip is to wrap the end of the breaker bar with an old towel as not to scratch anything. Whether its a beater or museum piece, deep scratches start rust. I have used the breaker bar and it works!
Paul Hanley

Dittos. A breaker bar, with a cloth over the bar and/or pulley is a winning combo. I do remember being surprised at the amount of slop in the pulley when removing the bolt - you really just need to wail on it (cautiously!), or else jam something in the starter. Hopefully all will go well.
snake

Since you're trying to remove the bolt, I'd guess the left inner fender is behind the right headlight. Sometimes the left/right side designation is reversed in the engine bay - sort of a grey area between the radiator and firewall.

Assuming the crank bolt has a right hand thread (I know Chevys are) you'd want to turn the bolt counter clockwise as viewed from the front to loosen it. Try cutting a piece of wood to fit between the flywheel teeth and the driveway/floor to prevent the crank from turning (if it's a problem). A cheater pipe put over your breaker bar will add length and give you more leverage if you need it.
Glenn

Glenn,

No, the driver's side (US) you put the socket and bar on then hit the starter to spin the engine which goes clockwise viewed from the front, so the bar hits the driver's side chassis rail and spins the bolt out.
Chris at Octarine Services

Easiest is an air impact tool. Worth the investment.

Tom
Tom

Chris, that's an interesting technique. I'd be hesitant to try it.
Glenn

There is no drama it comes loose at the first touch of the starter, Denis
DENIS

Works a treat.

Fit socket to nut, wrap a rag or two around the end of the bar, and turn engine clockwise by hand untill the end of the bar is agaunst something substantial and there is no slack.

A couple of quick blips with the starter is usually enough.

Ian F

Ian Fraser

How to remove the crank bolt in 8 easy steps:

1. Replace your rear axle seals.
2. Replace those leaking wheel cylinders.
3. Clean the oil from the rear brake linings.
4. Rig up the handbrake so that it actually works.
5. Replace those weak U-joints you've been neglecting.
6. Set the handbrake. Leave the car in fourth gear.
7. Rent an 800-pound gorilla. Give him the breaker bar.
8. Have the gorilla turn the bolt counter-clockwise.

You could also just blip the starter and be done with it, and spend the time drinking beer. As you can tell, I have been doing a lot of this.

Best of luck with it!
Sam

Thanks all (Sam-I like the beer idea..)
One other question. What is the deal with the lock tab? Any tricks on bending it up? How about installing afterward?
I think I have it bent up enough to remove the nut but not sure. How far up does it need to be bent from its current 90 degrees on the nut (just a bit or totally off the nut and flat)?
The test will be tomorrow afternoon, that's when the 800 # gorilla arrives (hope I have enough bananas).
Joe
Joe Fabian

Joe. Like Tom, I prefer to use a pneumatic impact wrench. I have attempted a number of other methods over the years, including all of those suggested above. For me, the impact wrench is the easyist to use and has the least chance of damaging other parts. It does, however, require that you remove the radiator to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt.

As to the lock tab. Good question. I took an old cold chisel and ground the end until it formed about a 30 degree angle. This means one "flat" face and the other face having a 30-45 degree bevel on it. The lip, or sharp edge, is placed along the bolt and the tool is hit with a large hammer (but gently) to pry the edge of the lock tap up from its fit on the bolt head. Then, a flat headed piece of scrap steel is used to bend the lock tap back flat. Then, install the socket and give it a couple of taps with the hammer to make sure that everything is free and the lock tab fully deformed back to its original shape.

Lock tabs "should" be replaced with a new one everytime. If, however, the original is not badly damaged or cracked in the area of the bend, I have seen people re-use them. The times I have done this (because I did not have a new one available and needed to get the car on the road), I have used a couple of drops of blue LocTite on the bolt threads. None ever caused a problem. However, I still prefer to use a new tab, when available. I would never consider using a tab that had cracks when removed.

When deforming the new lock tab, use the modified cold chisel to get it started bending upwards, then the scrap steel piece to fully deform it up against the bolt. Les
Les Bengtson

So, numerous possibilities to put this bolt out ; but after the job, how to fix the crankshaft to torque this bolt at the good value ?
Arthur


Arthur

Put it in 4th and the rear wheels on the ground.
Paul Hunt

Actually you don't NEED to undo the locktab at all - it is only locked to the pulley by a tiny depression in the pulley and will spin out with no effort.

In fact you just need to be able to get the socket on the bolt so either bend it out of the way and then hammer the socket down or just hammer the socket down!!

Chris at Octarine Services

Thanks ,
Got it off. FYI, I held the breaker bar down to the pasenger side inner fender (not driver's), had the car cranked for a sec and bolt was free.
Another question for the minds,
Any secrets, hints, etc on removing a baked on gasket? Looks like this gasket (timing cover one) has been on forever and most of it is baked on the engine. Don't want to use screw driver, chisel etc to get it off. Any suggetions?
Joe
Joe Fabian

Joe a good flat paint scraper works well Denis
DENIS

Wire brush in an electric drill or angle grinder - will remove gasket, rust and carbon from both the front plate and the timing cover.
Chris at Octarine Services

Joe,The reason you put the breaker bar on the drivers side(U.S.) is so that you don't have to hold the bar.Think about it.
Franklyn Estes

Thanks all for the info. stillsee a few small drops of oil under the car. Need to see what else it may be. Already did the timing cover gasket, the tappet cover gaskets, the valve cover, etc. I need to check to see if the oil plug on the rear of the manifold is still there. Franklyn, I had it on the driver's side and the bolt did not come loose. It was only after we moved the bar to the pass. side the bolt came loose, (quickly and easily).
Joe Fabian

Joe Did you put the bar on from the top or from under the car? If you put the braker bar in from the top left (looking from the front) thats what it would do "break something" Denis
DENIS

Denis,

I usually leave the bar about 4 inches above the chassis rail so that it hits the rail after the engine starts turning - the shock breaks free even the tightest of bolts and it doesn't damage anything.
Chris at Octarine Services

Chris The reason for my input was because members (maybe non mechanical minded members) will read this and if the bar is placed in the wrong place could hurt themselves or at least do some damage, But I do the same as you. DENIS
DENIS

This thread was discussed between 22/05/2004 and 28/05/2004

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.