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MG MGB Technical - DCOE hesitates on acceleration
The MG from Hell seems to be doing well for its second year in a row now. The only real problem is a hesitation when accelerating hard. The car has a Weber sidedraft, and other than this fault, it starts, idles and runs great. Is there a way to either increase of modify the "shot" from the acceletaor pump on these carbs? Pete |
Pete |
Pete I'm no expert with DCOE's but if there's an external linkage you may be able to get an earlier shot even if you can't increase the volume. Dave |
Dave Wellings |
In a word: Yes. ======== 1) - look at the "Pump Jets" (also sometimes called: "Accelerator Pump Jets"). On DCOE's, they work as a high-speed power device and inject a stream of raw fuel directly into the throttle bores during sudden jumps into warp speeds. They're located undeneath the brass screw plugs (with rubber "O" rings") on top of each throttle bore. Be sure that the rubber "O" rings that are installed underneath each brass plug are in absolute 100% condition. When you stomp on the gas pedal, this area becomes momentarily pressurized with fuel. Any leak here will goof with the metering of fuel being sent to the Pump Jets and can cause a high speed stumble or hesitation. Look for any signs of dried fuel or "varnish" in this area. Sometimes, this leak is a very, very tiny stream, and on a warm engine it can often evaporate soon before you can notice it unless you are looking at it very intently in strong daylight (use googles for this!!!). Also, be sure that the tiny aluminum washers underneath each pump jet are actually there (many times these are lost and not noticed) and are not worn, split, or squashed flat. For stock or hot-street MGB's = 50 For very hot street MGB's = 55 For more radical, track MGB's = 60 ========= 2) - look for the "Fuel Chamber Inlet Valve with Exhaust Orifice". This is also sometimes called the: "Accelerator Pump Inlet Valve". This item (one per carb) is located at the bottom of the main fuel chamber. It controls the amount of fuel that is available to the Pump Jets. The "Exhaust Orifice" is a tiny bleed hole that is drilled on the side of this valve - and it is this that does the "regulating" work. When you stomp your foot on the gas pedal, a tiny ball valve inside the Inlet Valve closes and some of the fuel is pushed directly to the Pump Jets - while simultaneously - some of the fuel is also allowed to bleed back into the fuel chamber through this bleed hole. Generally, on all MGB's (stock, street, track) = 50 You can increase the volume of fuel available to the Pump Jets by gradually swapping to smaller bleed hole numbers (ie: 40, 30, etc.). A lesser used item is the "Closed" type of Fuel Chamber Inlet Valve. This one has no small hole drilled on it's side, and is unmarked (no size I.D. stamping). This fella makes all of the fuel in the fuel pump well available to the Pump Jets for a maximum volume of fuel shot. Of course, when you use this one...your car may seem happy...but you could also be throwing money away in wasted fuel each and every time you goose the gas pedal. ====== 3) - Lastly, you can also change the total gross volume of the shot of fuel going to the Pump Jets by experienting with various lengths of Pump Rod(s) and Pump Spring(s). The Pump Rod regulates the amount of fuel in the pump well. The Pump Spring governs the force applied to the Accelerator Pump Piston - which is responsible for pushing the fuel through all the passageways in the accelerator circuit. "If It Ain't Broke...Don't Fix It". In 99.999% of cases, the "stock" Pump Rod and Pump Spring that was installed in the carb at the Weber factory is more than adequate to work in our case - just be sure that all of it is working (no binding, no worn or broken parts, etc.). |
Daniel Wong |
Daniel: WOW, thanks a lot. That should keep me busy for a while. I do know that it is going lean for a while because if I stopmp it and keep it down, it wants to rattle until the rpm goes up and the torque load comes down a bit. Plugs look good when I pull them. The carb is in good shape with no apparent leaks. I've been told that webers are never that good on transition.I have a hard time believeng that since they are so adjustable. Pete |
Pete |
"Low speed gasp" is well known Weber problem , all you can do is ensure your acclerator pump is working well . This is where the SUs score as a street carb. |
S Best |
Besides tweeking with the Pump Jets and Fuel Chamber Inlet Valve... You might try hooking up a vacuum gauge to your intake manifold while road testing. Whenever there's gonna be a DCOE put on an MGB for the road, I tend to favor a smaller size choke as well as a cam with more lift and only a conservative amount of added valve overlap. This helps keep the manifold vacuum up and results in a more "crisp" throttle response. 45DCOE's have rather large throttle plates and when you aggressively stomp on the gas there's often a big, stall-inducing drop in manifold vacuum. Sometimes, this can = 0 Hg, and it takes a healthy shot of fuel from the Pump Jets in order to force the engine to recover from this (on DCOE's, this shot of fuel is not reliant on manifold vacuum). On my own car, whenever I stomp on the gas, the vacuum needle will bounce to 0 (zero) for only a millisecond, and then quickly rise to 4 - 8 Hg as I transition to Warp Speed. After that, I can back off the throttle a bit and hold the needle at around 15 Hg while leveling off at a steady cruise. Sometimes you can minimize the part-throttle stall by advancing the ignition timing a bit. This will also help you gain a few Inches of Hg in manifold vacuum and lessen the part-throttle stall. Of course, there are limits to this, as this can also induce pinging and knocking, etc. if the ignition timing is advanced too far. |
Daniel Wong |
This thread was discussed between 19/06/2004 and 20/06/2004
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