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MG MGB Technical - Disconnecting Rear Shock Links

What is the secret for disconnecting the shock links from the rear shocks (besides the obvious - removing the nut). Both the shocks and the links are less that 5 years old so age should not be a factor.

Please help!

Thanks in advance for your assistance!

Mark Wasunyk
Mark Wasunyk

I don't know of any suitable puller for this job. It's a tapered shank and when I need to remove one I remove the shock and lay the shock arm on the anvil side of a heavy duty vise and hit the eye of the shock arm with a hammer. Usually one blow will break it loose. I'm sure someone will suggest something else, but the method I use is quick,it works and does not damage the link or the shock. FWIW, Clifton
Clifton Gordon

Clifton,

I might have mis-stated my question...what I need to know is how to disconnect the shock link from the rear shock arm. If I'm thinking correctly, the method you described is to remove the shock arm from the shock, am I right?

Thanks

Mark
Mark Wasunyk

Mark. No, Clifton is describing how to remove the drop link, the one that goes from the shock to the spring, from the shock arm. As he notes, it is a tapered fit, just like the tie rod ends. Often, a blow on the side of the piece that the tapered pin goes through will break the bond between the two. I seem to remember using a "pickle fork" type tie rod seperator my self last time I did this. But, it has been several years since I have had to perform this procedure. Two large screwdrivers, one on either side of the through pin might, if you hammered them upwards gently, break the bond between the drop link and shock arm. I believe I used that method several years ago when I had to replace a single drop link. But, it has been so long since I had to perform this operation, I do not recall exactly what methods I have used over the years. Why do you need to remove or replace them after only five years? Les
Les Bengtson

Thanks for the reply Les.

I'm swapping the banjo axle from my 75B (vintage racer going into retirement) into my 65B (vintage racer project). While the banjo axle was fitted in the 75 B, I had to use the longer shock links as opposed to the links for the early MGBs, thus necessitating the removal and replacement of the shock links.

Mark W.

Mark Wasunyk

Mark, When I have faced that problem I removed the complete shock assembly by removing the two shock mounting bolts. The shock arm stays on the shock. As Les mentioned a pickle fork may work. Clifton
Clifton Gordon

Mark. Sounds like an interesting project. Are you racing with VARA or some other organization? Les
Les Bengtson

Les,

It's been quite interesting. Several years ago I purchased a 75 MGB (that hadn't been run for years) in street trim with the goal of turning the car into a vintage racer with the VSCDA (Vintage Sports Car Drivers Association, www.vscda.org). I raced the 75 for few years then I burned a hole in the #4 piston, over-revved on a downshift.

With vintage racing, several of the groups are quite particular about the year of the vehicle entered (normally the cutoff is 72 or 73). With this in mind, I decided to purchase a more "vintage legal" car that would be legal in all vintage race organizations so I bought a 65 MGB from the BBS. Most of the parts that were fitted to the 75 are being swapped except for the parts that are rubber bumper/chrome bumper specific.

If you go to www.vancourtmotors.com and click on Racecars, you'll see photos of both of the projects. My cars are the 1965 MGB and the 1975 MGB. The 65 MGB has a fresh paintjob and the desire to be ready for the big MG gathering at Watkins Glen in September.

Mark

Mark Wasunyk

There are Lever type ball joint & tie rod separator tools that work splendidly, and don't screw up things like a pickle fork - not allowed in my shop! I have one which is a Rover factory tool. You can rig something like it. There is a bar about 4 in long, 5/8T by 1 deep. At one end is a step about the height of the projecting stud, that is the fulcrum. In the middle is a cross bar with a 3/8 hole on either side. Through this goes a long U bolt, which would be around the shock arm. You tighten the u bolt with the non stepped end of the main bar on the stud, out it comes. A serious C lamp, 4" bar, and a spacer the height of the stud would work fine. But for single time use it is probably easier to do as Clifton says.
FRM
http://www.usachoice.net/gofanu
FR Millmore

Like Clifton I have had to remove the complete damper, drop-link and bottom plate from the car to be able to replace the damper. I had to cut part-way through the nut then use a chisel as the nut was siezed to the bolt and was just turning in the rubber socket. If you can get the nut off the bolt may be seized in the arm, although a clamp may press that out.
Paul Hunt

Hey Mark

I was running an MGB w/ VARA and HSR-West out in the SW US. I'll need to jump over to VSCDA's site to check them out- maybe go to the August event to get a feel for the group.

Race car's still in California :( , won't get it up to Groveland until Christmas
greg fast

This thread was discussed between 28/07/2004 and 30/07/2004

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