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MG MGB Technical - Do I need to replace all my shocks?

I have one front and one rear shock that are leaking. Do I need to replace both front and rear shocks or can I just replace the ones that are leaking?

Thanks

Mike
Mike

These shocks pretty much work or don't work. You can simply replace the leaky ones or have them rebuilt. Just make sure the valves are the same in the new ones.
Steve Simmons

It's advisable to replace them all. Shocks wear, sometimes undectable, over time and mismatched shocks can give very quirky handling. I always replace shocks in pairs and so does every mechanic I know. There are exceptions like when an almost new shock fails - yes it happens - but when they're worn and used as much as yours probably are, the smartest thing to do is to replace them all.
Mike Magee


My local motor factors only sell what it reckons are shocks that are rebuilt and up-rated at the same time so you have to replace them in pairs to match them. Bit of a con, but there we are.
C Beswick

World Wide Rebuilt Parts, http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/ , offer a very good rebuilt lever shock. I have them on my GT and many others have had very good luck with them. Just to refresh the info on this BBS about their shocks, I offer a restatement of World Wide's Pres., Peter Caldwell's comments describing their rebuild process and what makes it different.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Firstly, pricing ..... for the MGB - fronts $59.95 + 40.00 core Rears 47.95 + 30.00 core {these prices may have changed since I last posted this, pls. be sure to check with WW first, before ordering! rkm}

"Secondly, below is some info I sent to the Blue Grass Healey Club on

"How World Wide Approaches Rebuilding Lever Shocks...


First. What fails in a lever shock? Almost all of the (non-traumatic) failures result from lack of oil in the shock. The manuals always recommend Checking or topping-up your shox in various intervals 3000 miles or so. Why? Because they leak!.. what a surprise! They don't leak just because they are British, they leak by design (now there's a bumper sticker).

"Speaking here of the rear shox... the shaft that protrudes from the body of the shock is rotating in the body without a bearing. To ensure sufficient lubrication there is often a channel or groove in the shaft bore. At the outside there is a rubber packing retained by a thin metal washer. A packing needs some lubrication to work at all and the weeping of oil acts as a deterrent to dirt getting in. Dirt getting in will score the shaft at the seal area hastening the demise of the packing and wearing the bearing surface in the body.

The solution that all of us rebuilders use is to machine the body and install a bearing. We use Delrin, others use bronze. Bronze requires oil, Delrin doesn't.

"We also machine the body for a rotary oil seal (others don't) (in fact we use a double lip seal with dust excluder). One guy does use a rotary single lip seal and the others use several rubber washers held in place with a steel washer or two. To solve the pitted and scored shaft problem, others sand or grind the shaft down.(you don't need to be precise with rubber washers) We have manufactured for us, to our specs, stainless steel sleeves that allow us to have a 3 micron finish and consistent diameter and concentricity of the shaft. After many years, we have found this to be very reliable. Our shox don't leak.

"The process... step by step.

"Receive grimy old shock, tumble clean in a deburring/tumble cleaner. Glass bead blast entire shock. Disassemble.

Tumble and hot wash internals. Bead blast the rest of the arm.

"Machine for the bearing and for the seal.

"Wash again. Press in bearing and seal. Press on sleeve.

"Inspect and repair/replace as necessary the pistons and the valving.

"Reassemble components using all new hardware of proper thread and style. Fill with oil and bleed.

"Compare valving with NOS shock, adjust if necessary. Wash AGAIN.

"Paint 2 coats primer and 3 coats high heat black enamel. Date code and ship.

"There you have it.

"Peter Caldwell president. 800 362-1025"


"
Bob Muenchausen

I have never found that they leak by design, only when the seals have gone, which is time for replacement. I have had cars with these shocks for 30 years and used to check them at every service like the book sez, and they never needed topping-up, now I just don't bother. I've just replaced one on the V8 - because it started leaking and dripping on the floor - and they have done at least 70k with no topping-up. Because I 'spotted' the leak and investigated it straight away (neither of my Bs leak!) it was still functional several hundred miles later when I got a round tuit. I have always replaced just the faulty one, and never had a problem with balance afterwards. There should also be no problem getting standard rebuilt units, although I am well-off for suppliers having half-dozen within a few miles.
Paul Hunt

Paul, I try to lay low, but I feel I have to respond. The comments graciously quoted by Bob M are perhaps a bit glib, in hindsight. (and they've been passed around a lot more than I'd have thought) When I said that the seals .."leak by design.", I was lightly making reference to the often quoted maintenance schedule of checking and or topping up the lever shocks. My statement is based on the belief that if the packings aren't leaking, then the shocks wont need checking as there is no other way for oil to leave them. If the shocks are kept reasonably clean so that dirt and grit aren't allowed to work on the sealing surface, then the life expectancy is great. If the shocks aren' leaking, they will last a long, long time.... longer, IMHO, than inexpensive tube shocks sold as "upgrades".
Peter Caldwell

Too right on the tubulars, Peter. The PO of my V8 did this change at the rear and one started leaking after about 3k. Couldn't get a matching one so I had to replace the pair at about 120 sterling, as opposed to about 10 Sterling for one lever-arm! Since on their own they add nothing except expense I'm on the verge of converting it back to lever-arms before they fail again.
Paul Hunt

Peter,

thanks for the clarification/restatement of your thoughts. I have kept that quote for just this purpose as there are many people who need some background as to why your product is different, perhaps, from any of the others offered. Most folks, I find, appreciate some discussion of the real differences, even tho a concensus of general BBS opinion may indicate a favorite.

If you would like to send me a restatement, I will replace the file I have from our previous correspondence. Newbies need to know why the regulars here like the things and suppliers they do, so I post info like yours from time to time with the intention to keep everyone up to speed.
Bob Muenchausen

This thread was discussed between 29/02/2004 and 03/03/2004

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