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MG MGB Technical - Dual Gauge Capillary Tube

The capillary tube for my dual gauge is not attached to anything between the clip on the bulkhead and the point it enters the cylinder head. As far as I remember, it's always been like that.

I've had a look at 'Original MGB' by Clausager, but I can't see clearly in any of the engine bay shots where it should be secured to the engine.

The Moss catalogue shows a clip and bracket - items 35 & 36 on the diagram - but again, no clues as to where they should be.

It seems like a good idea that it should be supported. midgets have two brackets securing the capillary tube to the engine, one to the rearmost cylinder head stud and one to the rear dynamo bolt.

Does anyone know?



Dave O'Neill 2

Mine has never been supported. It is coiled above the alternator and I have used a zip-tie to strap it onto the alternator. Hasn't given any bother in the last 20 years.
Mike Howlett

Yep, I've seen lots as Mike describes and no issues--but
Dave, I 'think' that the bracket'36' mounts on the bottom heater tap stud and hangs straight down from it--The clip'35' clips into the bottom hole of the bracket and then the tube clips into it.
The tube should curl from the sender and 'roughly' follow the line of the edge of the headgasket , back through the clip on the heater tap bracket and then when level with the rear of the engine it coils to allow for engine movement and off to the clip on the bulkhead

willy






William Revit

Thanks Willy. I did wonder about the heater tap, as it’s about the only place it could go. Having said that, it’s difficult enough to get a spanner on that bottom screw, as it is. I took the heater tap off yesterday, as it’s completely blocked.
Dave O'Neill 2

I opted for a P-clip rather than spend £12 ($20 AUD) on a bracket and clip from Moss. The clip was slightly oversize, so I added a piece of washer tubing between the pipe and clip.


Dave O'Neill 2

Looks like a factory job Dave- nice job
William Revit

Some show another P-clip on the other side of the bulkhead screw that holds the oil gauge connector. Given that's only an inch or two from passing through the rubber grommet I don't think that's so 'important'. I have quoted 'important' a I've also seem some routed round the inner wing and straight across to the sender, no coil to absorb engine rock, and that didn't seem to be a problem either.

Incidentally replacement valves seem fatter and my 7/16" ring spanner doesn't fit the screw heads so I use a 1/4" drive socket with a square-section door handle spindle bent at 90 degrees as a driver.



paulh4

Paul

The valve bodies are definitely fatter than they used to be.

Good tip about the socket driver.
Dave O'Neill 2

Just need to fit a spring and ball-bearing to the short end to stop the socket falling off :o)

Also fits seat runner stop-block nuts if you need to get them off without taking the seat out.


paulh4

Incidentally hex-socket cap-screws and an Allen key could be used, but the short end of the key may need trimming down.
paulh4

This thread was discussed between 08/10/2022 and 10/10/2022

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