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MG MGB Technical - Engine/gearbox out!

Advice needed...the hoist on its way, no more reading and thinking about it. It's going to happen...but wait a second or five hundred...where does one attach the hoist to the engine? Should one use straps or chains? Around the engine or where else? Pics on the net show 2 thin chains connected by bolts onto somewhere on the head/valves - is this really enough for 200 kg plus...
In other words help!
/Moss
Moss

Moss, they're probably my pics you're looking at. I used a Clarke load leveller which came complete with four chains. It's rated at 500kg and I assume this includes the supplied chains. I've lifted two MGB engines with g/box and o/d no problem.

I attached two of the chains to the rear of the engine, using the top two fixing bolts which hold the engine backplate on. I had to fit slightly longer bolts to do this, bolting thru a chain link, plus a large washer to clamp the link.

At the front, I attached one chain to the alternator rear mounting hole (alternator removed) and the other chain to the front cylinder head stud (more large washers required).
Brian Shaw

I am sure others can tell you the the shear and tensile strength of the bolts but 200kg (@440 lbs) isn't really that much. It's about the weight of a couple of construction workers.
I once pulled my 4 cylinder engine and forgot to undo a couple of bolts. I had the front wheels almost off the ground. I was using a 4x4 across the lower chord of 2x4 roof truss's @ mid span of a the 20' truss.
I always used the rocker cover bolts without a problem.
MGBV81

Thanks alot - Now I am beginning to understand the practicals - rocker cover bolts, engine backplate bolt holes and alternator bracket on the engine - I need to get hold of a leveller...
Moss

Tensile strength! Steel has an ultimate tensile strength of approx 30 tons/square inch, that's about 5/8"Dia. BMC lifting brackets were screwed to rocker cover fixings........5/16"Dia. Plenty strong enough BUT can be bent, as I found out once!! I made a bracket for the top back plate bolts and another to replace the water pump and slung the engine via 2 short chains with a home made load leveller, But have done it previously without the leveller, it just makes it easier when on your own!
Allan Reeling

Moss-
Removing the fan from the engine is a good idea if you are using a mobile engine hoist, as on some types of mobile engine hoist, the fan can catch on it and be damaged. Place the base of the mobile engine hoist as close as possible to the engine bay and do not extend the arm of the mobile engine hoist any further than is necessary. Use the rocker arm studs as lift points only if you are certain that they are Original Equipment items as some of the replacement studs nowadays are of dubious quality. Most failures will occur as a load is applied at an angle to an attachment point, so make those attachments strong, or, better yet, make them nonexistent by using a sling. Although some use a length of chain enclosed in a bicycle inner tube, I prefer to lift the engine with a strap of heavy nylon webbing. Not only is it strong and easy to undo knots from, but its greater surface area in contact with the engine block makes slippage less probable to occur and it is less likely to damage paint. Pass the strap between the engine and its backplate, cross it over above the rocker arm cover and loop it under the coolant pump, and then tie the ends off with a simple square knot above the engine. With the hook placed behind the knot, it will not slip backwards, plus the square knot is self-tightening and will not slip either. Always remember the cardinal rule to never, ever, put any part of your body anywhere below a suspended engine.
Stephen Strange

Good advice from Steve. However if you want to use a load leveller (very handy if you are doing this on your own) you may need to make up two shorter pieces of webbing. I shall be attempting this in the next month or so, so am reading this with interest.
Steve Church

Moss, make yourself a lifting bar, like the one in the picture,with this you can take the engine/engine&gearbox out on your own,these bars work very well on all A.and B. series engines,awell as the FWD ones, which they are excellent for,as you can see it tips the engine for removal and refitting,when you have the box off the engine if you turn the lifting bar round the other way and refit it, it holds the engine level, A.T


andy tilney

Moss, I use this lifting bar that a friend of me built. It fixes to the bolts that hold the valve cover and the angle of the drive train can be adjusted with the holes along the top of the bar.
And another tip for reinstalling the drivetrain: lift the rear of the car with a trolley jack at least 30 cm off the ground and the drivetrain will go in nearly by itself. This way I was able to install the drivetrain into my car singlehanded in less than an hour (plus fitting all accessories of course!)

BTW: in the upcoming feb-issue of Practical classics you will find a report about my full restoration after a really bad accident....

Jörn


Joern-M

And here is a close up of the lifting bar.
Of course you can also screw this onto the engine with the valve cover in place.


Joern-M

Andy

Your lifting brackets seem to be bending a bit, or is it the studs?

I've bought a load-leveller from Machine Mart. I just need to decide on the best attachment points.
Dave O'Neill2

Dave, I see what you are saying, but nothing is bending, as there is no rocker cover fitted the lifting eyes can slide on the rocker cover fixing bolts, which allows them to sit at the right angle without bending anything, A.T
andy tilney

I wrapped a good-condition tow-rope under the back and the front of the engine and over a hook. Tested the twang of each rope to make sure they were even before I took the strain. I kept some of the load on the ropes, the rest on a work-bench while I worked on the engine and clutch, so the angle of the engine would be correct for re-installation, and it went back onto the gearbox without any trouble.
PaulH Solihull

Thanks for all the tips everyone - I am a bit apprehensive re:chain on the rocker cover method. Nylon straps with eyes at each end appeal to me. The place I've ordered the hoist sell these as well - capable of bearing 2 tonnes - it says on the label!! But I am still going to need chains for the straps to leveller connection....I'll update when getting started next week. Thanks again everyone
/Moss
Moss

Thanks for the close up photo Joern. I am going to make one myself. I have pulled engines out in the past using brackets fitted to the rocker cover bolts and never had any problems.
N Coole

I have pulled hundreds of engines in 40 + years of working on MG's I always put a chain under the rocker shaft between 3 & 4 cyl's if lifting the engine & gearbox & between 2 & 3 if lifting engine only. When refitting you just have to lift the rear of the gearbox a bit to get it above the cross member. When refitting the engine only you put a large screwdriver in a port & twist a bit to the left to line up the bell housing bolts. Use a No 3 phillips screwdrive to line up the holes.
Garth
Garth Bagnall

The hoist has arrived - the engine and gearbox extraction project begins. A feeling of tripadation is creeping up behind me! More very soon
/Moss


Moss

Moss, I think you will be fine. Experiment with the hoist/crane. It lifts slowly and with control. Work out your strapping or chains,and go for it. Mike
J.M. Doust

No going back now - the first silly question. Draining the coolant - the Haynes mentions removing the drain plug from the engine block (later models - Mine is 1977 18V engine)

But where is the drain plug on the block - cannot seem to find it.

Any suggestions or is it really needed

/Moss
Moss

It's at the back of the block on the lefthand side.

You may find it is silted up and no water will come out, in which case you need to loosen the silt with a screwdriver or a twist drill.
Dave O'Neill2

Hi Dave, thanks for response - when you say left hand side I presume you mean passanger side (UK cars). There is the head of a nut to the right of the oil pressure relief valve nut on the block - is this the affore mentioned drain plug?
/Moss
Moss

Yes, UK passenger side.

I've just had a look at mine and it is just above the oil pressure relief valve.

See here...

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=188

It is item no. 10 on the drawing, although it is labelled as a washer!
Dave O'Neill2

Thanks again Dave - spot on - a washer with a tap under it then :)
/Moss
Moss

Just taken me 3 hours to get the exhaust to manifold bolts of - one of them bent off! And now the radiator surround bolts to frame of radiator are giving me problems - one just won't wind out, think the thread is gone so just turning round but wont move out. Umm! Here are a few pics...
/Moss


Moss

So now everything almost done before extraction - last bit to do - the gearbox mountings. This is not good. Half the bolts are missing and the upper and lower v-shaped brackets are not there. And the tie rod is bent...and alot of oil on the gearbox casing!
/Moss
Moss

What is the minimum height (ie garage ceiling)required using the crane to extract engine and gearbox? (Appreciate it depends on levellers, loops etc!)
Michael Beswick

Moss - did you get anything out of the block drain? Most references to that I've seen say it is impossible to clear from the outside as it is generally blocked with original casting debris, can only be done from the top i.e. head off. Couldn't get anything out of mine.
PaulH Solihull

Most odd!
On my planet, the block drain always seems to be on the RH side of the engine at the rear, just below the oil pressure take-off. I have the idea that that is the driver's side in the UK.

Yes, this passage is frequently blocked with rust/sludge/or casting debris. The hole for the tap/plug is in a small pocket at the bottom of the water jacket. Result is that you can only go in about 1/4-3/8" past the bottom of the threads before you have to poke upwards. It is generally possible to do this with a stiff bent wire. But I have met engines with most of the jacket behind #4 blocked by melted core sand!

The plug by the oil relief is for the cross drilling of the main oil gallery from the pump delivery/relief valve over to the pipe/gauge delivery point.

FRM
FR Millmore

Re: drain plug, have not yet looked any further - decided to wait til engine out. Have emptied the coolant from bottom hose of radiator - almost 4.5 litres came out this way - have the rear of the car jacked up so this seemed to help.

Other issues have popped up as mentioned below re: some gearbox mounting to crossmember bolts and both tie brackets missing and one bolt is bent and I cannot seem to move it at first try...have a spare couple of hours tomorrow so will try again. And there is an oil leak somewhere - possibly behind the timing chain - oil seems to ooze out there and run under engine to gearbox - the tie-rod to gearbox crossmember is soaked in oil.

The ceiling height in my workshop is 1.90 m.

One thing is certain when I am finished everything will be as it should be again - the po has taken many short cuts. Lots of things becoming apparant -for example, the top two bolts on the backplate of the engine are missing and as are 3 bellhouse to backplate bolts...

/Moss
Moss

Bolts mising.... reminds me of my first rebuilt engine, a Mini with an 1100 motor fully balanced etc. went like a bomb. But after putting the engine back together I found several nuts and bolts, They must have been spares!!!!! Mike
J.M. Doust

<<On my planet, the block drain always seems to be on the RH side of the engine at the rear, just below the oil pressure take-off>>

Hmm, looking at the Moss drawing again, it seems to duplicate 'tap and washer' on both sides of the engine. The plug on the LH side certainly appears to be in the region of the oil gallery.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=188#10
Dave O'Neill2

"Hmm, looking at the Moss drawing again, it seems to duplicate 'tap and washer' on both sides of the engine. The plug on the LH side certainly appears to be in the region of the oil gallery."
Nope. FRM is correct. On the drivers side on a RHD car. Clearly the case in the thread diagram offered. Look at that again, 'item 9 Plug-cylinder block drain', clearly on LHS of engine viewed from the front.
Roger T

Moss-thanks ref workshop height.

Ref Missing bolts: Learned a new expression when my regular car was having major surgery last week. "Wee Bolts" The expression the mechanic uses as he tosses the "extra" bolts over his shoulder. Strangely tho, my car apparently did not have any wee bolts......
Michael Beswick

Moss,
I'm following this with interest as I shall be following in your footsteps shortly and taking the engine/gearbox out of my '68 roadster. Is anyone aware of a definitive list of things to do/disconnect before lifting the engine? There's bound to be something I forget that prevents it coming out first time.
Steve Church

Hi Steve, I'm using Haynes and Brooklands workshop manuals as a guide. The spare couple hours I thought I had today have disappeared due to work commitments so behind again (yes, I know everybody - I'm slow!) but there we are...
Re list-only the annoying bolt on the gearbox mounting (might have to drill it out) and disconnecting the starter motor leads left to do then ready to remove engine and gearbox.

Re usefull experience tips-I bought a pair of mechanic gloves with some type of special grip stuff coating. These have been well worth it as they grip the cold metal (my workshop has no heating!) and keep hands warm. I bought an leveller for the hoist, can already work out this is going to be very usefull. And bought a cheap thermal overall to keep me warm when I'm crawling around under the car. Obvious stuff but one does'nt realise this until one has tried without. as I did last winter.

The only problem so far has been the realisation that I want to do more whilst the engine/gearbox is out and have no more time to do so - the car has to go for its mot no later than 3. January 2012 - I forgot about this! Rather silly of me - at least it will have veteran status from then on though...

More soon
/Moss
Moss

Moss-
Re no heat, but assuming you do have electricity:
A couple of clip on lamps with sunlamp or heatlamp bulbs give you spectacular light and excellent local heat. I had a couple mounted on portable telescoping bases, in addition to the clip on type. I used to have a big truck that I needed to work on outside at night in below zero (F) weather; two or three of these made it a pleasure (relatively!). You want two or three overlapping pools of light from above and behind you, so that you can be in the light without casting heavy shadows on the work area. If you keep your tools in the lighted area, they stay warm too. In a smallish garage, this arrangement will also heat the space up quite nicely. It is amazing how much more work you can get done if you are not frozen!

FRM
FR Millmore

Had'nt thought of the lamps...good idea...off to the DIY shop in the morning...:)
/Moss
Moss

Lamps, bits of old carpet, old towels that we meant to throw out. They all become useful in the workshop, or outside garage. When one actually starts to lift the engine, pause every so often, say a couple of strokes of the hydraulic ram, see if just the engine moves or whether the whole car moves. Then you will know something major is still connected. look at all cables and wires, are they loose etc Good luck. Mike
J.M. Doust

<<Look at that again, 'item 9 Plug-cylinder block drain', clearly on LHS of engine viewed from the front>>

Indeed, but as I said, the drain tap and washer - items 8 & 10 - are duplicated on both sides, but on the left they are referring to the plug in the oil gallery.
Dave O'Neill2

Only one engine drain and that is on the distributor side of the engine. On the other side, you have an oil galley bolt and underneath that you have the oil pressure relief valve and its capnut. RAY
rjm RAY

A Happy Christams to all....and on 23rd December the engine and gearbox was extracted! A minor mishap in the process - the left hand side (when sitting in the car) engine mount rubber snapped off the mount on the chassis rail - ok, not a big issue, just replace, however, the steering rod sits under this very snuggly - so anyone any quick fix ideas on how to loosen the rod enough so that I can unbolt the nut on underside of the mount without having to remove the steering?

(Info - Only 2 bolts were holdning the gearbox on the crossmember and one of these was bent and only half way in - there should be 6!! probably why so much vibration)
Make sure when doing this monster job that your garage floor is level - my hoist was on two wheels and tilting to one side at one stage due to my floor being uneven! A scary moment.


Moss

No quick fix possible - have to take the steering rod and rack out so that I can get to the nut underneath.
/Moss
Moss

"my hoist was on two wheels and tilting to one side at one stage due to my floor being uneven! A scary moment."
UNACCEPTABLE!
On re-installing this must NOT apply.
I hear (and can relate to) where you are comming from, but please, never again. Once is enough, for each one of us.
Regards
Roger
Roger T

Roger, thanks for your concern. I can assure you that the situation will NOT occur again...

On another point - does anyone know what '13' refers to on the cylinder head - by the valves - see picture below...
/Moss


Moss

Can you not drill out the center of the bolt through the plate?
darnoc31

I am using a metal grinder to remove the bolt on the side facing upwards (the rubber is manufactured around this) then it will just pop out the other side - but still need to remove the steering rod and rack - just need a new disk to complete the job tommorow.

Have now seperated the gearbox and engine - the release bearing carbon had disintergrared/warn away to nothing - just bare metal where there should be carbon. Also one of the clutch bolts to the flywheel
was halfway out - could unwind with my fingers - on the good side no oil leaks from engine or gearbox in the bell-housing and the flywheel is in very good condition.
/Moss
Moss

It can be done by sticking the nut and washers to an open-ended spanner of suitable thickness, putting them into position, then turning the mount into them to get the nut started. When you have to start turning the nut it is a matter of turning the spanner over for each half-flat.

Having said that it is no big deal to disconnect the track-rod-ends from the steering arms, remove the bolt from the rack side of the UJ, remove the four rack to cross-member bolts, and pull the rack forwards. That way at least you can use a 16-point ring-spanner which is better if the nuts are rusted onto the stud - use copper-grease when refitting! If your rack shaft has the UJ bolt locating groove running all the way round the shaft, instead of just a notch, then mark the shaft to UJ alignment to get the steering wheel position and indicator cancelling correct on reassembly. My roadster is like that, but the V8 with the later energy-absorbing column has cut-outs in both column *and* rack shafts.

I've done it both ways in the past, probably wouldn't bother doing it in-situ again.
PaulH Solihull

Thanks for advice Paul - I have chosen the remove rack and rod methode...
Here's a pic of the release bearing with no carbon remaining!! No wonder it was screeching so much



Moss

Moss,

Good timing on your part. My release bearing had also run the carbon down but mine came out of the bell-housing in a large number of pieces. It too showed the edge wear as on yours. You must have been very close to losing the clutch change altogether.

Strangely mine had not produced any screeching when being used. It was failing to manage the reverse change without crunching though, and then just exploded. Fortunately I was almost home so minimum inconvenience.
Roger T

Roger, indeed, however, the inside of the bell - housing was 'carbon coated' with a few bits left over after disintergration ! - has taken me ages to clean it - horrible stuff - thank goodness for latex gloves AND rubber gloves combined...
/Moss
Moss

By the way anybody any idea on what the nummer '13' stamped on the top of the cylinder head means? See the pic below in my thread. Could it be the valve clearence? Although always thought it was supposed to be '15' thou.
/Moss
Moss

It probably meant something to the guys in the foundry.
Dave O'Neill2

Just checked a spare head I have - it has the number 30 where yours has the 13. Dave probably has it. Lost now in the mist of time probably.

Oh, the pieces I mentioned were those of the metal cup Moss. Also had the carbon mini-chunks and lots of dust as well.
Roger T

Moss,I replaced the carbon release bearing with one of the MGOC's roller bearing ones...........so far so good!!! Also, just take the rack off completely, you can then check it and the TRE's, out and re-pack with grease or oil as is your want.
You will also ease the fitting of the gearbox mounts by elongating the two holes in the crossmember brackets upwards and drilling two 15mm dia holes, in the cross member itself, to gain access to the nuts.
Allan Reeling

I used a roller bearing when I replaced the clutch many years ago. Quite soon after that it started wittering just as the pedal started to apply or remove pressure from it, and I started reading about pull-off springs to pull the bearing away from the cover plate and continually spinning the rollers causing wear and premature failure. The MGOC hadn't heard of either the problem or the pull-off spring at the time. Then I realised it was a waste of money, if you use the clutch properly (and don't fit a pinned roller bearing instead of a bonded) they should outlast the friction plate, and when I did next renew the clutch I was hardly going to leave an old bearing in their regardless of it being roller. I left it, and for many years things stayed the same, so I grew less concerned. Just this year I have noticed it has stopped wittering, so maybe it is about to fail! However some years ago I discovered the V8, and some midgets, have roller bearings as standard, without a pull-off kit, and don't suffer from any particular problem. Is it worth it? If you don't ride the clutch then probably not. I changed a clutch recently where the friction plate was down to the rivets but the release bearing had loads of life left as shown here, as the carbon material goes down inside the housing far more than it sticks out. Of course I'll use a roller for the V8 when that eventually needs doing, still going at 90k or more.


PaulH Solihull

I'm using a mandril which I bought with the clutch - very tight fit in the splines - have woken up this morning with the thought that could it be that I have been given the wrong clutch - to a Midget perhaps?
/Moss
Moss

Did you try the friction plate on the gearbox shaft first? Now that you wonder if you have the wrong clutch I have remembered checking that first! The mandrel was a pretty tight fit, I did wonder if I was going to get it out again.
PaulH Solihull

Paul, I had a roller bearing in a Holden Torana. Only problem was the sound, your 'wittering' I suspect. That roller bearing was still going strong (past four clutches) after 284,000 km. Only lost when the car was stolen and torched. Otherwise I would still have it. I'd have a degree of confidence about your roller bearing if you can live with what I'd call the chattering, although you say yours is settling down. Bu**er, should have kept mine a bit longer!
Roger T

The throwout bearing adjuster kit is available from mgamgb.com. I installed one 15 years ago when I installed a new heavy duty Borg and Beck clutch that came with the infamous roller bearing. The kit allows you to adjust the throwout bearing so that contact, between the pressure plate and bearing, is nonexistent while you're not pushing down on the clutch pedal. I keep my roller bearing at 1/32" from the pressure plate and there has been no wear or noises. It takes only a minute to adjust the bearing clearance. This is done by loosening the adjuster mounting bolts and moving the slave cylinder fore or aft to increase or decrease the clearance. I only have to adjust it every 5 years or so. RAY
rjm RAY

Paul, took the clutch off the flywheel and found out that the friction plate does fit on the input shaft splines (should have done at the very beginning I know...now!) - that is why it would not fit!! Very annoying. Have checked the condition of the old with the new and no difference - thickness, condition of the studs and springs,so have used the old friction plate again - and whoopti, the gearbox and engine mated very easily. Back to the shop to complain when it opens again.
/Moss
Moss

I had that problem about 30 years ago when replacing the clutch in my brother's GT.

We must have spent a couple of hours trying to get them back together. The gearbox was still in the car as we were only doing the clutch.

Eventually, we unbolted the clutch and tried the friction plate on the first motion shaft - no go. A few minutes with a needle file to remove the burrs and it went straight on.
Dave O'Neill2

Am now almost ready to put back in car...have a question I hope someone can answer:
On the gearbox one has the reverse light switch
- yes I know this,I took the green wires off. Fine. On the other side there is another switch and on 4 sync gearbox with OD this is for this. However, I have the standard none OD gearbox - And here is the conundrum - there are wires in yellow to this switch which were not connected but were sitting on top of the gearbox, dangling so to speak. What are these for and should they be connected? Could it for 'TSCA' and if so what is this?
Any response would be much appreciated.
/Moss
(Note to Paul,have been reading your website Paul - really useful info and knowledge - you name the 'TSCA'...)
Moss

TCSA - Transmission Controlled Spark Advance. Yes, the same gearbox switch was used for both OD and TCSA on later North American spec cars, which was why OD was restricted to 4th gear when it existed at all.

Unless you have bypassed the TCSA vacuum switch in the engine compartment then you should really have the TCSA circuit working or you will be suffering from poor cruising fuel economy.

Thanks for the kind words :o)
PaulH Solihull

Hi Paul, my B is 'detoxed' and apparantly this means that tcsa is not possible/needed - which is probably why it was disconnected. I have also read that this switch is unfused (as a tcsa switch)and can cause shorting and thereby creates a fire risk...apparantly.
/Moss
Moss

Indeed the OD (like the fuel pump) is unfused ignition. There is a definite fire risk with the gear-lever OD switches as the wires chafe, but all would benefit from an added in-line fuse. Together with my own cars I've worked on about half a dozen MGBs at various times and every one has had damaged fuel pump wiring, so that is another candidate for fusing, both are done on both my cars.

On the V8 these proved very useful when I had a carb float sink and start overflowing, I was able to cross-connect the fuel pump and OD fuses and use the OD switch to just turn the fuel pump on for a few seconds at a time so there was no overflow. On the later North American spec cars you can fuse both with one fuse as the white for the fuel pump branches off to the gear-lever OD switch as well.

TCSA can be kept/removed independently of the rest of the emissions kit, but there is no point in keeping it without. It was originally required on American spec cars because of problems caused by the rest of the emissions kit apparently - surging - so no kit, no surging. The vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold should be run direct to the distributor capsule in that case.
PaulH Solihull

Paul, then it must be that due to detoxing of my B the TCSA is unused - I have a 45D dis and the vacum pipe/tube runs direct form the manifold to the vacum advance unit on the dis. I have weber 32/36 carb (twin SU's would be very nice...!!) The PO must have done this and just disconnected the wires from the switch.
Thanks for the comments.I have taken out the engine and gearbox to change the release bearing and have learnt so much about other stuff - could not be better...
/Moss
Moss

Another small problem! I am replacing the 4 flange bolts on the main shaft rear end of the gearbox - have managed to remove the big nut but the flange won't budge - tried to pull it off by hand but won't budge! Can I use a gearpuller or is there something else to remove before sliding off?

Almost ready to put back in...!! At long last
/Moss
Moss

A puller should do the job.
Dave O'Neill2

Thanks Dave - thought as much. Wanted to be sure before possibly braking something I should'nt...again.
/Moss
Moss

At last engine and gearbox back in car! My goodness what a job - only two bruised fingers and had a problem with the engine mounts and the new used tie brackets on the gearbox - assembled them wrongly. The curved part on mine must face the engine otherwise the crossmember too far back for the bolts to fit...took me ages and ended up doing the modification - very easy after that.
Just need to attach the starter motor and alternator, coolant, oil in the engine and then ready to go.
Thanks to everyone who contributed with comments and advice. Used all of it in one way or another.
The next job is the distributor - think the vacum advance not working properly...but that's another day....soon
/Moss
Moss

Last comment - what a diffrence with new rubber engine mounts, all the gearbox support bolts in place and the correct brackets to the gearbox crossmember...no vibration and no movement of the gearlever when in neutral. And the gearchange is really smooth! A happy result...
/Moss
Moss

This thread was discussed between 19/11/2011 and 15/01/2012

MG MGB Technical index

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