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MG MGB Technical - engine removal checklist?

I've looked long and hard but can't seem to find a thread or site that gives a checklist or step by step instruction on engine-transmission removal/replacement.
I have found the specific threads on rear mounts installation etc.,Am I having a senior moment or am I looking for too much.Any direction would be appreciated.
doug matthew

Try to find either a Haynes manual or the green Bentley manual on MG's. Each has very detailed step by step instructions on removing the engine. Basically disconnect every hose, pipe, and wire that connections to the engine or tranny, including the driveshaft, carbs, and exhaust manifold. Use a cherry picker type engine hoist. Alternative methods are out there but that hoist allows for easier movement and lift. If you can get one of the "tilt lift" attachments use it as the engine has to be gotten to an extremely angle to clear the body. Remove the hood for more room.
william fox

also try this link- you may to cut and paste though. http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=early/91&subjectar=71&thread=E199808171105440 I found it in the archives under engine removal.
william fox

An alternative to removing the hood is to remove the hood prop rod and stand it vertical. Then tie a long rope from the hood to the boot (use the hook that the boot lock catches on). I always have problems realigning the hood, but that may just be me.

On rubber bumper cars the round motor mount is always a pain for me; maybe I'm doing it wrong. But the actual removal/refitting is not too difficult. Are you pulling the gearbox at the same time?

Tyson
Tyson Sherman

Unplug everything you can find that goes to the engine (yeah you'll remember where it all goes). Pulll the rad and rad surround. stick a chain around the engine. unbolt it, start cranking it up, unplug everything you've missed that's now stretched to breaking point. and then undo that last bolt that you forgot about. If you have the later round motormounts, watch the engine rip them off as your friend frantically jacks up the engine faster than you can say "my freaking finger's in the way!"

Good luck!
Dave

William provides the best advise. Get a copy of the workshop manual and follow it step for step. The "cherry picker" engine hoist costs about $250 and pays for itself the first time you use it. Also pick up a tilt attachment as it will make life much easier. Put the rear end of the car up on jack stands as this will reduce the angle somewhat. Holding the hood/bonnet back with a rope is a very good idea. I tie it off to the rear bumper or the latch for the trunk, depending on model. A series of Polaroid (sic?) photos may help in remembering where everything went. When you remove any part(s), put them into a Ziploc bag and lable he bag. Makes it much easier when you go to put everything back together. Les
Les Bengtson

Thanks
This has been very helpful
Douglas

Doug,

I got an engine hoist from Harbor Freight with folding legs (takes up very little room in the garage) for $199 US, plus tax. Do you have them or something similar up there in the land of hockey?
Paul Konkle

Douglas,
A couple of more hints:
Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing and leave it connected to the hydraulic hose. Bleeding the clutch is a pain.
Remove the shifter boot and shift lever before removing the tranmission crossmember.
On reinstallation be sure and get the ground straps back in place, starting the engine while using the throttle and/or parking brake cable for a ground is not advised.
Leland Bradley

This thread was discussed between 13/01/2002 and 14/01/2002

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.