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MG MGB Technical - Engine removal - Exhaust manifold

I have to take the engine out again on my 73 MGB having got it in over the weekend - don't ask.....

The good news is I am getting a lot faster!

One thing I really did not enjoy when putting it back in was fitting and tightening the 6 nuts that hold the manifold to the exhaust; can I leave the manifold attached to the exhaust and get the engine out? I recall you can on a midget. All being well it will be going back in by the weekend and half an hour + saved and reduced aching arms then would be good!

I suspect I will have to really properly support the exhaust it with a jack ( I do anyway to be honest ) to take the strain off the exhaust mounts?

Mike
Mike Dixon

Yes, slacken the clamps along the exhaust and it can be pulled over towards the inner wing. Much easier! No need for additional support with the front strap to the bellhousing in place.
paulh4

Thanks - it looks tight but I will give it a go. I need to get that support strap!
Mike Dixon

I'm wondering now!

I was sure I had done it that way so looked for photos, but the times I've had the engine (only) out for a clutch job they show the manifold stayed on the engine. So I'm wondering now whether I did it that way when I removed the head, looked for those and found the attached, sorry.

Those 6 nuts are certainly a pain, multiple extensions and UJ needed.


paulh4

Mike. Unless I have needed to replace part of the exhaust system, I have always simply unbolted the exhaust manifold from the engine and pulled it towards the inner fender.

Les
Les Bengtson

I always leave the manifold in place, using bungy straps to pull it as far as possible towards the inner wing. Hook the ends in the cavities at the top of the inner wing. Much quicker and doesnt risk unravelling due to one or more of the six studs stripping or breaking.

I also leave the throttle and choke cables through the heat shield and attached to the linkages - the whole assy can be parked carefully out of the way on the RH inner wing/pedal box (rhd) area using padding and of course no live electrical. Saves frustrating rethreading cables into trunnions, and avoids complications of cables starting to spread a little at the ends.
Paul Walbran

Thanks, I will give it try - good tip on the cables as well which can be a pain especially when they start to fray
Mike Dixon

Not sure if I gained any performance increase, but switching to a PECO mild steel three branch manifold about thirty years ago got around the complete PITA that are the manifold to down pipe joints. If they haven't been apart for a while, or a PO has decided to use steel nuts rather than brass ones, it can often lead to a sheared stud. Even when everything works OK there's all that hassle with sockets and multiple extensions.

In all that time, with various engine overhauls, clutch changes etc, I've always left the manifold in place and tied it to the bonnet support bracket ('72 car).
Peter Allen

This thread was discussed between 22/02/2022 and 26/02/2022

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