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MG MGB Technical - Engine Replacement/Conversion
| Hi, I have used the search function and come up with nothing related, so . . . I need to give my MGB GT more poke, as currently I am getting wasted by my mates GT6 and my other mates Spitfire (GT6 engine), which is obviously not acceptable! I have considered things like brake/suspension upgrades so I won't ask/discuss them here. What I need to know is how to make the 1800 MG engine faster, or whether it would be better to just replace the entire enginer/box completely with a better engine. I have obviously considered a V8, but as my motor is MkII 1968 the bulkhead etc. needs modifying and this is too much work and too costly. What about a race-spec block with uprated head and carbs? Price? I have also considered NOS, as this will provide me with the extra power when needed and keep the standard drivability of the GT, and also only cost about £600. However, I have reservations about sticking juice into a 30 year old engine and 'box. Please offer any advice or provide any relevant websites/info. I am based in England by the way. You help is greatly appreciated. olly |
| OT Hayter |
| Power costs money - how much do you want to spend? |
| Chris at Octarine Services |
| Olly, First of all, it's a good idea to buy and read Peter Burgess' book 'How to powertune MGB 4-cylinder engines', published in the SpeedPro series. Secondly, take a look at Chris Betson's site: http://www.octarine-services.co.uk . He's built my engine (check out the 'Alex's 1950cc crossflow engine' link), which produces over 150 hp at the engine! Other options obviously include an O-series engine (Rover 820s had these engines), a K-series engine (like the MGF and the Rover 25, 45 and some of the MG Z-series cars have) and other engines (rotary engines, ....). There's also the supercharger route (check out the supercharger bbs). But whatever you do, make sure the car is up to it! Make sure your car still brakes as it should! Suspension setup and tires should be up to it as well. And as most people will tell you, don't exspect something for nothing. Increasing the power of your car will cost money, if it's done properly. (it's easiest to contact the suppliers of engines etc and make sure you've got a specification that suits you) Hope this helps, Alex |
| Alexander M |
| If your current engine is in decent shape Moss do a more or less bolt on supercharger, but it isn't cheap!! Get Chris to build you an 1860cc with fast road cam and a Peter Burgess Ecotune Head. Properly set up that should more than keep up with a stock GT6, and won't cost the earth. Iain |
| I D Cameron |
| Olly- Post your Email address and I'll send something useful on the subject. |
| Steve S. |
| Olly, I've had one of Chris's (Octarine Services) 1860 engines and was very pleased. I don't think you could go far wrong talking to Chris direct. Charlie. |
| Charles Goozee |
| cheers for the response guys, I will do a bit more research into this! email: ollyhayter@hotmail.com |
| OT Hayter |
| I agree with the supercharger route. It may be all you need, but if not, it still would be useful with any modifications made to the engine. I am planning to add a SC to my 67 prior to doing anything else. Then if more power is still needed, look at doing the head and other power tuning items. Cost of replacement can't be cheap unless you have all the tools and knowledge to do it yourself. |
| Bruce Cunha |
| Define 'better' engine. A replacement engine wont be much more reliable than a properly-built B-Series unit but may permemantly alter the car's character. Be sure that's what you want before going that route! A Burgess cylinder head and a hotter cam may be all you need to continue enjoying the car with it's original engine. The Moss supercharger is a great upgrade and can be completely returned to stock in a couple hours should you or a future owner decide to do so. |
| Steve Simmons |
| Supercharging it would probably be the easiest bolt-on and $ per HP effect. About $3,000 US, a weekend of work, and 90% more HP. If you make this decision, make sure your engine is up to snuff. No use spending that amount of dough on an iffy engine. Luigi |
| Luis |
| Aw - come on Luis, even Moss only claim an extra 40% for their SC! |
| Chris at Octarine Services |
| I'd like to thank Chris at Octarine for his useful email(s). I'll start saving the pennies now . . . |
| OT Hayter |
| I thought I read (in Classic Motorsports) that it gave approx double the whp in a rubber bumper car. I'll have to find it and re-read it. Luis |
| Luis |
| The car tested, low comp w/Zenith showed 50 HP at the wheels stock. Same car had 94 HP at the wheels with the super. A twin SU high comp B puts out 65 stock and probably the same 94 with super. So you are both right! Chris, if you have never driven a late model American B you can't imagine how slow it is and how dead the engine feels- won't rev over 5000 at all and protests over 4500. It would break your heart! |
| Terry |
| V8 conversion really does not have to be all that hard. The changes to the bulkhead are not great, just cutting off those inner corners, about the size of the palm of your hand. If you want to EXACTLY replicate the later bulkheads and RV8 bulkhead, thats hard work. If you use the Dellow/Supra gear box you don't have to do anything about the transmission tunnel. The supra box is small, cheap, light and strong. If you want to use a rover box, thats really hard work. Tunnel cutting welding etc. |
| Peter |
| Oh right, I had no idea you could use a different 'box. Changing the tunnel was one of my worries, as well as the bulkhead. Are you talking about a manual Toyota Supra 'box? I don't want to replicate the RV8 bulkhead, its just that ideally I would like a V8 over anything else. Any idea how much a conversion + engine/box might cost? cheers |
| OT Hayter |
| Gearbox is a quid... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10428&item=4504151031&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW And buy the engine for a hundred... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31349&item=4504880129&rd=1 Obviously you'll be looking at money for the bellhousing to fit it all together, I'd guess about £500 quid, which is is why I'd try and find a complete SD1 installation with an LT77, and make it fit, as it will be much cheaper. |
| dave |
| I intend to change my name, move house and grow a beard after the following comment. If its purely more horse power and speed you are after without all the fuss and work why not sell the MG and buy your self a Porsche 944. They are relatively cheap and don't cost the earth to insure unless you are one of the very young people who drives an MG. Sorry people but I just had to say that. I will now retire to a safe distance and except the critisum. |
| Doug Endean |
| dave, and then you would need to source the manifolds and carb or efi the oil pump base and remote filter, the engine mounts and probably flywheel & clutch (can't see if it is fitted) so that will ad probably another £1500 to the cost - then there is the propshaft and rear axle to sort out plus recalibrating the tacho and speedo.... and you are up to £2500 before you start the fitting costs! Not to mention that any Rover V8 that has done 110,000 miles will have a shot camshaft and followers at least. |
| Chris at Octarine Services |
| Just to add spice to this discussion, and hopefully not opening up the whole rice burner controversy, why not use the whole Supra engine and trans? Toyota are pretty well bullet proof and the whole thing would probably save weight. |
| Norm Peacey |
| "If its purely more horse power and speed you are after without all the fuss and work why not sell the MG and buy your self a Porsche 944." I agree! However, that is rarely the case. In most every case when someone comes on the board and asks about an engine transplant, what they are looking for is more power, more speed, AND, they want all that in an MGB. That is the critical parameter - they want it in an MGB! Surely you can't object to that, can you? Everything we know and love about MGBs, but without the one thing we don't like - lack of power. If you're a true MGB enthusiast, how can you condemn some one for wanting to keep and improve on an MGB? Well, I "sorta" agree. I wouldn't choose a Porsche 944 - there are many other cars out there that are a better choice. But, yes, by any criteria you should choose, save one, an MGB will fall out near the bottom of the list. The one - and only - criteria that puts the MGB at the top is personal preference. We just plain like the damn little things. I don't know about you, but I like 'em even better with more power. The engineers at Abingdon felt the same way, else why did they produce the V8 version? It's just too bad they didn't produce many more of them. |
| Dan Masters |
| "why not use the whole Supra engine and trans?" That's a good question, and one that I've often wondered about myself. This engine comes up in conversations frequently, but so far, I haven't seen one installed. I'd be really curious to see how it would stack up against a V8 in terms of a performance/degree of difficulty ratio or performance/cost ratio. It would certainely be an improvement over the stock engine. At this point in time, so many V8 conversions have been done, and so much is known about the problems of installing one and how to get around them, that the V8 option looks pretty attractive. |
| Dan Masters |
| The attraction on this side of the pond is that Supras are VERY rare, and Sd1 and Range Rovers engines very common. Olly, I did a V8 conversion in 1997 (and again in 2000 when I 'scraped' a lamp-post). The radiator mounting conversion is dead easy...you just cut off the old brackets, and make supports out of tube which you fix to the wing mounting bolts (I have pics if you need them) To use the Rover box you do have to do a small mod to the transmission tunnel, but I have heard if people 'modifying'it with a large hammer...it only needs about 1/2" exra height. There are loads of engines, and occasionaly gearboxes on E BAy, if you go down the fuel injected route you will get about 200bhp, 30+mpg, and more mid-range torque than you will ever need. There are loads of people here and on the MGOC site with help and advice, if you can get to Blackpool you are welcome to try V8 power for yourself.....but beware....you will be hooked !! Mike |
| Michael barnfather |
| Exchange rate is about 2.5 dollars per pound Bell housing, fork, bush is $400. Shouldn't cost too much to ship. Search Dellow Austomotive. There are a variety of cheap toyota boxes with the same bolt pattern. Shouldn't cost more than $700. Check the archives, lots of info in the V8 conversion section. You have lots more options than us with bits and peices. Exhaust system 400 pounds complete, cheapest I've seen is MGBeeHive . Drive shaft was $300. Radiator, from $300 to $600 Electric Fan $300 Engine- Just depends on what you want to do to it, skys the limit I guess. I spent $2500 on a good low km 3.9 including some plenum machineing If you go EFI then about $350 worth of pipes, feeder pump, main pump and late model sender(for return line). Bigger Brakes?-your option Bigger wheels? again. |
| Peter |
| If you're going to fit a Supra engine and box, why not leave them in the Supra and drive that instead? MGBs are MGBs, and that's why we love them. If you want fast, reliable, economical and comfortable then take the Mondeo (or whatever). If you want a bit of fun, then take the B. Compromises rarely satisfy! Neil |
| Neil Lock |
| "If you're going to fit a Supra engine and box, why not leave them in the Supra and drive that instead?" I already told you why - because I don't want to! If I wanted a Supra, I would have bought one, and I wouldn't be on this BBS listening to inane comments like that. "MGBs are MGBs, and that's why we love them." True enough, but I love them even more if they have more power. If you don't, so be it, no one is forcing you to swap your engine. If you want a bit of fun, then take the B. I will, thank you very much, but I will also have a V8 in it so I can have even more fun. "Compromises rarely satisfy!" Putting a V8 into an MGB is NOT a compromise. Have you ever driven a V8 conversion? I've known lots of folks who have decided they wanted an MGB V8 after one drive in one; I've never known anyone to want to take the V8 out after driving a stock MGB! |
| Dan Masters |
| Anyone have the specifications on the new GTO engine and 6 speed? I understand this is actually a Austrailian car. It appears to be a smaller chassis, but don't know what work it would take for a B. Almunimum V8 and 6 speed- should be a few of these in the salvage yards now or in the near future. |
| Bruce Cunha |
| Yes the GTO is Aussie. It's a Holden Monaro down here. Just as much a performance icon as the GTO in the US. For what it is worth, here are some Monaro details. 260kW 5.7 litre high output Gen III 'LS1 Plus' Alloy V8 ENGINE 'V' Configuration. High flow low restriction air intake. OHV design with cross flow cylinder heads. Sequential fuel injection. High energy, distributorless ignition. Twin knock control sensors. Onboard diagnostics. Electric cooling fan. Stainless steel exhaust. Aluminium alloy block and cylinder heads. Cross-bolted main bearings. 6-bolt. BORE x STROKE (mm) 99 x 92 CAPACITY (cc) 5665 COMPRESSION RATIO (:1) 10.1 POWER (ECE, kW) 260 @ 5600 rpm* TORQUE (ECE, Nm) 500 @ 4000 rpm* GEAR RATIOS (:1) Manual 1st 2.97 2nd 2.07 3rd 1.43 4th 1.00 5th 0.84 6th 0.57 Final drive ratio 3.46 |
| RM Taylor |
| Ollie In case you haven't seen this, the current issue of Practical Performance Classic is out with an article by Roger Parker of MGOC on fitting a Rover 2.0L M/T series engine into a B/BGT. You'll need a few bits from the breakers (inc. bits from the Sherpa van) but it is a viable alternative. The Rover M/T series derived from the 'O' series engine which the B was due to get under Aston Martin proposals in 1980. It's a cast iron block with alloy head, but even in standard form the 2.0L was good for 140bhp which anyone with a Rover 420 or 620 or 820 will know was a reasonably solid unit capable of good performance. The real flyer was the T series used in the 220 coupe (Tomcat) as a turbo'd unit capable of over 200bhp. The T series offers fuel injection and distributorless ignition. Currently, I hear that Powertrain (the MGR engine subsidiary making the K/KV series engines) is offloading a load of recon'd T series engines very cheaply as demand is very low. HTH Martin |
| Martin ZT |
| Dan, Sorry you took offence. None intended. Just can't see the point in ruining a perfectly good classic British car by sticking a daft engine in it just because it would go faster. I can absolutely see the point of a V8, and I can 'kind of' see the point of the O-series. Neil |
| Neil Lock |
| Yeah I have heard of the Practical Performance Classic mag artical but I can't find it anywhere - anyone got a copy I can rob? As for the rest of you, cheers for your comments. I'll try and answer everything: I am a young driver (24), I love my MG, and I want more power, simple as that. If I wanted all-and-out speed I would go buy a cosworth or something. At the moment I am looking into the Octarine engine transplants or a 'O' series from one of the newer rovers. I quite fancy a turbo actually . . . mmmm!! cheers |
| OT Hayter |
| Olly, Think you might have to consider a transplant now and maybe sooner that later!! |
| Iain MacKintosh |
| Dan, Dan, settle down mate, you seem all het up about other peoples contribution to the this forum message. When I replied to Ollie I based my responce on his opening message that did include having the power to beat other classics but within a budget, which was his criticial parameter. Living in England brings greater restrictions to modifications than perhaps you are aware of living in the USA. Here insurance is perhaps the biggest consideration and as I some how assumed, correctly, that Ollie was not a grey haired driver but a young man the cost of any engine modification will need to be good enough first to pass the Ministry of Transport test for safety then pass the bigger test of how to pay for the insurance which will probably be easily equal to the cost of the conversion, we are talking very big money unless Ollie can find a specialist insurer who will be happy to take the risk. The idea of a standard yet good perfoming car, Porsche 944 as I suggested, was that Ollie can pick one up cheaply and insure it for a good deal less than a modified MGB and have the best of both worlds, a MGB and a fast sports car that will beat the pants off his mates, look good and sell easy (as its unmodified and won't be a problem for the next guy to insure) should the need arise. I have no hang ups on anyone modifying there MG at all and if I had the time, the spare cash and the desire I would be sticking something a bit special under the bonnet as well. I have enjoyed my MG on a daily basis for several years. Its resting in the garage at the moment whilst I give it a makeover. I, and I dare say most of us that use this site, do really enjoy our MGB's with or without V8's under the bonnets just because they a a car with character. So Dan enjoy the MGB with what ever motor takes you fancy and I will park mine along side the Porsche 944 when I get it and hope that whichever one I am in I don't get done for speeding again, less likely in the B then in a Porsche or on my Suzuki GSX 600 which just cost me £60 and put the second lot of three points on my licience. Ollie, good luck mate with whatever you decide to do. Doug |
| Doug Endean |
| Doug, Olly wrote: "I need to give my MGB GT more poke..." He didn't write "I want a car that will go fast." If he had asked for advice on buying an inexpensive sports car with lots of speed, your advice would have been right on, and appropriate. Your reponse may have been good advice, but it had nothing to do with his question. Telling him to change his underwear on a regular basis is probably good advice too, but it also has nothing to do with his question. Since he asked for advice on making his MGB faster, the only advice he should have received was exactly that - how to make his MGB go faster. And any pitfalls he should watch out for if does. He also asked if it might not "...be better to just replace the entire engine/box completely with a better engine." He didn't ask if it might not be better to just replace the entire car. This is an MGB forum, and those of us that participate are supposedly MGB enthusiasts. When someone comes on the board with a question about improving his MGB, it doesn't seem appropriate for another MGB enthusiast to tell him to sell his MGB and get another car. I didn't give him any advice because he had already ruled out a V8 swap, and I don't know enough about the other options to give advice. Several other people on here did give him some good advice, appropriate to his question, and I made no comments on their advice. Yes, I'll admit, I get a touch testy when I hear "if you want a (blank), get a (blank) and leave the MGB alone. If I prefered a (blank) over an MGB, it would seem pretty obvious to me to get one without someone telling me. I can't understand why the desire to keep and enjoy an MGB, with improvements, is so hard for other MGB enthusiasts to understand. I very seriously considered buying a BMW Z3 recently, but decided against it because I could't keep both, and I know I'll enjoy my V8 powered MGB more. If my postings seem "het up," I apologize, they aren't meant to be - just a statement of my opinion. When it comes to opinions on modifying MGs, I guess it comes down to two options: you are a car enthusiast, or you are a car collector. If you are a true enthusiast, modifications are desirable; If you're a car collector, they aren't. Nothing wrong with either position, it's just a matter of choice/taste. |
| Dan Masters |
| Dan- MG owners have been improving their cars since day one. In fact, the entire history of MGs goes back to the days when mechanics at Morris Garages (now you know where the name "MG" comes from) would take a standard Morris automobile and "improve" it for discerning customers who wanted a little better performance. MGs have always been enthusiasts' cars, and it's just in the nature of things for enthusiasts to improve their cars. Only the most rabid of purists would object to an owner doing period-correct modifications to it. What entails "period-correct" modifications, you ask? Quite simply, anything that was being done to the cars when they were still in production, including really interesting work done by the factory race team. This includes, but is not limited to, changes such as: camshaft, headwork, valvetrain work, exhaust system work, carburetors, intake manifolds, aircleaners, distributor modifications, suspension modifications including different springs, damper rate modifications, stabilizer bars (both front and rear), lowering the chassis, adding a Panhard rod, changing transmission and differential gear ratios, wheels, tires, and just about anything else that the mind had conceived of in those days, which is a lot. I've never met an MG owner who has actually done all of these things to his car, but if I ever do, you can bet he'll be wealthy. I can see no reason for any MG enthusiast to have a problem with pointless ignition, better headlights, better brake friction materials, radial tires, or anything else that is a reversible "improvement." To those enthusiasts who take pleasure and pride in tinkering with and improving their MGs I say: "You are the true keepers of the MG Heritage." To those who insist that an MG should be exactly as it was when it left the factory at Abingdon, I can only say this: "You're missing the whole point of the Marque and its history." |
| Steve S. |
| Well said Steve. |
| Al McMillan |
| He didn't say it. He just cut and paste from someone else without attribution. A recurring habit. |
| !! |
| I know why Dan got enthusiastic. The MGBV8 is not just about power (which is fun) It just works so well, one of those "better in every way" things. Most engine swaps are a bit nasty in some respect, not the MGB V8 one. Car gets more drivable, gear box gets better, handleing gets better, car gets lighter, gets more reliable, with EFI the economy seems to be about the same. Pollution even gets less. Handles high speed effortlessly, purrs around town at low speed. Because its legit' (factory V8/same engine)Value increases, which you can't say about ANY other engine swap. It's easy cause it's made for it and it even sounds better than the orrigional. |
| Peter |
| Well said indeed, Steve. However I feel there is another side to that statement. Back then, modifying cars was no different than modifying a Honda Civic today. But even the pioneers of MG would not have changed a classic painting to suit their tastes (I know, bad analogy). I'm not saying that changing a classic car is bad, but for many people the whole point of owning a MG is to experience vintage motoring, not simply to go fast in an old car. Me personally, I prefer to spice up the original engine rather than replace it with something modern. The engine of a car, to me, is it's soul and the heart of it's character. Handling and looks are a lesser issue. Just my 3.42 cents USD. |
| Steve Simmons |
| Dear Ollie Sorry mate for being off the point a bit as Dan has so tackfully pointed out. I will of course from now on study the messages far more before making a comment, er, I think not. Sorry Dan but as an enthusiast, not supposedly, but an enthusiast, of MG's and most things with two or more wheels and a motor, I will continue to enjoy this forum and make comments that can be accepted,accurate or full of errors and disregarded, without getting upset at all. I love a laugh and may sometimes do it at someone else's expence, but not intensionally to cause them any upset so will hopefully never need to make any kind of apology to anyone. Well Ollie, the MG and a bit'a go in it is the subject then. I have a stage two head with polished ports and a reprofiled combustion chamber. Its got a nice 45DCOE Weber but I may stick a couple of SU's on from a Trimph Dolimite Sprint that I found in a local scrap yard and have fiddled with and changed the linkages on to fit, but then I may not. The suspension up front are leaver arm 35% uprated and the rear has new leaf springs (standard and now several years old really) to regain normal height and good rear control, and a pair of adjustable monroes. I have a nice set of wide 100+ alloys, age related that came with the car. I did have breakerless igntion but after two sets (luminition if I remember right) each became troublesome I went back to points in a 25D lucas distributor. I don't know what camshaft I have in but do intend to put a decent one in before I return the car to the road after playing about with it (some may call it restoration but I already did that once and now am just finishing the job off having had several good years out of it since then) a bit more. If I was really clever I would attach a photo of my BGT for you to see it at its best but then I am not that clever. I did have this notion of sticking a Ford V6 2.3 or 2.8 in (look at the Fella classics website) but then wondered why. I like my car sort of as it is, sedate and un complicated by modern standards, a bit like me I suppose. When it is back on the road with its new paint, new interior, new camshaft, lighting and modified wiring harness I may jus sell it and get a Porsche 944 (if I can convince my wife what a good idea it is) and will become a Porsche enthusiast for a number of years then. All the best to one and all, even Dan the master MG enthusiast. Doug |
| Doug Endean |
| Oh and there was the Peco three branch manifold and single box two inch bore exhaust that my wife hated as people kept saying to her that there must be a hole in the exhaust pipe, oh those of little understanding of such things. Its on the shelf in the garage now and a stainless stell has replaced it, with more silencers to keep her in doors happy. If she see's this written down I am a dead man. Doug |
| Doug Endean |
| Hello Olly, My suggestion for a substitude engine is fitting a Volvo SOHC B23F Hi-comp engine with SU manifold-carb. set-up of a B23A. This engine will give you a range of 115HP. The Volvo gearbox M46 is a 5 speed with a laycock OD and if I am correct has the same univeral joint than a MGB. This engine is extremly reliable. It will give you more power at wheel without all that fitting needed for a V6 or a V8. Cheers, JGC |
| Jean Guy Catford |
| You are always going to get people that want to customise their cars with engine swaps, and you will always get the people that moan about ruining a good car and not 'being in the spirit' of the marque, or whatever (I figure as long as he just wants to ruin an MGB and not something really worthwhile like an MGA......) Anyway, one swap you could consider is a Chev V-6. You can get the whole engine and 5 speed trans from a Camaro, they are available from 2.8 to 3.4 displacements, and put out from 100 to 185 bhp depending on which you choose. I run a 3.2 version in my daily driver (not an MG) and have been very happy with it - 200K (km), and 300 bhp - boosted at 13 psi ;-) This is a 60 degree V-6 and fits very nicely in an MGB - the block is almost exactly the same length in fact. |
| Bill Spohn |
| !!- Yep, it's a Cut & Paste, alright. It's an excerpt from an article that I wrote. The text is my personal creation, and the opinion expressed is entirely my own. Steve- I tend to agree. I wouldn't shoehorn a Chevy V6 into my car because that would, in my opinion, alter the nature of the car. I happen to enjoy the vintage feel of the MGB. I like improving the output of the built-like-a-bridge engine, too. But then, everybody already knows that. It's really surprising just how much power can be had if you take the time, make the effort, spend the money, and do it right so it won't be tempermental and short-lived. |
| Steve S. |
| Bill I resent the statement 'as long as he just wants to ruin an MGB and not something worthwhile like an MGA' To no-one in particular also, i hate all this banter about what you should and shouldn't do to a classic car. For god'ssake you're all grown me - most of you with many more years on the clock than myself. Mind you they do say its not the age but the mileage . . . Anyway, that's a load of rubbish and off topic. The engine in my GT was replaced in the early eighties by a previous owener, so even if i do replace it completely its not like i am ruining a vintage car or anything. I am still to consult my insurance company concerning enginer upgrades, if its too expensive then i am just gonna bin the car and buy something else. To tell you lot the truth, I am completely fed up with ownign my MG. Its been nothing but a pain since i bough it in June. I paid (what I thought at the time) a large sum of money for a 'mint' '68 MBG GT. Only to have it break down three times in the first two months and cost me nearly a grand in repairs, which included a new clutch despite the fact that the previous owner had (incorrectly) fitted a new on only months beforehand. I spent all my hard savings and borrowed money to buy it - of which I have only just paid off this month Then i have had two seperate idiots damage my car in car parks when I wasn't there - one of which damaged an irreplacable original mint grill and cause £200 damage to the bonnet, which i still have to find the money to repair. Finally, the oil pressure gauge started to read 0 a few mile from home last week. Now this could be something as simple as changing the filter, or it could mean a complete rebuild - neither of which I have the time or money (at the moment) to do. So there you have it, my so called dream car is now stuck in a garage until the new year with no oil pressure, no money to fix it and definately no one to love it. anyone want to buy an MG? |
| OT Hayter |
| OT- Aggravating. Very aggravating. Take heart that the two separate idiots in the car parks probably would've done the same regardless of whatever car you had. Get a lawyer to go after them and get your money for competent repairs from them. As for the mechanical worries, you're going through the initial trials of MG Ownership worse than most, but you needn't surrender. Take the car to an affordable specialist such as Chris Betson at Octarine Services. He'll give you an Honest assessment of what needs to be done to set the car right so you can have it in reliable form. I'm sure that he can steer you to an honest body repair shop that will fix the damage properly at a reasonable cost, too. Once that's done, you'll be converted and never look back. |
| Steve S. |
| A car is only as good as th person who built it. Apparently your car had a rotten mechanic at one point in it's life. I second Steve's suggestion to take the car to Chris. When he is done, the car should be as reliable as anything. |
| Steve Simmons |
| Ollie Where are you in the UK mate. If I or a mate can help, we will. I live in Devon and I am sure that there are enough people in this forum who live around the country that will, if nothing else, have a look at the car and give you an honest opinion about what the problems are and how to do some thing about them, without breaking the bank. Come on people don't let the lad down in his hour of need. The MG is a simple car to work on and a hlaf inch AF is all most all you will need to fix just about everything. The loss of pressure could be nothing more than the gauge if not accompanied by other things like a hell of a clatter from the engine. Lets test the value of this site. Tell me the area where you live and I will start a thread to get you going again or shame the lot of us. Doug the Elder |
| Doug Endean |
| I've heard it all now - recommending a garage on another continent! Olly, I've got a hillclimb spec engine: big valve head, 1.75 SU's, 717 cam, etc. I insured it through MGOC who put a 50% loading on it. They also put up the premium by a huge amount each year. I now insure it for £100 or so through Pete Best. Neil |
| Neil Lock |
| OT - Don't Fret. I bought a '68 roadster and it was owned by a solo mum with two kids. Pretty as you like and so convincing. But, I was green and took her word for it being well looked after. I drove it with rattles, speed wobbles, serious rust (with newspapers covered on fibreglass filler to disguise it) in the wings, slipping clutch, rotten hydraulics, and yes, it had our Kiwi equivalent of an MOT sticker to certify it as road worthy. Despite that, I drove it 100km to my home with a smile as wide as a cheshire cat. The girls waved as I drove through the small towns on the way. I got it home, and then the unintended work started. Now, with an unintended restoration costing the Kiwi equivalent of 7,000 pounds later, I'm truly and happily in love with Emmy! Now, if nthat restorer could do such a job on my ex-wife, I may not have.... well that's another story. My advice... take the last pound you have, get a real ale in front of you, and write a list of things to do. It doesn't matter how long the list is, you're only going to tackle the jobs one by one. Then, five years later (like me) you'll be really in love with a trim, good looking, shiny MGB that'ss be the envy of all non MGB owners. Go For it! Cheers from Downunder |
| Ray Shoebridge |
| *sneaks by with a TBI fuel injection, & suzuki supercharger kit* hehehe had the third B motor rebuilt and its working right now. Ya ya I know what ya'll are gonna say but I decided not to use the suzuki engine because it broke my right hand... damned bracket snapped... anyway had the b seris engine rebuilt by a mg mechanic i was lucky to find in the yellow pages of all things. It's an 1865cc motor with a sport tuned head(3 way ground & polish), mild cam, balanced crankshaft, ground and polished out oil & water journals for better flow and increased heat transfer. I'm using a downdraft manifold with an adapter mounting plate i made, the carb is a twin 9psi injector weber made for suzuki swift. It works pretty well, but its got alot of bugs I need to work out of it first, the main one is the fuel maps it keeps spiking and flooding out depending on a few imputs thats not sending things right to the ecm. I'll figure it out and do a few tests first to see whats what and let ya'll know. As for the supercharger... well I'll have to keep that quiet for now. Hopefully this one will be the charm and not another damned disaster. Can't afford to spend a few weeks to find another B motor thats worth rebuilding. |
| CJD Dark |
| Hey guys, cheers for more of your input, i seem to have started a bit of an epic thread . . . I live in Reading if anyone is interested, my car is parked at a friends parents at the moment about 10 miles away. As i mentioned before, I dont have any spare cash until the new year, but by then i hope to have sorted out what I want to do to the car. Apart from a decent service, these things include: New rear leaf springs (lower ride height) Anti-roll bar Polyeurythene bushes all round New front brake pads (& possible fast-road discs) Upgrade to the engine or complete replacement Various interior mods e.g. Chrome roll cage (bolt in), lightweight seats, harnesses, new one-off centre console (my design & hopefully carbon fibre!), chrome fire extinguisher and a few other bits. Plus i gotta a seriously decent (yet removable for track days) ICE system. Its all gonna be quite expensive, and that ain't including the bare metal respray I have my eyes on in a couple of years . . . And for the finale i might stick Nitrous in for a bit of fun at track days - depends on the funding though! |
| OT Hayter |
This thread was discussed between 15/11/2004 and 29/11/2004
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