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MG MGB Technical - Euro Clear
I am thinking about buying a pair Euro clear 7" headlights with h4 Xenon Bulbs. Will they tax my charging system. I now get dull headlights when stopping. Will these lights solve my problem. I am concerned about the headlight wiring with these lights |
Cec |
I've been considering the Cibie E-code lights and will most likely buy a set before next spring. Not cheap, at around $160 a set but a good beam pattern. I ran Hella's and they are unbearable, though they do put out lots of light. Don't quite know what they are designed for but it isn't MG's. Must be something with the lights high off the ground, like a Duece-and-a-half maybe. |
Jim Blackwood |
Cec; Are you sure replacing bulbs is the answer? I would check out all the connectors, wiring, charging system,belt tension, as well as idle speed first. It sounds like you might be trying to treat the symptom instead of finding the scource of the problem. I have no experience with halogen or xenon bulbs in an MGB or other old british car, however the electrical system capacity was marginal to begin with. I don't know what year you have, if generator or alternator. I did the Bosh upgrade on a 76MGB, cleaned and replaced all the bullet connectors under the hood(bonnet), cleaned all spade connectors, and the system is much much better. |
Pete Haburt |
Can someone run through the E codes for me. Any sites with a good impartial description of them? |
Marc |
Hi, I have a 1980 with an alternator. Everything works Ok except when the light have been on for awhile they dull when stopping. The signal lights flash more slowely . The idle speed is Ok around 700-800RPMs. I was planning to replace all the connectors over the winter with Waterproof Cat connectors (I forget the name of the connectors but Caterpillar uses them) Cec |
Cec |
Cec, Sounds like a definite charging system problem. And putting bigger lights on will only make it worse. When braking that means 1 or 2 things.. posssibly both. 1. The charging system is in it's lowest output state. ANy drains will show up most at this point. 2. If you have a drain in your brake light loop, it will further pull down the current and thus make things go dim.. I would say take a test run, when you get home and hit the brakes, come to a stop, now let off the brake and see if the lights get brighter when you release them.. |
Larry Embrey |
It could be connections, one of those big wires on the back of the alternator do tend to get fried. Take a good close look at that connector and the spade connectors. Might want to clean them up good and maybe bend the curled ends a bit so they grip tighter. Marc, I lost my link for the E-codes but somebody here should have it. Or do a Google search. There are at least 2 sites, one of which is very good and informative. Post if you find it, I'll do the same. BTW, I just learned the Mutsubishi alternator I'm running on my car will operate as a 1 wire. I've been unplugging it because it needs a relay in the ign feed, but twice now I've started it without plugging it back in and it works fine once you rev the engine. Jim |
Jim Blackwood |
This thread was discussed between 26/10/2002 and 27/10/2002
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