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MG MGB Technical - Exhaust Installation Advice

I'll need to replace the complete exhaust system on my 72B from the downpipe back and I'm wondering if it is realistic for me to try it myself even though I don't have access to a lift. Is it possible--without too much trouble--to do this on jackstands or should I just bite the bullet and have it done? Thanks!
Greg Smela

Last summer, I did mine using jackstands. It is definitely possible for a DIY'er.

The only tricky part I found was reaching up from underneath to attach the nuts to the exhaust manifold studs. Its one of those situations where you can see it or you can touch it, but not both; your hand will block your vision. The clearance between the downpipe and the frame on one side and the downpipe and the engine on the other is close. I have moderately large hands and I found it difficult to get the nuts started. Once started, a deep-drive socket on a 12 inch extension worked well. I think one of the nuts required a universal joint on the extension. Maybe soemone else has found a way to reach down from above and start the nuts, but I haven't.

Other than that, it was relatively straightforward. Leave everything loose until you get it all assmebled, then do a final positioning and tighten everything down.
Paul Noble

Greg,

Paul Noble is correct, the jackstands should work fine. I was able to reach some of the nuts and get them started by removing the air filter cannisters and reaching down past the carbs. This may help.
Paul Konkle

Paul & Paul, thanks! I'll try it!
Greg Smela

I agree with you guys. Getting the nuts on the exhaust manifold studs is a challenge. Give yourself plenty of room to work underneath the car (Make sure the jackstands are stable). Clear goggles (from any auto part store) are a nice addition to keep the dirt and rust out of your eyes.

Soak the nuts on the manifold in lots of liquid wrench. Some of them may snap, so be careful. You might as well order new studs along with the two donut gaskets (Brit Tek is a great source 800 255 5883). New studs or studs in good shape make the job so much easier. Use Anti Seize on the studs so that they will come off easily next time.

A long ratchet extension is a must. You'll probably want to use two extensions (one long, one at least medium). Again, definitely use a 1/2" deep socket and you will appreciate a universal adapter for a couple of the nuts.

You can place the nut in the socket and place the lock washer on top and start the nut (you may want to use a regular, not deep 1/2" for this) on the thread by hand holding the extension (don't use the ratchet to start as you don't want to cross thread.

The toughest thing about the job is the rusted bolts throughout the system. Again, use plenty of Liquid Wrench everywhere, let things soak. Loosen bolts carefully. Use Anti Seize to assemble.

Good Luck!

Steve
Steve Lipofsky

I used ramps in front and jackstands in back with no problem.
Steve L. must have been watching me do mine a few months ago as that is exactly how I did my manifold nuts when I converted to HS4's. All I can add is regarding the manifold olives, the asbestos (or whatever it's coated with now) side goes toward the engine manifold.

Mike
'79B
Mike Janacek

Thanks again. I'm amazed at the wealth of information available on this BBS. As a newcomer, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the advice offered here by all of you.
Greg Smela

Two methods for getting the nuts and washers on the down pipe flanges
have worked for me. Put the nut in short socket and tape the washer
on the end of the socket with some masking tape. I have also used a
strong magnet with a long handle, the magnet will hold the nut and
washer in place for getting the nut started. FWIW, Clifton
Clifton Gordon

In addition to all of this, when I did mine last year, I propped up part of the downpipe with a spare floor jack I had. That way, I didn't have to waste all my energy keeping the damn thing up. Good luck.

Alex
Alex

Greg,

When I installed my stainless exhaust it needed just a small amount of extra bending to get in the right position. I had to put a 2x4 between the body and pipes and push up on the rear muffler a little to get it all alligned. Be careful you don't put too much pressure on the exhaust manifold or it may crack.

Mike
Mike Crowley

Use BRASS manifold nuts to attach your downpipe to the the manifold; they won't seize to the studs and they're plenty strong enough to hold the pipes there. Hopefully the PO used them, if not you may be looking at the hardest part of the job...
I use a gob of grease or antiseize to hold the lockwasher and nut in place on the socket so I can easily get those manifold to downpipe nuts started.
Enjoy and keep telling yourself this is a fun job to be doing.
Wade Keene

This thread was discussed between 09/11/2001 and 10/11/2001

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