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MG MGB Technical - Front Shock Absorbers

My lever arm front shock absorbers/dampers are getting very bouncy. Topping them up gives me a temporary fix, but I think it's now the time for replacement.

I can buy reconditioned ones, as I've done in the past, but these have mixed reviews ie some last reasonably well, others seem subject to early failure. For the price these go for I'm not sure what's been done: new seals, a lick of paint? There's a chap in the States that apparently does a really thorough overhaul, but I'm not aware of anybody in the UK doing the equivalent

Alternatively, I can re-mortgage and buy new ones, which might be the safer bet, as the car's a keeper. Plus don't need to send back old ones. By the way, I've got uprated valves in the existing shocks, so would like to swap these over to the replacements, so hopefully compatible with new ones.

Has anybody any recent experience of well overhauled re-con shocks or new ones? The prices are there or thereabouts with most suppliers, but any recommendations would be useful.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Peter Allen

I have just replaced one of mine with a recon unit from B&G. I am sure that those from the US are far superior but I decided that as the most difficult bit was likely to be the top trunnion assembly, I would chance having to replace it again soon. (As it turned out the fulchrum pin came out easily {poly bush lube and stainless})

However B&G are relatively close and I took the old one back as I bought the new recon one!

Replacing the valve in a new unit might invalidate the warranty if they notice!
Michael Beswick

Can't help you there Peter. I've had some atrocious re-con units. I know Paul Hunt has had some decent units, but that might be just luck of the draw. There are a couple of firms in the States doing "proper" rebuilds at around the £100 mark but you would have to add postage and import to that. Don't know of anyone in the UK................strange!!!
https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com/
Allan Reeling

By the way, meant to say in previous post, there is nothing special about "up-rated" valves. They are easily adjustable, the only issue is judging the how much you have increased the compression and rebound damping rates. I doubt whether any of the re-builders have a "rig" to measure this, the judgement being purely subjective. Whatever you get as replacements fill them with synthetic motor cycle fork oil, it's considerably more heat stable than the mineral oil most are filled with.
Allan Reeling

Peter, I'm not sure if you have used these people in the past - I haven't had to use them or do anything to my front shocks yet.

http://www.vintageandclassicshockabsorbers.co.uk/#/armstrong/4579579683

Their costs look reasonable so it maybe worth giving them a call about guarantee etc.

Andy




Andy Robinson

if you are keeping the valves why not have a go at refub'ing your own with this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Armstrong-Front-Damper-Shock-Absorber-Refresh-Kit-MGB-etc-UK-Made-/172728575669?hash=item28376ce6b5:g:ulcAAOSw42dZFyCl

Malc lives down your way and has done a fair amount of research on typical failures and as long as your main pivot seals aren't leaking or wear in the casing it might save you the trauma of poor replacements.

Malc will be along soon to add more I'm sure.

Best of....
MGmike
M McAndrew

Thanks Mike.

The kits I have on eBay were aimed at refreshing the dampers, but won't cure a damper with leaky shaft seals or worn internals. They are a kit to DIY what the big boys charge £25 for (and do a crap job of!).

Quiet often dampers can be revived with a proper clean out and top up with fresh oil. Judging by the oil that comes out of "recon" dampers I am not sure they change it. Or if they do, they pour out the bit in the top reservoir (about half) and refill. A proper flush and refill can work well.

In my humble opinion the uprated valves aren't great value, but if you are happy with them just roll with it! The valves are uprated with a couple of little shims to adjust the preload. But the proper way to do it is to change the valve springs, I won't get into the details of how and why it alters the damping characteristics here, unless you want me to.

The recon dampers on midget I currently own had a different valve/spring in each of the four dampers. The ride was terrible. Refurbing them and making sure the valves were matched on each axle (Soft on the rear, stiffer on the front) worked wonders.

Cheers,
Malc.
Malcolm Le Chevalier

Thank you all for your comments.

Allan and Malc - that's a useful insight on the valves.

Malc - on the one unit that shows some leaking, it responds well to a top up. I guess this one needs new seals. The other one, from how you describe it, may be revivable as it can't be topped up further, but is still bouncy.

All the original Armstrongs are going to be worn to great or lesser extent, which made me think about the new ones.

To get a matched pair, it sounds as if I need to let the moths out of my purse!

Thanks again,

Peter Allen

Peter,
Matching pairs of dampers is not difficult, as adjusting the valves is also simple. To match them i just timed how long it took for full damper travel under load; i.e., a weight. I used an old fly wheel.
Take a look at this! http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/fs119.htm
The "GURU" also details the rebuilding and the pitfalls etc.
Allan Reeling

Hi Malc, do you do a kit for the rear shocks for a B 1980 roadster?

Regards Ray
Ray Bester

Hello Ray, I have this kit for rear B shocks:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172728576182?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Probably best you email me, chevalierclassics at gmail dot com to discuss shipping to SA.

Cheers,
Malcolm
Malcolm Le Chevalier

This thread was discussed between 19/06/2017 and 24/06/2017

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