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MG MGB Technical - Fuel pump noisy

I am posting this for my nieghbor.He is the owner of a 1975 MGB with a 1.8l.When the vehicle is running the fuel pump clicks very loudly all the time.I suggested that he replace the fuel pump.However it seems that that type of pump is not easily found. It is the pump that sticks partly in the trunk and out to the underbody of car.He told me he tried to find one like it but was told by someone that they don't make that type of pump for that car.Can anyone out there give some advise as to getting one of these pumps or a fix for this one? Thank you
Chris

Chris
tell your friend to go and enjoy driving his car. He only needs to worry when the pump doesn't tick because then it needs replacing...(or repairing)

Clive
Clive Skelhorn

Chris,
The fuel pumps are readily available for around $100 if he thinks he really needs a new one. It shouldn't click all the time, just most of the time. Any of the normal British car suppliers will have them on hand. Check Moss Motors www.mossmotors.com, Brit-tek www.brittek.com, ProperMG www.propermg.com, LBCarCo www.lbcarco.com
The part number for Moss & LBCarCo orders for his car is 377-165 for the pump with points, or 377-255 for one that is a solid state unit. They both look the same, sound the same, and either will work.
SteveO

Clive,I know that the pump should run all the time,It is just a lot louder than normal.He said it was never like that before.It would click for a minute then get quiet while he would be driving.
Steve, I will check out the site you sent me.
Thank you both for your help.
Chris

No, no, no.

Unless you somehow have an aftermarket pump - SU pumps are not
supposed to run & click all of the time.

The pump clicks only enough to keep the carburetter fuel bowl(s)
filled - then it stops. It'll click, briefly, each time the fuel level in the
carbs drops as you drive along.

It sounds like your pump is laboring continuously to keep the fuel system
pressurized. Assuming that there are no external leaks, this is usually due
to a cracked reed valve(s) inside the pump. These valves are made of a
very thin "+" shaped plastic and they develope hairline fatigue cracks
over time.

Best you replace the valves in pairs (in, out). It's a fairly easy, straight-forward
procedure, requiring a flat screwdriver and a strong Phillips screwdriver.

Victoria British and Moss sells the valves for this.

Daniel Wong

Dan,
Thank you.
I stand corrected.I am not very familier with these cars.I am a Ford man myself.I work on them all day long.
I am glad that there are people like you out there that can give me the proper advice.My nieghbor asked me for help and I didn't know what to tell him.I wasn't sure just how that system worked and without that knowledge it sure makes it hard.
I hate to sound stupid so it is best to not say anything at all until I have all the facts.
There is one thing I would like to know is how can you tell if it positive or neg ground.I think this one is neg ground but I don't have a wiring diagram to go by.
Thanks again,
Chris
Chris

78B is negative ground.
J Arthurs

I remember that a ex-colleague of mine had a BGT which had had the SU pump fitted with an after-market "pointless" electronic conversion. This used to tick continuously and was, I'll admit, somewhat annoying. Maybe this one's had the same treatment?
On a connected note, there is another option in fuel pump replacements. Moprod make a very cheap-looking plastic object that is the same shape and size as the SU and is solid-state. It has two major advantages for those not addicted to originality. It's cheap and it never goes wrong(!) I've got one in my 'B and my father has had one on his MK2 midget for 15 years now. For those who've not had the pleasure, the early Midgets have the pump mounted where no self-respecting electrical component can be expected to function correctly and before he discovered the Moprod item it used to eat an SU every 18 months or so.
Tim Cuthill

This thread was discussed between 30/06/2002 and 02/07/2002

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