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MG MGB Technical - Fuel Pump questions
fuel pumps; gotta love 'em. I have a problem with mine (2 years old) just shutting off. Usually when I take the cover off and give it a tap it will start working again. The previous owner said he had to change the fuel pump 3 times over the last 6 or 7 years. He has a 66 MGB too with an old rebuilt unit that has never give him any troubles. Claims that the newer units are not as good of a product and I should find an old rebuilt unit or find one and rebuild it myself. Any more advice out there? Anyone have a 25+ year old unit laying around I could get from them? BTW, I've done the usual things with checking the ground (it also has an extra ground running from the fuel pump to the negative terminal), etc. Cheers, Brian 1975 MGB |
Brian |
But . . . have you checked for rust in your fuel tank, getting in the fuel lines and clogging your pump? (Bet previous owner didn't, if he had to put a new pump in every two years. They should last longer than that!) |
Kim de Bourbon |
Okay, What would you all suggest for cleaning out the tank. I've seen some products in the Eastwood catalog. Any of those worth the money. Also how is the best way to drop the tank and flush the system. Thanks, BK |
Brian |
Did you check the points gap while you had the end cover off? Just wondering. "The Complete MGB" details how to service and set the points on the fuel pump. |
Daniel Wong |
The newer pumps with the diode quenching instead of capacitor should be better. I've had problems with the pointless type and gone back to the original. Next time it does it confirm that you have 12v and ground at the appropriate places on the pump before you give it a tap, 3 new pumps in 6 years and now this is very unusual and indicates another problem. Dirty fuel usually results in rapid pumping rather than non-pumping that can be cleared with a tap. |
Paul Hunt |
I just cleaned and sealed a 75 mgb tank. car had been off the road for 7 years. I used the kit from the finishedlook.com It worked out just fine. Where are you in sc? |
steve |
Never had any problems out of a 85 Honda Accord pump. There all I install. Bob Thompson |
Bob Thompson |
Brian: I have used the tank sealer from the POR15 people on an 83 Range Rover. It is described on their website. Worked great. You will have to remove the tank, the sending unit, and be careful to keep the fuel outlet and vent lines clear. I did not do any other prep other than clean out the tank with fresh gas and let it air dry overnight. You add the sealer and slosh it around inside to cover the leaks, usually at the seam on the top, and allow the excess to pour out from the filler. Again, avoid getting the compound into vent lines, outlets, and the drain hole because once it hardens, thats it. Be sure to have a new sending unit gasket and even the locking ring on hand, as these will probably be shot by the time you fight the sending unit off the tank. New packing strips, new mounting hardware, and POR15 on the tank and trunk floor may also be in order. Regards, Andy |
Andrew Blackley |
Summerville, SC outside of Charleston. |
Brian |
Speaking of gas tank cleaner kits. I used the Eastwood kit on a chevy II car that I used to own and it worked great. The only question I have though is what about the baffles that are in the tank of the MG? With the Eastwood kit you had to slosh around a solution and a chain, I envision that this would get caught up inside the tank? Is there something else that can clean it without the chain? Thanks |
Zach |
This thread was discussed between 12/08/2002 and 16/08/2002
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