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MG MGB Technical - Fuel Tank
I have to replace the fuel tank, sending unit and fuel pump on my 1972 roadster. I'd appreciate any input on the quality of the tanks available from Moss & Victoria. Moss seem to be more expensive, but I can pick up from their store and save the shipping cost. Is a solid state fuel pump worht the extra? |
Andy T |
Hi Andy! Just put a new tank in my '72 that I've been trying to get on the road for about two months now. When I ordered, Moss had two tanks available: an original maker and an after market. The difference in price was about $100. The salesman told me that they've gotten no complaints on the aftermarket, so I went with it. No problems so far; looked to be of good quality and does the job. Paid about $120. Chances are that Vicky Brit has the same suppliers. As far as the fuel pumps go, I don't have any experience with the solid state. I like the original style, as they can be rebuilt. That having been said, I've owned quite a few MGs and Triumphs and never had a fuel pump fail me. I always carry a spare, though, just in case... |
Brian |
Brian - The all electronic SU pump can be repaired just like the original. If the components on the circuit board are not available, the entire board can be replaced. Cheers - Dave |
David DuBois |
Today I finished the installation of a Moss aftermarket tank in my 67 BGT. The exterior is OK but there is no drain bolt and there are no baffles inside. For a street car it is probably not a big deal, but 100 pounds or more of fuel sloshing about could create problems. As for the pump, I am on the second one in more than 30 years. The current pump is on the second set of points. The first set was replaced as maintenance not failure. They are now my spare. |
Chris Butler |
I took an electronic (solid-state SU-type) off when it started causing me problems - when they go you are well and truly stuck. By contrast the pointy type usually give you plenty of warning of total failure by being able to be 'fixed' in the early stages with a smart clout with a small hammer or large screwdriver, and 10-15 years of life from each set of points should be enough for anyone. |
Paul Hunt |
I did this job about three years ago, using and Moss OEM style tank. It's been fine. A couple of tips; 1. Go for the new hardware kit 2. Protect the top of the tank against corrosion with several coats of rust proof primer. Lindsay Porter suggests Waxoyl-- your call. MG tanks rust from the outside in, with water collecting on the top of the tank. 3. Taking off the sending unit collar isn't a big deal, but I made up a special spanner wrench to do it. E-mail me off line and I'd be happy to loan it to you. Peter Van Syckle |
Peter Van Syckle |
Andy, There is a product widely available in the US called KREEM which is used for sealing the inside of fibreglass tanks (including fuel tanks) against leakage. It gets good reports from motorbike racers and the like so it might be worth a look. POR-15 is also a good product for the top of the tank between the tank and the boot floor which is a notorious rust trap on 'B's and a couple of coats on the front to protect from stone chips and road abrasion would be beneficial too. I have not used KREEM and have no connection with either the product or the company making it. I have used POR 15 but again have "no interest" as the expression goes. Cheers, Pete, Queensland, Australia. |
Peter Thomas |
My tank was removed because it had a leak. When I examined it, the 'leak' turned out to be an inward impact hole, say a screwdriver, presumably done by the no good mechanic who decided this was the quickest way of getting the tank drained of fuel, in order to take it off the car. (Refurbing) The tank looks OK, I can't say its fantastic because its covered in rust but it sounds OK metal wise. Should I, !! is it wise to get that hole welded up, or am I asking for trouble. |
John |
Yes it is possible to find an older radiator shop that will weld up your fuel tank , be sure you're not standing there watching as the BOOM when it happens is quite unnerving . I have a place that welds fuel tanks and never has any problems . -Nate |
Nate |
John, Buy a new tank. They don't cost that much and it will save you a lot of problems in future. If the tank is rusty outside, it's probably inside as well, which leads to problems with carbs getting gunked up with silt and rust. Then there's the safety issue as well. Is your life not worth £100? |
Hooks |
2 years ago, I took the tank off my 74 and found a small hole on the top. I fixed it with JB-weld. Last week, I took the tank off again, the fix is still there and seems to be holding up great. The hole was on the top so it was exposed to fumes mostly. I don't know if your screwdriver hole was n the top or bottom but I don't think I would "fix" a hole on the bottom of a tank. |
kids1 |
The hole is on the bottom of the tank. It's not the money which makes me ask the question, it's the fact that I have what to all intents and purposes, appears to be a strong, albeit rusty, tank sitting on the lawn, and if welding it up is an option, I would like to re-use it, but not if BOOM is in the equation. If those B******S who stripped it down for me could be traced, I'd be calling for Arnie to do his duty. Any further cautions, potions or cures guys. |
John |
RE:" have to replace the fuel tank, sending unit and fuel pump on my 1972 roadster. I'd appreciate any input on the quality of the tanks available from Moss & Victoria. Moss seem to be more expensive, but I can pick up from their store and save the shipping cost. Is a solid state fuel pump worht the extra" I replaced my tank last year with a new unit from brit-tek (www.brittek.com) for my '77 B-Roadster. The tank kit (tank, sending unit, hardware) was the same price as just the tank from Moss at the time. |
Scott K |
John- Page 59 of the current MGOC catalogue shows a corrosion-resistant fuel tank. It has a bright lead/tin coating that's applied by means of a hot dipping process. At 59.95UKP it looks like a good buy. The catalogue doesn't say if it has the internal baffles. Andy- When I was restoring my 1972 Roadster I purchased my fuel tank from Moss Motors. So far it has given excellent service. When you order yours, don't forget to order the packing strips (Moss Part# 9-8431). As Peter mentioned, put a corrosion-inhibiter on it before you install it. POR-15 is an almost bulletproof protective finish. If you're hard-pressed for money at the moment, don't despair about it. Simply put a few heavy layers of carnuba wax on it. Don't polish it, just smear it on heavy and let it dry to form a solid coating. I chose to install the solid state version of the SU fuel pump from Burlen Fuel Systems over in the UK. They sell the circuit board separately, so you don't have to buy a whole new pump if it fails. However, so far it hasn't missed a beat. It even clicks just like the points-type pump. Burlen has a website at http://www.burlen.co.uk/ Be warned, they're very slow to answer Email inquiries. A nice improvement over the OE system is to protect the fuel pump by fitting a transparent fuel filter between the tank and the pump. Yet another is to fit a petcock-style valve so that you can disconnect the fuel line without getting fuel all over your hands and the trunk (boot). |
Steve S. |
Steve S, Where precisely between the tank and the pump do you fit a transparent fuel filter. Inside the trunk or out What is a a petcock-style valve, and where are they sourced from. |
John |
John, The petcock type valve is like a water tap or the type of tap used on some motorcycles and allows you to close off the flow of fuel usually at the tank. They are usually situated at the outlet side of the fuel line and attached to the fuel tank and operation is by a small lever turning through ninety degrees. Very popular in vintage and veteran cars and also a damn good anti theft deterent even todat. Many cars have a similar arrangement somewhere in the cooling circuit, often at the base of the radiator and or engine block ,to allow complete draining of coolant. Availabilty? Most hardware suppliers can oblige and if you are getting one my thoughts would lean toward stainless steel over brass or bronze. By the way when you do fit it make sure it is not in a position where a stray rock can impact the handle and cut off the flow of fuel. It has happened. Cheers, Pete. |
Peter Thomas |
John- A liquid will always seek the lowest available level, so it will try to flow from the carburetor floatbowls back to the fuel tank via the fuel pump. Hence I installed the petcock-style valve right in front of the fuel pump, in the fuel feed line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetors. You should be able to get a petcock-style valve at an auto parts supply sore or through a vendor of speed parts. I put the fuel filter in the fuel feed line that runs from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. In my case I chose to locate it right next to the pump for easy visibility and protection from flying rocks. Mine has a glass housing (as does the one right in front of the carburetors) that permits easy inspection and is protected by a short section of transparent aquarium tubing. If the one in the trunk ever shows dirt, it'll be replaced by the one that protects the carburetors. The carburetors will then get the new filter. |
Steve S. |
Something I found interesting when I replaced my tank some years ago, was that every tank I had ever removed had the packing strips running parallel to the front to rear centerline of the car. This doesn't sound of much significance, but one thing I noted was that by placing those strips that way, only a small patch across the top of each reinforcing rib on the tank actually made contact with the under side of the car via the packing strips. The remaining portion of the packing strip simply laid in the valley between the ribs, and if you looked at the corrosion patterns, it looked as tho those packing strips aided in holding patches of dust and muck in place which also held water in place if it got in there, and restricted to some small extent the flow of air between the ribs. When I replaced my tank, I took the new packings and ran them along the tops of the tank ribs rather than the normal way, the theory being, that this might just allow debris a better chance to blow through and/or to dry out, with the possibility of less rusting. However, I admit that I hedged my bets by painting the top of the new tank with a heavy bodied epoxy paint. FWIW, I have had no obvious signs of rusting (gas smells) from the top of the tank since. Someday it may be interesting enough to me to pull the tank down and check it out to see if my theory was anywhere near reality and that corrosion was prevented. Just another experiment from Muenchausen's Garage. ;-) |
Bob Muenchausen |
Thanks guys, I've got the picture now. As I'm messing about with plumbing in the house right now, one of the things I've been doing is inserting what is called a service valve, into various copper pipes. This is an in-line coupling which has a cut-off valve so that if the taps etc have to be sorted out, a simple turn of a screwdriver turns the water flow off, and hey presto, a dry copper pipe. I wonder if such a valve would be OK for the MG, as it has no handle, is straight, compact and made out of brass. Incidentally, on the subject of leaky tanks, my mechanic swears by Plastic Padding who have a product called something like leak repair !!. Apparently it is VVG |
John |
One more note..I sprayed the bottom of my trunk on the underside (the bottom that faces the tank) with black undercoat spray from a can. This was done 2 yrs ago and it still looks great. I admit that I might have simply masked existing rust; I'll know in years to come. |
kids1 |
This thread was discussed between 02/06/2002 and 11/06/2002
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