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MG MGB Technical - Head gasket for 1974.5
In an earlier thread I learned that I will be needing to pull my head on my 74.5 mgb roadster due to a valve problem. I will want to change the head gasket. My quandry, as most catalogs do not list a head gasket for a 1974.5 MGB, only 1974 or 1975, which one do I use? I am guessing the 1974 as the 74.5 had the 2 carb set up. Would this be true for most engine parts for the 74.5, if it's not listed in a catalog as 74.5 would it be wise to use parts listed for 1974s? Also I found the Fel-Pro for about $29 or about $55 for a head gasket set. Do I need a head gasket set? |
John |
If you have Two SU or HIF carbs, then you want the set for a 74, If you only one Carb, you want the set for 75. |
George |
John; You will need most of the gaskets included in a head gasket set. Clifton |
Clifton Gordon |
I noticed that the Proper MG has a cylinder head rebuilding kit which includes gaskets, valves, springs, thermostat and manifold studs (and since I snapped one of the manifold studs I'll be needing them) for $129.50. Again the catalog does not mention 1974.5 models so I will buy the one for the 1974. |
John |
John. I would take the cylinder head to the machine shop you intend to use and let them tell you what you need. Many of the valves may not need replacing. If the valves do need to be replaced (all of them), you will probably want to replace valve guides also. Once again, the machine shop will have the necessary measuring tools to determine this. The gasket set you need is based on the engine you have, and you have a 1974 model engine. You either need the FelPro gasket set or one having the Payen resin gasket. The standard gasket kits have the older style head gasket. The resin type is much better in both my opinion (three rebuilds over the last five years) and in the opinions of the professional engine rebuilders I have contacted. As to the broken stud, there is a lot of information in the archives about this. Most of it boils down to "Have a good quality hex nut TIG/MIG welded to the remains of the stud, spray it down with penetrating oil, and it will be easy to remove". Have not tried this method myself, but, after reading about it contacted a friend who is a welder. He assured me he had used the process himself and it works well. Good luck with your project. Les |
Les Bengtson |
This thread was discussed between 18/04/2005 and 19/04/2005
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