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MG MGB Technical - How do you fit seat diaphragms?!!
I am in the process of upholstering the seats on my 1967 MGB and need to replace the rubber diaphragms on the bases. I went and bought the correct part, but I can only ever get 3 sides stretched adequately to allow the hooks to attach to the frame. Does anyone have any hints or tips from past experience that may make this job a little more likely?! Many thanks! Martin |
Martin Port |
I haven't done the job myself, but I imagine that the difficult part would be gripping the hook while trying to stretch the diaphragm. You could try using a loop of wire to pull on the spring...has been very successful in other applications. |
Dave O'Neill |
I seem to remember using a large pair of pliers, much force and several mugs of tea on that job. |
Steve Postins |
I meant to say use a loop of wire to pull on the HOOK |
Dave O'Neill |
I bought a tool at a local cheap-tool place called "Harbor Freight" -- it's for installing headlamp bucket springs and it's basically a T-shaped piece of metal with a small hook on the end. It made doing seat diaphragms a snap! |
Rob Edwards |
Just done it. Simple 5 min job. Before you start, stop, think and apply the law of the lever. From an off cut piece of square tubing, about 18 inches long, I drilled a 1/8 inch diameter hole 6 inches from the top. Took a 1/8 inch welding rod (or similar suitable stiff wire) and fabricated a long hook such that it fitted the hole and was 1/4 inch longer then the pipe when laid along it. The hooks were 90 degrees to each other. To operate the lever, place the bottom of the pipe next to the hole on the frame which you want to put the clip into, lift the handle up, hook the clip onto the wire hook, push down the handle, pulling the clip over the hole. Moving the handle sideways aligns the clip. Push the clip into the hole, let back the handle and unhook the wire hook from the clip. No sweat, no tears, no tea. Richard. |
RH Davidson |
Martin, Cut some strong string and make a loop (old baling twine is good) hook into the loop and pull hard till you get the hook into the hole in the frame. Cut the string and start again. Simple realy. |
roger lawson |
I used a large pair of mole grips to grip the hooks, and was able to heave them into position OK. Do the front last and have the seat against a wall and use your legs to brace the seat as you pull. easier than it sounds! Iain |
I D Cameron |
Hair dryer helped with mine, as well. |
John Z |
When I did this job, I made a tool by filing a deep notch in a large straight-blade screwdriver. Using that tool, I was able to push the wires into place in about 5 minutes. |
David Pash |
I used a heat gun and the brake spring tool. It is the one grips the spring with a hook and screws in to closed the gap. |
Shareef Hassan |
Martin, I used a dent puller hook that's used to pull dents out of sheet metal. Worked fine . Did mine in the summer so I didn't have to warm the diaphragm up. Tony |
Tony Shoviak |
I did the same as Roger with the addition of wrapping the string around a suitable tool handle to avoid it cutting into my hand. BarryQ |
B.J. Quartermaine |
Thanks everyone. I used a bit of old mains lead flex looped around the hook, then put the frame on the floor so that I could lever it against my foot. Job was done in a couple of minutes for each diaphragm and a couple of hours later the seats were recovered as well. Should go back in the car tonight ready for a commute in the morning! Martin |
Martin Port |
Having done this a few times now the easiest way I have found is the aforementione loop of wire to pull the hook. Sit on the ground, brace your feet against the frame and pull. If you pull at the right angle the tip of the hook will drop right into the hole. |
Paul Hunt 2 |
This thread was discussed between 28/11/2006 and 29/11/2006
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