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MG MGB Technical - How much paint?
|I am getting ready to paint two MGs, one will be a bare metal respray of a bare shell with etch primer, filler primer and top coat. The other will be a colour change, underbonnet and in the boot will be sprayed, under the car and inside, under carpets etc., will not (yet - that can wait until a full rebuild is necessary).|
Now, how much paint will I need for each car? It is many years since I have sprayed a car and I have no idea how much paint to buy.
Also, the colour change car, we will be sanding down the original white paint, priming and spraying yellow, should I use a filler primer or an etch primer?
If using cellulose you need 5ltrs colour, 5ltrs grey high build primer and a couple of litres of etch, the amount of etch depends on the amount of bare metal, but 2ltrs should be enough for one coat on a completely bare car.
If your paint gun and compressor are inefficient, ie pressure control is poor and you vapourise a lot of paint you might need a bit more.
If you are painting over existing paint you don't need etch primer, it's meant for etching into bare metal, degrease and flat the paint and use grey primer, also check for paint compatibility by testing on a small area first.
These quantities are for a roadster, a GT will need a bit more.
|I used approximately 6 quarts of DP90 to seal my bare shell and all the suspension and other miscellanious components (with 3 coats.) The amount of paint and primer/filler shouls be slightly less.|
|I have just completed a bonnet respray using a cheapo Wagner " HVLP Control Spray" rig purchased at HD on a whim and hope ( $63). I used an activated sealer then 4-5 color coats, wet sanded with 1500 before clear. The gun laid down an absolutely flat coat in my basement on a 80 degree, dry day. I prep-soled the surface after sand, at about 30 minutes after last color coat and started the 5 coat clear.I gave it about 20-25 minutes between coats to tack. Last coat was heavy and wet, lapping only about 25 % for a pretty heavy build up. I thought I'd blown it and was going to run, turned out the lights and came back next day. I could not believe how flat the clear was....like glass, with only a couple of mosquitos caught for posterity. Placed it in the sun for 3 days and wet sanded with 2500, then McQwire 3 step buff and the panel is show quality!. I plan to do the MGA rebuilt, piece by piece like that and then assemble. The beauty of the base/clear system is you can correct any sprayer error in either layer. If your base is orange peel, you just knock it down with 1500 wet and recoat until perfect. Same with the clear. On bare metal restores, I cannot recommend the 2k primer-filler enough. It literally bonds with the metal, and is pale yellow to boot. Use a clear sealer and the color/clear system on top and you'll be a happy cat. 6 quarts of color, same or more on clear should be enough. The color coat should not be built up, but after sanding, just enough to cover. Assume you'll sand and buff the clear using min 6 passes with last coat wet. Nowadays, with attention to prep and mix directions, any idiot ( i'm the proof) can put out a really high quality respray........|
|Ron, if celluose means lacquer, it's very hard to come by in the States now. I did find a place that would sell me a pint for $40 or so...geez!|
Cellulose is getting harder to get in this country as well, my local auto paint factor only stocks basic colours, anything else needs to be ordered, it's about £12/ltr for reasonable quality, but it is the easiest [and safest] for home spraying and personally I prefer the look of it on old cars, the modern 2 pack paints look too shiny and plastic for my liking.
|When I repainted my midget (full color change inside and out) I bought a gallon of primer and finish coat and had about a pint and a half left over for touchups. A B being slightly larger should take the whole gallon unless you're doing a GT which would take about a quart more. Stick with a primer sealer for covering the old paint. An acid etch primer is best used for bare metal.|
This thread was discussed between 27/08/2005 and 29/08/2005
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