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MG MGB Technical - How to replace the gas tank?
Could someone tell me how to remove the gas tank? (It's the bolt-on type, not the really early strap-on type.) I am going to replace my rusty tank with a new repro one I bought from Proper MG. In that regard, I had the outside of the new one powdercoated to hopefully inhibit rust; should I do anything to the inside? ... is the metal inside just bare and uncoated? ... I notice Moss sells a slushing compound for gas tanks ... should I put some of that in? Also, is this a dangerous operation or anything? |
Sam Williams |
Sam, It is very easy. Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the fuel feed line at the tank. Disconnect the fuel filler hose. Forgot a step. If the tank is real full you will need to drain it first. A gallon or two won't matter much. The tank itself has 8 bolts (from memory may be more or less) half of which bolt from inside the trunk and half from underneath. Support the tank with a hydraulic jack and a piece of plywood or something similar. Unscrew all the bolts. Take the tension off the jack and the tanks own weight should break it free. You shouldn't need to treat the inside of the tank. It won't be dangerous if you take normal caution regarding not smoking or creating any kind of a spark. |
Ron Russell |
Sam, I just replaced mine with one from Proper MG and it was fairly easy to do just as Ron says. However, my old filler pipe didnot line up with the spout on the new tank. I still have not resolved this issue. The spout on the new tank is not the same angle (it's straighter up) as the old one. I would be interested to know if yours works out. Also , has anyone else had this problem? Something else I was dissapointed in, is the new tank does not have a drain plug. I understood the new tank was suppose to be OEM. Does yours have a drain plug. My email address is paulscanup@velocenet.net. Paul - '69 MGB GT |
Paul |
Paul, Nope, no drain plug in mine either. That's OK though ... we can just use the fuel pump to drain it, no? Boy, I hope that spout lines up; I'm gonna be really pissed if it doesn't. *Why* do these manufacturers change dimensions on us so it's such a PITA to make it work? |
Sam Williams |
"*Why* do these manufacturers change dimensions on us so it's such a PITA to make it work?" You get the right tank for your year! Modern manufacturers and cars change their specs far more often than MG did. |
Paul Hunt |
Why not take the stress off that little pump and syphon out as much gas as you can through the filler tube? I took out the sender unit, catching what little gas there was in a bucket, on a tank with no drain plug. you did say you were replacing the present tank, right? Ken R |
Ken Rich |
Sam- The aforementioned suggestions are quite good, but here's an afterthought- Check to make sure that the powdercoat hasn't plugged the screen that is supposed to keep debris from getting to the oil pump. Also, before you install the fuel tank, rustproof it to protect your investment. If you don't want to shell out for special rustproofing, smear a very heavy coat of carnuba wax all over the top and sides. Don't try to polish it, just leave it as it is when it dries. It may not be pretty, but it works well enough. |
Steve S. |
Just to add to the conversation. I changed my tank on a MKI '67 GT a short while back. The actual change over was no problem however getting the original nuts off was an absolute b$!&*#d. I had to drill & hack off 4 of them. That was my only problem with the whole procedure. And the tank I changed was a replacement tank. Thanks to a PO. Donal |
Donal |
This thread was discussed between 22/08/2002 and 25/08/2002
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