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MG MGB Technical - Jobs when the engine is out

I want to pull the engine from my car and tidy up the engine bay as well as check out and probably replace the clutch. What other jobs should I do on the engine while it is out apart from the mounts and clean and paint? I don't have a lot of cash to spend on a rebuilt yet unfortunately so I just need to know the "should check" stuff. The car is a de-americanised 1978 B. Ta!

Simon
Simon Jansen

Oil Pan and Tappet cover gaskets for sure, if you are doing the clutch then a rear oil seal. I would probably replace the front oil seal as well. A little difficult doing when it is in the car. Part wise they are all pretty cheap but the time is the factor.

As far as cleaning out the Engine Bay, in an effort to have one color in there (in my case many oversprayed layers from previous years) I would consider painting it a flat black after a good cleaning. I did it with the engine in and stripped most of the parts off of the block. It would be much easier with it out. Used a "buzz Box" electric sprayer with a paint called Omron 4000.

Eric
'73B
Eric Willis

Cut the bulb off of the drain tube that runs down from under the heater tray. These always get full of leaves and other crud and then when it rains, the water collects in the heater cavity and comes out the heater vents and onto the floor inside. Just a thought, I know do it to every MG that I get.
Jake

The first time I pulled the engine in my 78 MGB, I thought it would be a great time to clean up the engine bay.

Before I knew it, I had EVERYTHING out of the bay and was prepping it for paint!

A little over-kill....but the end result was nice!

You may want to have the radiator boiled out if you do not know the history of the car. Now is also an ideal time to change the oil in the transmission, as it is out of the car (most likely). Replace the engine mounts. They're cheap. Ditto on the transmission mounts.

There are a LOT of little things you can do...they will become apparent to you.

GOod luck!

rick
1978 MGB
1969 MGC
1974.5 MGB/GT V8 conversion
rick ingram


Simon,

I'm in the middle of a 5 speed conversion and having a clean up. Bit obvious but check your ring gear teeth, better now than later!

Sure there is a lot on this in the archives.

Regards,

John
John Underwood

While the engine is out is also a good time to do any work you think may need to be done to components along the firewall.

The heater is MUCH easier to work on while you are standing in the engine compartment as are the Brake/Clutch M/Cs and associated plumbing. Also a good time to check out and correct things like wiring routing and condition (especially the cables connecting to the starter motor), the fuse block, your speedo cable and its right-angle drives, and certainly a good time to renew or fixup wipers and wiper drive boxes.

Also, it is a good time to install, if you wish, things like relays for your headlighting up under the hood latch panel up front or to simply clean up and make good connections for all the front lighting connectors. A little dielectric grease smeared on each bullet as it is shoved into its tube connector will keep splash and weather up front from corroding those connections for a long time.

Also, you might want to take the opportunity to check out the hood latch mechanism and clean/lube/adjust it. The horns and oil cooler (if you have one) are more readily available for maintenance at this time.
Bob Muenchausen

I'm with Rick, I kinda went nuts and redid my engine bay completely. It wasn't too hard to strip and repaint. And cost wise other than cleaner and paint, it wasn't terribly expensive, just time consuming. I re-wrapped the wiring harness. Pulled and cleaned all the electrical componets. Pulled and rebuilt the heater. I ended up replacing the Clutch and Brake MC's just becuase I could. My engine bay now looks fab! Also, I dropped the front end and redid that too! I've had to stop myself from taking it apart, until I get my current projects done.

It can get addicting!
J Moore

Here are a few things that stand out in my mind:

1) Upgrading the spring to the oil pressure
regulator. Left rear side of engine, down low.
Although this is an optional surgery - it is a
REAL ordeal to fiddle with while the engine is
in the car!!!

2) Inspect the coolant jacket core plugs on the
engine block - ESPECIALLY the one that is
at the most rear (between the rear plate).
99.99% of the time, they are fine. But if there's
even the slightest sign of leakage....

3) For LHD cars - putting in a new steel hydraulic
line for the clutch. Some folks reroute and
modify it's bends near the pedal box in order
to make bleeding less frustrating. This may
not be an issue with RHD cars, however.

4) If you have a dodgy reverse light switch or OD
lockout switch on the transmission, it's easier
to check, adjust, or replace them now. Check
the transmission breather, too, while you are
there (it's the plastic "thingy" on the shifter
housing)

5) Replacing the clutch, huh? Be sure to also
replace the rear main seal as well as the seal
for the transmission input shaft and front cover
gasket. You ARE replacing the throwout
bearing, too...right? How's the clutch slave
hose?
Daniel Wong

Thanks for all that tips. As Rick says I hope they become apparent.

I am almost ready to pull the engine and transmission now. Two things though. I forgot to make the prop shaft orientation when I unbolted it :(

And I can't quite tell how to remove the engine mountings? There are bolts everywhere and on the right hand side the steering column seems to go right through the engine mount! That rubber mount isn't sitting flush. This car has been converted from LHD to RHD so I am not sure how things are supposed to be or if it was done properly?

This is on a 1978 car. I believe the steering is a little different between chrome and RB cars?

Simon
Simon Jansen

Hi Simon

Pinion shaft does indeed go through the mount bracket.

Pinion shaft in a RB car is longer, and the steering column is shorter. This it to relocate the universal joint so that it clears the rear exhaust pipe on a V8.

Prop shaft orientation is not a big issue unless you dismantle the sliding joint as well. Reassemble so that both yokes on the drive sahft are in the same plane.

Take the weight of the engine with your lifting gear and undo all the nuts on the front mounts. Its the rear ones that are going to cause you hassles....

Cheers
ian f
Ian Fraser

Danny's comments reminded me that you should check the condition of the clutch fork, its pivot bearing, etc. By this point in time, an original fork may well have ovalled its pivot hole and the throw out bearing pivots may have also done a number on the clutch fork where they ride. If you do have wear there, you don't have to scrap the fork, just take it to a decent machine shop and have them braze in the wear spots and then rebore these areas as new. There is a new bushing for the main pivot and I believe we can still get them. Also, the main pivot bolt may have worn badly, and you might as well order a new one if you order the bushing. Just make sure you grease them (but not excessively) when you reassemble.
Bob Muenchausen


Just another thought, things to do while your engine is out.....

You may have to rebuild your garage if you hang your lifting gear from one of those rafters!!

:)

Ian F

Ian Fraser

OK, engine mounts. WTF?!?!? I couldn't quite tell how these things were working. All the bolts seemed to be in different ways and although I could loosen a lot I could not remove them as they get stuck against the engine. Couldn't loosen the non steering shaft side single bolt that is inside the bracket but the steering shaft side one seemes to be totally loose already.

Funnily enough the gearbox ones were easy except for the front of the engine stay rod which seemed too long. I could undo the bolt but couldn't withdraw it and remove the rod without taking the plate off the gearbox.

Bob, I need to fully check out the clutch. The clutch hose bracket has broken off and someone replaced the flexible hose with a rigid copper pipe! The slave boot was ripped and when I pulled the slave off the little metal tubes that fell out of it were all rusty!

I am just hoping that tomorrow morning when we pull the engine everything just comes apart!

Seriously, when I look at some things on the MGB like gearbox mounts, engines mounts, heater controls, windscreen rubbers, etc I figure the designers back in those days were just totally taking the piss!

Simon

P.S. Ian, car is in the car port as I broke a fuel pipe where it goes into the carb. The car hasn't moved since I got it. Been doing everything with the car NOT jacked up and lying on my back in gravel outside, in the dark, being eaten by mozzies! Hiring an engine lifter tomorrow then hopefully me and some mates can then push the carcass into the garage where I will have the luxury of working on a nice, flat, cold concrete floor :)

Simon Jansen

OK, engine is out. The steering side mount wasn't bolted in at the bottom at all!

Now how do I tell how worn a release bearing is? And what does it mean if it seems to have worn off centre?

SImon
Simon Jansen

Simon wrote: Now how do I tell how worn a release bearing is? And what does it mean if it seems to have worn off centre?

From the way you described how the engine was bolted up, and how loose it was I'm betting the release bearing could've been jarred about by the loosely mounted engine. It could also mean that it wasn't aligned properly. Basically just replace it. I'd also recommend that you go out and buy new bolts for the engine and transmission mounts, the correct ones for your car will make re-installing abit easier. The bracket for the clutch is easily had through Moss, and I'd buy a set of braided steel lines to replace the weaker rubber hoses on your car. I'd aso consider getting a new banjo for the clutch since it may be damaged bt the PO's uh 'work'. Since the engines gonna be out for awhile I'd take a hard look at the transmission tunnel for rust or damage. I've found that transmission tunnels have a nasty tendency of rusting badly. You can also take this time to clean it up throughly and apply some brushable truck bedliner to the area for sound dampening.

Hope this helps.
CJD
CJD Dark

Thanks CJD,

I'll just replace whatever looks easily replacable I think. Just to be sure. Other thing that I noticed was some play on the release fork. The manual just says check it is not excessive. How much is excessive?

What part is the clutch banjo?

Simon
Simon Jansen

The engine is also out of my 79 MG-B. It has been torn down and happy to say no real surprises. Yes, with 96,900 miles, the engine was tired. Somewhere over the years, the rod bearings were replaced in #2. The other bearings were spent close to the copper. The rings fell off #2 & #3 pistons. The clutch had been replaced but the flywheel was never cut resulting in a groove cut into the disc. Head gasket blown between 2-3.

Plan "A": Overbore .030, replace pistons from the low compression "dished" style,and replace cam to a street performance grind. Replace all seals and gaskets as well as the freeze plugs. Paint engine to its original red with black valve cover and oil pan, then reinstall with a new clutch kit and fresh cut flywheel

The rest of the car gets new brakes all around including rotors and then completely flush the system as well as the clutch line, replace all rubber hoses and then enjoy springtime.

Somewhere along the road the soft top canvas need to be replaced. Then I should be a solid #2 condition daily driver with original paint and interior

Any one have any suggestions to increase life and durability while the car is apart?? Please feel free to share your thoughts with me and the rest of our MG-B owners.

cheers

Gary

79 MG-B
gary n.hansen

Oh wow, this is an old thread but I have almost the same question 8 years on! After getting the engine out there came a 6 year total rebuild of the car! That's all described here: http://www.asciimation.co.nz/pics/page25.html

Been driving her about the last couple of years and she is great but wouldn't you know it, the one thing I didn't restore, the gearbox, has gone wrong. The synchros went on third. I do have several old OD boxes to rebuild but after a few months double clutching all the time (which I enjoy actually) I have finally sorted out a rebuilt OD box to replace my knackered non OD one which should be arriving any day now. When I rebuilt the car I put the wiring for an OD box in place as I always planned to upgrade.

So, the question now is what should I look at when replacing the gearbox and have the engine out given that the car has only done about 6000km? I'll have to see how the release bearing is holding up I guess. But I am guessing ti might be better to leave everything else alone as it is basically still 'new'.

I do need to repaint the block. I suffered extreme overheating I only cured a few months ago when I took the water pump off to find a casting defect deep inside the inlet port that blocked off 90% of the water flow!

Simon
Simon Jansen

I missed the date when I first started reading it!

Yeah, I got a bit carried away, too...


Dave O'Neill2

Well, I shouldn't need to go that far this time. I am assuming a week off the road, not 6 years! I can give the engine bay a good wash though without the engine there.

Apologies for those who have re-read all of this. I forgot this BBS posts newest comments last!

Simon
Simon Jansen

I was glad to get to the end as well - at first I thought "Oh no, Simon's starting all over again with another one!".

Cheers,
David
David Overington

Hi David, well, actually I did start all over again. Different type of car though!

http://www.asciimation.co.nz/austin7/

Simon
Simon Jansen

One word of caution if you are going to repaint the engine compartment. If you were running silicon brake fluid, a paint you can add fisheye remover to is a good idea. I can pretty much guarantee you have silicon on the paint and that will give you really bad fidgeted
Bruce Cunha

Well, engine came out, engine went back in. No problems. Am still putting everything back on it though. I changed the release bearing since I could. Rear oil seal was good. Everything else was good too. Even the tappet covers aren't leaking. The input shaft on the old GB was though which explains my persistent oil leak.

We used a chain block over a beam across the rafters in my garage and between lifting the engine and moving the car underneath we got it out and in fine. Even the dreaded rear cross member just went straight back on.

Might have been easier to fill the GB with oil before I put it in though....
Simon Jansen

This thread was discussed between 16/03/2004 and 25/08/2012

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