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MG MGB Technical - Lowering Blocks

I want to drop the rear of my 1978 MGB GT and have been looking at these lowering blocks Moss sell,

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/MossUK/ProductList.aspx?SubSubCategoryID=MGB_UMGB-302

Would these fit my model okay, anyone ever used them?

I have priced up lowered leafsprings but my current are virtually new so want to avoid changing them.

Thanks,
Gavin
Gavin J

Gavin,

I ordered a set of these for my '77 V8 roadster conversion project to try and get the height down. They only made a slight difference. As well, I really didn't like having them there as they just don't look right.

I ended up getting a set of "reverse-loop" springs that have dropped the height to about 25.5" measured to the top of the body line (where the chrome strip goes). This is within 1/2" of where my stock '74 roadster sits.

Since you have newer springs, you might consider getting them re-arched by a reputable spring shop. A buddy of mine with another V8 had his springs re-arched and has had no problems. Fairly inexpensive as well.

HTH
Simon
Simon Austin

Don't quote me on this - find out from someone who knows better - but I think you can lower the car by dismantling the spring and turning the top leaf upside down. I've never seen it done, but I'm sure I read about it somewhere.

Mike H
Mike Howlett

The blocks will work, however by spacing the axle center line further from the spring you may increase the tendency for axle hop. I used blocks on my midget when I replaced the rear springs without any problem. Just make sure the U-bolts are properly torqued and check them perodically.
Bill Young

I've had the blocks installed in my '77 B for a few years now and am very happy with them. However, I haven't been able to find what the proper torque amount is for the U-bolts. I just make sure they aren't coming off periodically as I don't want to over tighten them. Can anyone tell me what the torque number should be?
Thanks,
Mark Rotsky
Mark Rotsky

It is not specified anywhere but the nuts sould be nylock ones and I torque them up to 25 ft lbs.
Chris at Octarine Services

Nylock is an excellent suggestion for that application.

Thanks Chris.
Mark Rotsky

Sorry to go off topic but you the same Gavin J off Retro Rides
nathan

Yes Nathan ;)

Cheers for thw replies, looks like i'll invest in some!
Gavin J

I've use one inch lowering blocks and I also redrilled the spring hangers at the front of the rear springs which wasn't particularly hard to do. About 45mm up to the chrome bumper location. Be aware that the edges of the hangers aren't particularly symetrical so don't measure from the edge. Use a centre punch and drill pilot holes etc. because of the awkward angle.
This plus the blocks got the car dead level and made a radical improvement to the handleing.
Those blocks look pretty expensive, see if Simon will sell you his?.
Peter

Sorry, already sold them.

Price on the above web-site works out about the same as I paid, $115 CDN.

I drilled new holes as Peter mentions. Used a "right-angle" drill to get into the tight spot. Now I can use the old holes for a set of traction bars if needed.
Simon Austin

The late model leaf spring mounts are about 1" lower which makes the car higher. The bump stop is also lower.
Lowering blocks or a decambered spring or combi results in less rear axle travel than an early car. With a lowered spring (decambered - not lowering blocks) the link to the shock should also be shortened.
I cut open the late model bump stop "crescent" and the original frame is still there underneath. You can cut out the late bump stop and get the original frame clearance. You will have to attach a nut to the original frame to mount the bump stop at the chrome bumper height.
Lowering in front with the late model cross member and lowering in back, without modifying the mounts and bump stops, results in less axle up and down range than an early model would have at the same ride height.
Barry
Barry Parkinson

Interesting to note Barry's remark about the old bump stop location, and he's right about shortening the shocker arms if you shorten or shift the bump stop.
I didn't, just left it as it was. An inch less travel but I don't really notice it.
Peter

This thread was discussed between 30/01/2005 and 16/02/2005

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