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MG MGB Technical - MGB V8 brake pads +

Alright, I've gone through the archives and the overall best pads for the street seems to be either the original pads or the V8 replacements.

My priorities are...

#1 I don't want brake squeal

#2 I don't want to throw off the factories front to rear balance in braking adversely.

Now, I like the braking of the original pads as it is, but there are some rolling hills around here so I'm thinking that I would benefit from the V8 pads resistance to fade AND squeal while actually improving braking power slightly. Can anyone point out any negatives with this option that I may have missed?


I also read that Moss offers some "anti squeal strips". Are these better than the loctite or permatex anti squeal pastes?

While I'm at it, I thought I'ld look to see if I had braided lines in the car but I cant tell for sure. Did the english original equipment rubber lines have a texture molded onto the hose resembling a braided line? Can someone confirm this?
I touched it with a magnet but it didn't stick. I tried cleaning it to see if it shines but it doesn't. I think its strictly rubber line but im not sure.
BurgerCokeFries

I have been very pleased with my EBC Greenstuff pads. Only downer is the black dust seems reluctant to leave the wire wheels.
Stan Best

I've read that the greenstuff pads do take a tad more effort over the original pads. I also read that the greenstuff start to squeal once they get worn down.

The sintered V8 pads make a lot of sense to me. I just don't want to have to make any modifications to anything to make them fit. I read something about the clips that go on the back of the pads not centering correctly?

With a 20% improvement in braking I'm thinking the factory front to rear balance might still be ok, or is that significant enough to throw it off?
BurgerCokeFries

There are essentially three options for high performance brake friction material. The first and perhaps the most commonly available material marketed for a high performance street application are the Carbon Metallic compounds such as those marketed by Hawk. These seem to come in two categories: those suitable only for racing and those suitable only for street use. Those suitable for street use have a coefficient of friction of .36mu, which is too small an increase in performance (11%) over that of Original Equipment materials to make them worth the additional expense. In addition they produce a black brake dust that is difficult to remove. The second choice is the Semi-Organic/Semi-Metallic type. These produce less brake dust than Carbon Metallic materials. While being more heat resistant than organic compounds, they also have a superior coefficient of friction of .48 mu, a fifty percent improvement over the .32 mu of the Original Equipment material. These are available from Carbotech Engineering. They have a website at http://www.carbotecheng.com . While these may be popular, there is another material which has an equivalent coefficient of friction, but yet an even greater resistance to heat: the Carbon Kevlar type (F 1,050). These are available from TSI Automotive (Pads- Part # CKPMGA/B, Shoes- Part # CKSMGA/B). They have a website at http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com . Be advised that whatever material that you choose for the front brakes should also be used on the rear brakes as well so that the coefficients of friction will be equal, otherwise one pair will prematurely lock up under heavy braking.

It is possible that under the heavy braking loads generated by stronger brakes the rear brakes may lock up prematurely, creating tail drift. This can be tuned out of the braking system by installing a proportioning valve into the rear braking system of the Roadster model or by changing the slave cylinders of the GT model to those of the Roadster model with their smaller diameter pistons. The latter change will require exchanging the rear brake backplate in order to fit the different size slave cylinders. Another solution is the fitting of tires with more grip, although this can be said to be treating the symptom rather than the cause.
Steve S.

Thank you, Steve S.
Paul Hanley

I've been using the Mintex V8 pads for 5 years with no ill effects and noticably improved braking. There is no squealing, warm up time, or front to rear imbalance. This is on a '67 Roadster with a supercharger that I have owned for 35 years. Ray
RAY

Mine is a roadster too. Did you experience any problems with the installation?, specifically the centering of the clips on the back of the pads?
I already know about them being handed, and I'm hoping the instructions are going to be clear on this.

Steve S, I ran across that same post several times in the library, thanks.
BurgerCokeFries

For the past four years I have been using MGB V8 Mintex pads in my 1974 MGB. There has been a modest improvement in the braking but I have not been happy with the brake dust deposited on my front Mini Lites.
A recent check I made told me It was time to replace them because they were about gone. I did so with original equipement pads. The high cost of the V8 pads
and brake dust sent me back to the originals. I am a conservative driver and with the lower power of the MG
they seem OK to me. I am thinking about green stuff Pads in the future,however.
BOB EKSTRAND

Reading through the library, I got a mixed message in regards to brake dust with the V8 pads. Are you certain about that, or could it just be the coloration of the dust that possibly make it more visible?

This might be a good trade off for me, although it isnt like the car sees a lot of steep roads. Maybe I will stay with the originals afterall.
BurgerCokeFries

RAY, did you notice any significant difference in the amount of dust on the wheels?
BurgerCokeFries

forget it RAY, I just found an old post of yours that answers my question. I think im going to stay with the original style pads and just upgrade to braided lines. Thanks.
BurgerCokeFries

For the record, the Mintex V8 pads do produce a lot of dust. My chrome wire wheels are in need of cleaning once again. Ray
RAY

BCF-
Read more closely. The last paragraph was revised just for you. By the way, CRC Brakleen does a great job of removing brake dust. Just be sure to protect the tires as the stuff is very hard on rubber.
Steve S.

This thread was discussed between 18/06/2007 and 22/06/2007

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