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MG MGB Technical - Mk1 Steering Wheel Removal
I decided to remove my steering wheel today, as the boss could do with repainting. Having removed the hornpush, I discovered that the horn contact is located in the centre of the column, which means that the John Twist method - hit it with a hammer - cannot be used. I was also surprised at the size of the nut...1-5/16" |
Dave O'Neill2 |
Fortunately for me, the steering wheel and column are currently out of the car, so I was able to employ the services of an 11mm socket and a 10-ton press. As you can see, the wheel only just fits between the side frames. |
Dave O'Neill2 |
I just couldn't live without my 12 ton press. Fortunately, when I had to remove my '67B's steering wheel, it came off with very little effort. In the 40 years that I've owned this car, I must have installed and removed at least six different steering wheels. The stock wheel is just a little too big for me. 14" or 364mm seems just right for me. RAY |
rjm RAY |
Hitting the centre of a later steering column is not such a good idea as you can damage the collapsible section. And as you say, the early column has the contact in the middle. I have always found that slackening off the nut (not removing it) and then pulling up on the wheel, first one side then the other, has released the wheel in every MG I've ever owned. I know that sometimes that won't work, but it always has for me. |
Mike Howlett |
It would be interesting to gather up the numbers of broken noses and teeth as a result of taking steering wheels off these cars - and other BMC ones, most were the same design! |
Hal Adams |
That's why you slacken the nut but don't remove it! |
Mike Howlett |
This thread was discussed between 18/11/2012 and 20/11/2012
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