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MG MGB Technical - negative camber wishbones
Any benefit in fitting these to a lowered R.B.GT with a 185 hp V8 conversion? rgds Trevor Burnett |
t burnett |
I replaced my worn out wishbones with a set of neg. camber ones. Personally I don't like the look of them. 5 degs of neg camber is a bit too much for a road car in my oppinion. I'm now looking to repair/modify the old ones to give about 2-3 degs. One benefit is that the steering became much lighter. I'm using 195/65 tyres on 6" rims so the tyre area on the road is reduced quite a lot which probably accounts for the reduced steering effort. Barrie E |
Barrie Egerton |
Hi Barrie,what is the distance that the bolt hole extends compaired to the std. wishbones?how much would you anticipate the extended distance of the hole for a 2 to 3 degree neg. camber? I am planning to modify my existing wishbones using a welded in disc but not too sure what distance to extent the hole,any thoughts? |
t burnett |
Trevor A sugestion - Slot out the ends of your original arms by about half a bolt hole. Make up reinforcing plates with a bolthole that yust fit neatly between the returns on the arms and take it and get it wheel aligned before welding. The bolts can be tightened up by your wheelaligning expert at your required camber setting and then you can weld the plates to the arms to hold it all where it is set. Personally I would run it at -.8 to -1deg Camber there is no need for any more than -1deg. I'd get it checked before you start cause' rubber bumper B's with lowered springs to get them down to chrome bumper height or lower usually have their fair share of neg camber anyway Willy |
WilliamRevit TasmaniaAustralia |
Trevor, My c/b Roadster has negative camber and it works very well, it has c/b GT front springs. On my r/b GT with lower front springs it didn't work, the steering somehow was not as responsive and it didn't have the turn in grip that I get on the c/b car. In both cases this was with the same 185/70 tyres on similar rims. The c/b car has a bigger steering wheel and different rack & pinion ratio and perhaps this was something to do with it. John. (Yorkshire, UK) |
JW Prewer |
t burnett, I can't get an accurate measurement while the arms are in situ. An eyeball estimation would be about 9/16" further outward. Willy's solution seems quite feasable. Mine would be a more "trial & error" method.I intend to weld up the original hole & then weld a 1 & 1/8" washer at the end of the arm, for added strength, then drill through the washer. This will move the hole 5/16" outward from the original. I tried to post a couple of pix of how the car looks with the neg. arms fitted, but they're too large & I've forgotton how to reduce them. I have succeeded in the past to post pix, but I suspect it was more good luck than good management. Barrie E |
Barrie Egerton |
This thread was discussed between 12/07/2009 and 15/07/2009
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