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MG MGB Technical - New clutch woes

Hello members,

Just re-installed the engine/trans on my 67' after a clutch replacement. This car has the 3 synchro transmission.
I replaced the throw out bearing, clutch disc/pressure plate, spigot bush, ring gear, clutch fork bolt and bush and most gaskets/seals on the transmission.
When attempting to install the clutch slave cylinder, I noticed that the push rod (Moss 180-200) hole and the holes in the clutch for where off by 1/2" or so. The clutch fork moves but in the wrong direction. Attempting to move the clutch fork so the holes line up is futile, the fork doesn't move.

-Did I install the clutch fork wrong way around?

Any help would be most welcome!

Regards,

Steve Brooks
Steve Brooks

Steve. Hope all is going well, other than the problems with the car.

The clutch fork only goes in two ways--the open end facing forwards (correct way) and the open end facing backwards (incorrect way). In both cases, the action of the slave cylinder push rod would be to move the outside portion of the fork to the rear, forcing the inside portion of the fork to the front. I do not see how it would be possible to cause the clutch fork outer portion to move forwards, thus causing the inner section to move away from the pressure plate. Without the clutch fork and the push rod being assembled, there should be some fore-aft movement of the fork.

For the clutch fork to move in the "wrong direction", the slave cylinder would have to be retracting the push rod, rather than extending it, when you press on the clutch pedal.

If possible, a photo would be of great assistance in understanding what you are writing of.

Les
Les Bengtson

Hi Steve - are you sure you have pushed the push rod firmly back into the slave cylinder? In particular, if there is hydraulic fluid in the clutch system (master cylinder/pipe/slave cylinder), then you will have to push the rod back quite hard to get the eye to line up with the clutch fork. But it should not be difficult - I've just done it.

Paul
P W L STAIT

Steve,

After a second reading, I think Paul nailed the problem. It soundes like the clutch slave piston is fully extended to the end of the bore, and you just need to use the rod to shove the piston back to the other end of the bore.

In theory you could line it up by pushing the fork, but only if you are a bunch stronger than I.

Charley
C R Huff

All,

Thanks for the replies, I will try opening the cover to the clucth master cylinder in an attempt to relieve the pressure being built up as I push.

Les, all is well here in NH.
I sure hope I don't have to pull the engine again!

Regards,
Steve Brooks
Steve Brooks

All,

I removed the cap on the clutch master cylinder and was able to push the push rod to where it needed to be.
Clutch works fine !!!


Thanks everyone!
Steve Brooks

I doubt if removing the cover did anything, but glad to hear you're back in business.
Tom

If the breather hole in the cap was blocked enough pressure may have built up to prevent the slave piston being pushed all the way back, or at least pushed it back out again when released. The earlier caps may have had a through-hole, whereas I think more modern practice is to have a membrane which allows for 'normal' pressure changes without allowing moisture to come into contact with the fluid. If the cap has such a membrane it may have caused the problem even with a functioning cap as the volume of air being moved could well have been more than normal.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 25/05/2008 and 03/06/2008

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.