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MG MGB Technical - Not very technical questions
|#1. Fuses...Is there a replacement fuse available for the 17/35 amp fuse in my 71B? I know Moss & VB have them, but the parts shops locally don't know what to do.|
#2. Adhesive...the MG emblem on the grill is "wasted". Whatever adhesive the PO used melted the emblem. Suggestions before I ruin another?
|I don't know of any direct substitute at local auto parts places. Since they are 17 amp fuses you can try a 20 amp fuse until you get the correct fuses. There are some places on the net that offer the correct fuses as slow blow fuses. |
|I am wondering, would it wiser to use a 15 amp fuse instead of 20 amp? Would 15 amps blow on overload sooner than the 20 amp t.hus giving more protection? I am using 15 amp fuses now and wonder if I should switch to 20 amps a.fter reading this|
|The 17/35 amp fuse is available from any Jag dealer. FWIW.|
Dunno what to tell you about the emblem.
|John - The 17/35 amp "British" fuse is meant to hold at 17 amps indefinitely and blow immediately at 35 amps, with current levels between 17 and 35 amps causing the fuse to blow after a progressively shorter time delay. The closest American equivalent would be about a 12 amp slow blow fuse (is they are available in that size). A 15 amp standard fuse will work until such time as you can get the correct fuse replacement.|
To glue on a new grill badge, use silicone RTV. smear a good layer on the back of the badge, press it in place and use some masking tape to hold it there overnight. You will need a screwdriver to pry it off the next time you wnat ot change it. Good luck - Dave
|Lewis, If 15 amps works ok it's best to use it as Dave suggested. |
|Use the lowest rated fuse you can get away with at full load. If you are uncertain of the brand or rating try a few, starting low rating and increasing till it doesn't blow, and carry a few spares.|
In practice even a 17/35A will blow instantly if you get a short and I wouldn't agonise between 15 and 20A, it's the unfused circuits that give trouble such as OD and fuel pump, I put inline fuses in those.
A non-solvent adhesive like epoxy or body filler would be OK for the badge.
|John - go to Advance Auto Parts. I just bought fuses there last week and they carry "British" fuses. They are even labeled such. I'm sure if they aren't on the shelf, they can get them for you the next day.|
|For the embelem you can use something called Gorrila Glue. The glue is strong enough to hold on my grandfather's ladder on the back of his RV. Be carefull though. The glue when dry swells up around twice the size of the liquid that comes out. Just a little dab will do ya!!!|
|A glue called Goop will also work to attach trim and emblems. Just better not want to get it off easily the next time. David's silicone RTV is probably the best for future replacements. I use Goop anywhere that I want something to stay ~ forever.|
|I agree with Bob's Goop suggestion. Also found as Shoe Goo around here. I'm always finding a new use for it. I recently used Gorilla Glue, and it's hard as hell to get off your hands, so it must stick good. Uses moisture to cure, you brush water on the parts before sticking them together. And it does swell up, which was a good thing where I used it.|
|I once melted a badge using superglue. I found Silastic solved the problem. Barrie E|
|Tom, Where DID you put that Gorilla Glue?|
|David, the RTV worked great! Thanks, John|
This thread was discussed between 02/07/2005 and 17/07/2005
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