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MG MGB Technical - Oil Filter Hell

Hey everyone,

So yesterday I quite smoothly installed my new exhaust, fuel tank and fuel pump. Since I had the car jacked up I figured I would change the oil on my 79 B. Drailed the oil and then made my way to the spin on oil filter. The filter would not budge. I ended up poking a hole in the filter. Ive been to that point to where I ram a screw driver through the filter to get some leverage to get the oil filter off on a different car. I tried the same on the MGB. It wouldnt budge. I ended up tearing a nice big gash in the filter and was having more success at tearing the filter apart than gaining grip. So I am now left with the bottom of the filter still attached and nothing left to the top or sides of the oil filter. I have wacked the hell out of the thing with a hammer and screw driver to get it to start turning but no luck. Obviously this is very frustrating. Ive never had it get this bad. Has this happened to anyone? What was your solution? It would be greatly appreciated... As it stands I sprayed it down with wd40 and I am going to see if I can get to it after work today. Should I heat it up? There is some oil around and I am afraid that the oil will light up...

-James
James

James - WD 40 is a wonderful product to displace moisture on metal objects and protect them from corrosion, but contrary to the list of 1001 other uses of it, WD 40 is not very very good at any of them, especially a a penetrating fluid. obviously the gasket on the filter has welded itself to the sealing surface of the adapter. You could try some purpose mads penetrating fluids like PB Blaster or Kroil and see if that will loosen it, but the best approach i to unbolt the adapter from the block and get it into a vice where you can apply force in a more direct manner than you can with it in place on the engine. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Dave, how do you get at the retaining bolt without removing the filter first?
Art Pearse

Yes that is the problem I see as well Art. I also understand what your saying about WD40 David. What do you think about blasting it with some heat ?

-James
James

Hi Folks:

Had this issue on several non LBC's, the key is to get a screw driver blade between the oil filter seal and the mating surface to break the surface tension. Once the tension is relieved, then tap the remains of the filter off.

Good luck: Rich Boris 67 B roadster.
R. Boris

Do give the PB Blaster a try. It will soften and swell the seal, let is soak overnight. Possibly Big channel locks??
Mike
MK Mike

James Listen to R From Long Island I've taken many filters off this way and it has never failed. RIC
RIC LLOYD

James,

Please see the responses from the BBS members on my recent post "Oil Filter Designation" and particularly Rich Boris' comment: "Barney Gaylords MG Guru site regarding issues and tolerances associated with this installation".

It mostly pertains to aftermarket spin-on conversions for earlier Bs. Luckily, I didn't have this clearance issue on my '63 (resulting in a jammed oil filter), and hopefully you don't either, but if so, there's a lot of good info there.

Cheers,
Greg
Greg Van Hook

If all else fails, should be able to get the filter down to just the top plate. This is a little thicker than the sides, but should still be able to cut it.


One of the reasons for putting a light coating of oil on the gasket.
Bruce-C

It was down to the top plate. I have the car over my fathers house. He had a go at it last night and got it off. From what he told me, he did what I was doing. Chiseled a screw driver into the drain holes of the filter and it started turning. Im glad thats over with. I guess letting it sit over night worked. Not sure if the WD40 got into the seal but I did try and spray some on it. Either way Im relieved as I'm typing this with my bashed and cut up hands... Ill find out exactly what he did and post it.

-James

James

If all else fails, I would use a propane torch and melt the rubber oil filter seal. This should break the bond.
Frank Grimaldi

this has plagued me also. I now use one of the claw attachments thats made for the job, fits a 1/2inch drive, easy access from the top - harder you turn, tighter it grips, and unlike chains or screwdrivers doesnt seem to wreck the old filter. Alawys its the simple stuff that seems to put a fly in the ointment after a sucessful day doing some thing else with me, hence my aquisition of said claw tool.
mick

Agreed. I actually started with the claw tool. Im just glad its over with. Cant wait to start her up this weekend. Its been a while. Last time she was driven was a couple of years ago. I hope she still likes me. I have been driving a TR7 as well thats been getting a lot more attention... Yea I dont know why I would do that either but I do it. Since the last time I drover her, I put on SU's, said exhaust and fuel tank/pump, fuel lines, brand new alternator and a slew of others that I cannot think of. She was repainted when I was 17. Saved up $1500 back then. I am now 28. The paint orange peeled 6 months after I got the car back. Now Im getting her road worthy to take the trip down to my fathers friends body shop for some new rockers and to resolve some rust issues and some fresh paint. I am going to be doing most of the work myself with guidance and help from a friend or two. Anyone know a good deal for all the panels needed? Rocker, Castle rail etc ?
Jaes

Best deal for rocker kits that I've seen is BSCR.com. Part no.s 457-158 and 457-168. Moss is having a sale until 20 June and British Sports Car Restorations is beating their price with $253.75 per side.

Wayne
Wayne Pearson

Jaes,Give "The Roadster Factory" in Penn.a try.Good quality,and good prices,Rich O
rich osterhout

Thank you

-James
James

This thread was discussed between 11/05/2009 and 15/05/2009

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