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MG MGB Technical - pedals - aligning

Hi,

can anyone tell me how to align my pedals in 68 bgt so they are all the same height?

at present the accelerator is set a fair way lower than the brake and clutch pedals.

Also how on earth do you get screws out when the head is rounded. I want to get pedal box cover off but there is no thread left at all and can't grip the head with a stilson.

thanks
Mr Motor

I am not entirely sure you can (easily) adjust the pedals in the very early models, but iw ould be very interested if you could.

The only B's i have driven with "well set" pedals was the 1980 model with revised pedal box.

When i get to that part of my car, i may well try and bend the pedal legs slightly to my liking, if adjustment cannot be made.

WRT to the screws, you will need to drill out the body of the screws if the head is rounded most likely, however i have never had much luck with doing that.

If you have a dremel tool or similar, i have found cutting a slit in the knackered head often works as a flathead screwdriver can often get purchase here. Spray liberal coatings of penertrator and also invest in an impact head screwdriver - best thing since sliced bread!

~PHIL
Phil

Mr. Motor- I managed to get my rounded-off screws with Vicegrips. It wasn't easy and it took a long time because I could barely turn in such tight space but with the right size vicegrips angled straight down you can just grab the head and turn a very little bit at a time. Of course I used lots of nut-busting oil too.
Dana Wilson

They aren't supposed to be the same height and why would you want them to be? The clutch (and potentially the brake) have much more travel than the accelerator, and the latter should have a pedal stop mounted on the toe-board to prevent stretching its cable. You could simply bend the accelerator pedal up to match the others (lowering the others just isn't an option) but then you would have to raise the pedal stop as well.
Paul Hunt

On pedal box cover screws:

It's been posted that getting to them from under the dashboard is another avenue -- and/or through the rubber blanking on the firewall.

Another option is to just cut off the rounded head and rely on the other fastening bolts to hold the cover in place. I'm just using the front bolts and left the box/wing-(fender) bolts out.

I have found the six bolts holding the master cylinders sufficent. But then too, I have been called a heritic.
glg

Hi

Slightly of topic but having to do with the pedals.
I took the whole contraption of brake and clutch pedals out of the car and disassembled them. The holes at the top of the pedals where the clevis pins go through were oblong,not round. So I took them to a machine shop and had all of the holes bored out to make them round again and then had them bushed to the correct inside diameter.New clevis pins and pushrods for the brake and clutch. New return springs.Pedals sure feel good now . Very precise. Great for shifting gears and no slop any more. I had never realized how much driving enjoyment is lost due to sloppy pedal controls. FWIW ALan
Alan

Ovalled pedals - I had similar but MIG-welded the worn side up and filed it back out bit by bit so as to keep the same centres. Also changed the MC pushrod which was also ovalled, and replaced the clevis pins which were grooved. I reckoned I was losing about 1/2" of travel at the pedal with the combined wear.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 20/10/2003 and 22/10/2003

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.