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MG MGB Technical - Polished Winshield Frame

I am starting a long restoration project on my 67 (really a 66) and since I'm outta work I have time on my hands to do stupid stuff like polishing out a w/s frame rather than keep it that dull anodized aluminum color. I was debating whether or not to have the frame shot in clear 2 pak or have it powder-coated. Anyone do this and how well did it hold up?

BTW, I couldn't believe how hard it was to disassemble the w/s frame as the screws 'melded' with the aluminum probably due to salt from the roads and electrolytic reaction from the 2 metals. I used a lot of heat and all the screws came out except for one which I drilled and used an 'easyout' on. Of course the easyout broke and I can't drill it out. Those rivets were also a PITA to remove as they are steel in aluminum. I'm tapping all the rivet holes and intend to use stainless screws instead with antiseize applied and where necessary helicoils.

I'm using a 6" 3M fine scotchbrite wheel on my grinder and then a Craftsman 3D sander using progressivly finer sandpaper up to 1000 grit and then using a yellow spiral buff pad with stainless grease and then rouge on a loose buff. I did one post and the bottom and it turned out sweet.

Thanks for your help.
Mike MaGee

Mike,

I think you're right on track with the scotchbrite to rouge treatment. I used up to 1500 wet/dry then Mothers aluminum mag polish to complete. Mirror finish. I've heard of others taking it this far and then to clear coat only to have the clear chip/peal/yellow. Then you're stuck. I just go with routine maintenance with Mothers. BTW early cars had the polished aluminum frame from the factory. The "anodize" you perceive is just 37 years of tarnish.

Paul
Paul Hanley

You should check the archives on this subject. I have seen several threads about this topic. The main thing that comes to mind is that you have to use the right type of clear coat, or as Paul said, it will peal and turn yellow and go back dull.
Robert Browning

I left mine raw after polishing. I couldn't stand to dull such a beautiful finish. It's a daily driver and I don't clean it as often as I should but it stays pretty. A good rubdown with Mothers or Blue Magic once or twice a year keeps it shining like chrome.
Steve Simmons

Once polished, a good coat of wax will protect the film from the elements. Back in the early seventies, we flew aircraft with polished leading edges. Flew into an area known for heavy smog and left them on the ramp overnight. The next morning all our bare aluminum had aquired a dull yellowish cast that took the better part of the day to polish out. A heavy coating of paste wax protected them the next night. Of course, back then the smog was a really vicious chemical stew. Emission controls and environmental regs on industry have gone a long wasy in reducing it. We used to be able to spot major urban areas over the horizon from the air when out over the ocean by the "brown bubble" that formed over them.
R. L Carleen

When people complain about emissions equipment and converters I laugh as I remember, as well as most of you, the terrible polluted days in the 60s and especially the 70s. I moved to LA in 75 and had to leave because I constantly got sick from all the pollution - and that's saying something as I come from NYC. After spending a day with lots of old cars I appreciate all the pollution equipment on the new ones.
Mike MaGee

I will add one more vote for leaving the finish bare. If you clear coat you will have the inevitable problem of some kind of break in the layer and then you have an uneven finish again like you are working so hard to remove now. I went eh same route you did and a little polish every now and then is MUCH easier than all I did to reomve the anodizing on my 67 (and yes, on the 67's it was anodizing, not oxidation. The chrome was in the Very Early B's)
Carl W French

I haven't used Mothers or Blue Magic, but have always had excellent results from SimiChrome followed by a good carnauba wax on polished aluminum. You can also use the SimiChrome on a cotton buffing wheel.

Good Luck,
Edd Weninger

Semichrome is an abrasive polish suitable for metals with pitting or other unsightly blemishes. It works very well. However there is no need for it on a surface in good condition and may leave light scratches on highly polished aluminum.
Steve Simmons

Can this be done with the windshield in place and if so to Paul, did you use the 1500 wet/dry by hand?
Steve
Steve C.

Much easier to use ez-off oven cleaner to
remove the plsticote then just buff.

No need for all the abrasives
HowY

I always wondered why Easy-off wasn't supposed to be used on aluminum. It does wonders at removing anodizing, and it brightens old unsealed aluminum very well.
Jeff Schlemmer

Steve C.,

I had the frame apart and did each piece by hand starting with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500 grit progression; then Mothers. If done on the car it would seem that it would be hard to clean/polish corners, joints and other nooks and cranies. I always sanded wet, by hand and in one direction. If on the car, I don't think you'll get as near a job as you will be forced to cross sand at the joints, leaving sanding scars.

Carl,

you may be right on the early cars only having polished frames. Clausagers makes an issue of it on pg 24 but doesn't give the changeover date in the production changes. In either case, it was polished aluminium not chromed. They do look great polished, don't they?

Paul
Paul Hanley

The best Clear coat I know for polished parts is made by PPG. They have a few coats made just for bare metal parts, like stainless or aluminum its expensive, but it won't dull or yellow with age.
CJD Dark

Although it can be done exclusively by hand I like to use power equipment to save my hands and especially wrists as I have carpel tunnel syndrome. Using a grinder with scotchbrite wheels makes quick removal of the anodizing and major scratches. Like I said above the 3D Craftsmen sander using only 1 disk can be used to smooth and sand away the numerous casting lines and starting at 280 grit and going up to 1000 makes for a very smooth surface requiring little polishing with the buffing wheels. There will need to be some hand sanding in the corners where its hard to sand and polish by machine. I use the paper wet to provide for some lubrication and to keep the sandpaper pores open and not clogged with aluminum as does happen. On really nasty scratches like where the top clamps go I use a rubber expandible wheel with 400 grit sandpaper on my variable speed grinder. A yellow treated muslim buff w/stainless grease makes quick work of getting a very shiny finish. Yes I have lots of tools and machines and have been restoring cars for more than 20+ years and I have polished a lot of aluminum during that time.
Mike MaGee

Guys- Hows about a baked on clear coat powder after final polish, since you have the frame pieced out? As I start a restore of a 1979 LE Roadster, I intend to black chrome powder coat ALL the exterior trim including wind frame, door handles, factory lug-rack, heater vent, windshield wipers, etc. I think the windshield frame will be a real fashion statement in gleeming black
vem myers

Vem, MG did that with midget windshield frames for part of the '70 model year. There are a couple of pix in the Wood and Burrell 'MGB the Illustrated History.' I think it looked alright, though I prefer the anodized AL, and would look better on a rubber bumper car. Nice to hear about your front susp., too.
Safety Fast, Wade
Wade Keene

About 13 years ago I removed the anodizing from my windshield frame with a die grinder and a small wire brush. The job was done with the windshied in situ and came out great. To keep it shiney (as coating with clear coat was NOT recommended)I used Flitz polish with much success.
Now about 7 years ago the windshield was hit by a stone from a gravel truck and destroyed.So during the glass replacement I bit the bullet and had the windshield frame chrome plated. If you can afford it, that is the way to go.
Jon Rosenthall

Jon- That's an amazing idea! How did it go? Obviously you parted the unit and delivered to shop. About how much if you don't mind the question? Any chance of a picture?
Wade- I'm so pleased with the front end work I could wet myself. Never before in all my wrenching years have I achieved such a result for that amount of invested time/money. I've actually found myself, crawling under the rig, belly up, to admire the in place splendor( and its snowing here!) Next to the cross flow, and a Burgess grind, definitely the best do I've done
vem myers

I am thinking of the chrome plate option also as chrome is hard and not susceptable to the easy scratching like polished aluminum although the underlying metal is still soft. I'll have to get some quotes for the price as chroming is $$$$.
Mike MaGee

Vem,yes,the windshield frame must be totally disassembled and all attachments(sun visor clips,convertable top anchors,and any tonneau snaps)removed. The plating of the 4 pieces I think ran about $250.00. And yes Mike, the chrome finish is extremly scratch resistant especially if you keep it polished with a very high silicone content wax.
Jon Rosenthall

This thread was discussed between 26/11/2003 and 06/12/2003

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