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MG MGB Technical - Praise the Lord - she runs

Since I bought the '79 roadster I've: repleaced the oil pump and lower bearings, added the weber set-up, replaced the exhaust with a large bore SS unit, replaced the exhaust manifold, all the hoses, belts, plugs, rotor, cap plug wires, de-smogged it and redid the interior.

It finally runs great - can't wait for warmer weather!

Next question:

Need to replace the gas tank sending unit - any hints< and do I need to calibrate the guage?

I also need to replace the directional/high beams/horn unit - does that require removing the steering wheel?

Many thanks to all who have provided advice over the last few months!

Ed
Ed

Ed,

Congrats. Lot's of information in the archives for the fuel sending unit. There are also some regarding fuel gauge calibration (which probably won't be necessary). On the '79 ('77 and later) they used different gauges, so I don't know if the procedure is similar or not, but on my '76, fuel gauge calibration was accomplished by simply removing a couple of cork plugs (with the gauge out) and turning the slots to adjust the empty and full indications, accordingly. It actually worked out pretty well. I think you can test your fuel gauge by simply grounding the fuel sending unit connection (with the ignition on, of course) and determining if the guage goes all the way to "F". It should then return to "E" when not grounded (someone will correct me if I'm wrong here, but I belive this is correct). My fuel gauge did not originally go all the way to F, which is how I knew it needed to be adjusted.

Why are you changing the sending unit? What are your indications? I was able to get at my turn signal switch without removing the steering wheel (I did have to remove the cowl at its base, which someone had previously removed and omitted a screw that allowed easier access the second [or third...] time around). I don't remember it being all that difficult, however, it was admittedly some time ago when I performed this procedure. On the other hand, my steering wheel wasn't really that difficult to remove, when I changed it out, anyway. However, others have nightmare stories, so it's probably best to work around it.

Have fun,

Barry
Barry Kindig

Barry - replacing the sending unit because the guage doesn't work - i've checked the wiring out and its fine - so it must be the unit.

The directional stalk is broken - hopefully the swap will be as easy as yours was.

Ed
Ed

Test the new one before you start. Get a new rubber sealing ring, and if the locking ring looks badly corroded (more than just surface rust) get a new one of those too. If you raise that corner to a reasonable working height you should be able to get away with at least 1/4 tank when removing the sender. Yours possibly has the fuel outlet as part of the sender, I have no experience of what extra work is required on those. Work round the locking ring tapping the flanges on it (*not* the part of the tank the ring goes under) bit by bit to unscrew it. When reinstalling make sure the sealing ring goes between the tank and the sender, you may need to use a sealant with your agressive fuels, we don't have to in the UK. You may well need to recalibrate the gauge, I did when changing what could have been originals, but subsequent replacements were OK. Full instructions on the web site immediately above or below this posting, click on 'Spanners', 'Electrics' and 'Gauges' and scroll to the bottom.
Paul Hunt

Sirs;
On the 77 on Bs in the US it is necesary to remove the steering wheel to replace the t/s and or wiper switch. Bob T
Bob Thompson

This thread was discussed between 04/03/2002 and 08/03/2002

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