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MG MGB Technical - Rear Axle - Diff.pin jammed

Oh Calamity! 73 mgb roadster
Having all but successfully changed the shims in the diff.( The Clunk problem) the final shim snagged and distorted whilst the pin was being tapped home. Tapping the pin out again the it moved out too far and now fouls the casing.

Seems that I can't take the diff. assembly out insitu simply by removing the bearing caps due to a preload.

Has anyone else solved the problem of pushing the pin back again from the back ( G Clamp idea?) or can the pin be fully driven towards the back to drop out and be retrieved once the planet gears are removed?

Is there any alternative to removing the axle and taking to the specialist ??

Mike Hilton

The pin can't be driven all the way to the front.

Not heard of the G-clamp method, suppose it depends if you have enough room to get one in.

Have you tried taking the bearing caps off and pulling the whole diff out? Despite what the book says mine (old axle) came out easily, and others have said the stretcher may only be needed when building up an axle from new parts including the case.

If not I'd investigate hardware from B&Q i.e. threaded rod etc. to see if I could make a stretcher.
paulh4

It'll come out without a stretcher
Take the caps off and get a big screwdriver or a tyre lever or similar and lever it out
Just make sure as it comes out that that you keep everything, cap, bearing etc on the side it comes out so it all goes back as is
And when going back in make sure you get it in mesh and not on top of a tooth and damage a tooth, then take it in turns side at a time tap it back in with a soft faced hammer if needed--usually you can get it started then sit on the floor with a foot on each side and just push it in---make sure your car is supported well though if you're going to go pushing on it
Safety first
William Revit

Yes, vital to keep everything orientated as it the same when it goes back in

Incidentally, it was after having trying the clonk cure on a spare axle I decided not to bother on the one in the car!
paulh4

Thanks for all encouragement.

I managed to pull it back with an F clamp from "Wickes" in the end.
See picture for the principle.

Wasn't looking forward to freeing the axle nut again, had to cut off the last one.

The pin went maybe 1/4 to 3/8 too far, any more and you run out of room to get the clamp on the pin. Even then I could only catch an edge after a lot of trying.


Drawing the pin first time round wasn't easy either. Really tight fit. My tool to pull it was an alan key through the hole and a ring spanner with stack of washers behind to act as a lever.
Don't see how to attach a second picture to show it but I hope the comment helps others.


Thanks again for the confidence booster. Will be back on the road before you know it.



Mike Hilton

Only one picture per post here, so if you need to attach more than one make a second post etc.

Exactly the problem I had, pin withdrew so far then wouldn't come out any more. That's when I took the diff out just to see if it could be done having read comments about stretchers. And even though it did decided to leave the one on the car clonking!
paulh4

Well done Mike--
Just for future ref.
Next time-if
When you jack the car up it's better with the jack stands under the body up near the front of the spring---instead of under the axle housing
With them under the body the axle,diff or whatever you call them over there can be lowered down a bit to the limit of the checkstraps giving you a fair bit easier access to the insides there
The jack can be left under the housing as well for extra support
willy
William Revit

"The jack can be left under the housing as well for extra support"

Advisable, given the quality of rubber straps today. They now have 'reinforcing' of a kind, but still break the first time they are asked to carry the weight of the axle Moss Europe now carry webbing-style.
paulh4

This thread was discussed between 18/08/2018 and 20/08/2018

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