MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - rear spring removal - Ideas ?

Hi everyone
Can anyone advise on the best way to remove the rear spring "front" bolt. I've tried hammering it to death but it still refuses to budge. It turns OK in its bush, has been liberally doused in WD40 but wants to come out NOT ?
Will I have the same problem when fitting a new bush & bolt ? The rear "back" bolts were fine.


MGB GT - 1977. rubber to chrome conversion.



P Liles

If it turns then it cannot be seized.... maybe you've hammered a mushroom onto it which will not go through the hole?
N
Neil22

I'm pretty sure there's a metal spacer tube inside the rubber bushings, and the bolt is inside that. The spacer tube turns inside of the bushing, but the bolt and the tube are 'as one'.

It's been quite a while since I had to deal with a really troublesome one of these, but I've got a feeling yours is right up there with the worst. The best penetrant/lubricant was recently shown to be a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and xylene (I've got no idea what y'all call those things where you are). However, I've got a feeling that even soaking the area in question in this stuff isn't going to help. You'll probably need to cut off the head and tail of the bolt, but I'd imagine it will be difficult not to cut into the hanger flanges.

I don't recall how forgiving the hanger flanges are. You might get away with cutting off the bolt head and then bending the other flange away.

Use these suggestions if you have to, but surely someone else with more recent experience will respond.

I will strongly suggest that you liberally apply anti-seize to the inside surface of the new spacer tube, to prevent this from happening the next time you need to remove the springs.

Do you have new springs, or are you just replacing the bushings? Last I heard the spring material still sucked. Probably better to take the existing springs to a spring shop to get them re-bent. Maybe even have them add a leaf (although over here the spring shops don't have the right size leafs to add, so you need to take a leaf from other MGB springs).
Dave McCann

Angle grinder - cut both ends off and drill out to release spring.
Chris at Octarine Services

This is a common problem with off road vehicles. You'll need access to a Sawzall to cut the bolt off, on either side of the spring. This will make the job an easy and quick one. RAY
rjm RAY

Hi Paul
Its a real pain in the neck when this happens. IMHO i would cut of both ends with an hacksaw ( if you are tempted to use a angle grinder be VERY carefull of sparks on the fuel tank). Then I would force up one side of the shackle bracket holding it on and it should then slip out with some effort. Afterwards just tap it back into place, you should get enough clearance to do it this way, it will be a lot eaisier than drilling the bolt out. As it has already been suggested this will almost certainly be rusted to the steel incert and both will turn when you try to drill it. Hope this helps.
Regards Neil.
Neil V J Reeves

Tried method was to cut and remove the rubber bush between the spring and hanger on both sides. Using a heat gun, heat the rubber and push the spring against the outboard hanger. The gap then allowed the sleeve and bolt to be cut with an angle grinder. With the spring against the inner hanger, again cut the sleeve and bolt. Pick up the pieces.
If you do not like the angle grinder, then you may find an electric recipricating saw in B&Q.
Geoff F.
Geoff Farthing

Over here we would first douse the thing with PB Blaster which is a superb penetrating fluid. Applying multiple coats over several days "might" loosen it up.

Having done that I would try to get a clamp on it with an oversize socket covering the head of the bold, and the clamp end pushing on the threaded end. The oversize socket will allow the head to push out into the socket if you get any movement.

I say "if" because even with all this I still had to cut mine with a sawzall to get them out. The bolts and metal sleeves had indeed melded into one unit.

BH
BH Davis

Thanks Guys for all the comments.
The petrol tank is out so I may attack it with the angle grinder. I think chopping off the threaded end first then drilling through will be best, as bolt head can be locked to prevent turning whilst drilling.
I am aiming to re-use the springs since I can't afford the parobolic/spax mod. I can just afford a new set of bushes since the fuel pump now needs replacing.........the Joys of MG's !!!!!
P Liles

I wouldn't bother with the Parabolics (or Diabolics as they should be called as the quality on offer is c**p) you can get good quality leaf springs from a few places that dont source them from the far east.
K Harris

Sawzall = reciprocating saw. They are much easier to use in this situation than an angle grinder and won't chew up the spring mounting points. I've done quite a few of these and it's an invaluable tool. RAY
rjm RAY

From my reminds, the front rear spring anchorage bolt size onto the bottom turret flanges and it's almost impossible to take it off without cutting both ends
Guy RENOU

My method was similar to Chris's suggestion of the use of an angle grinder, but the thin cutoff wheel allows the bolt to be cut off between each side of the spring and mounting.
The remains of the bolt and bush can then be removed from the spring on the bench.

(Took no more than 10 minutes.)

Regards,
David
David Overington

rjm RAY has the best solution.
SAWZALL and cut the bolt head off.

Have the aft end of the spring removed from the shackle. With floor jack suspended under the diff. unit and a bottle jack under the spring / axle, then cut out the bolt head. Use a drift punch and hammer the bolt shaft with nut clean out of the spring eyelet. Lube the new bolt and bushing very well during re-assembly to keep moisture out.

This is an area to use extra caution so take your time. You want to take the tension off the spring during this procedure.

Safety Fast.
R Murray

Hi Folks:

When I have had this issue, I used a Sawzall to release the front spring. I them added a new spring insert and used a "stainless" replacement bolt. I can simply remove the bolt anytime I need to!


Thanks: Rich Boris 67 B
Rich Boris

I must be dead lucky, replaced springs on both my cars, the V8 in particular which had been a daily driver in all weathers and salt for a number of years and the springs were very rusty. I was dreading it when one broke, but both bolts came right out. Use Waxoyl to coat the bolts and sleeves on reasembly!
Paul Hunt 2010

> used a "stainless" replacement bolt.

Check the grade on the bolt. Many stainless fasteners are about the equivalent of Gr. 2. You probably want something stronger than that holding the spring on!
Rob Edwards

Mr Liles,

When I did this I used a junior hacksaw and it was done in about 30 minutes. The key is to cut between the mount and the spring, and that gap is simply too narrow for an angle grinder. I dare say a fine recipricol saw would have been faster. I cut the end 'outside' of the mount first, but it doesn't actually help! You can't prise the mounting open enough, so there is no point. Once cut on both sides then a bit of twisting and tugging and the spring should come free. Obviously you should first remove all other connections so the spring is not under tension.

That is the easy part. The tricky part is removing the old bush to rebush! The ones I had the rubber came out, but it left an outer metal sleeve in place. I didn't realise that this was a part of the old bush and recked a polybush trying to squeeze it in. Once I had established that this needed to be removed it got easier as I was able to cut the sleeve and pry it out. Removing the old bush took me far longer than getting the springs off though!

When rebushing and reassembling consider that you will quite possibly be the next person to take the spring off! Use appropriate lubricants/grease in decent amounts!

Have fun
Iain
67 BGT
I D Cameron

Hmm, just rechecked my notes and I did use an angle grinder as well, after prising the mount open a fraction. Take care not to cut the mount though!

For rebushing you will need a vice or press. I used a large washer (from front suspension IIRC) to support the bush as it was pressed in.
I D Cameron

K Harris......What rear springs(companies) are you speaking about?Not being made in china/Near East.Rich O
rich osterhout

Iain, I'm surprised by your comment about using a saw as the gap is too narrow for an angle grinder.
The thin cutoff wheels now available are about the same thickness as a hacksaw blade.

They wear down quickly but save an enormous amount of work!

Regards,
David
David Overington

K Harris-
You said "you can get good quality leaf springs from a few places that dont source them from the far east." Would you please identify these sources of quality leaf springs for us? Considering the awful quality of what's out there on the market, it would be greatly appreciated.
Stephen Strange

I once had some coil springs made for my race car by GME springs in Coventry. They also manufacture leaf springs...

http://www.gmesprings.co.uk/start.htm
Dave O'Neill 2

I note they "stock springs for most makes of vehicles" but I suspect that is current (and recent) commercial vehicles, others like for an MGB would probably be produced to your spec and drawings. We have quite a lot of spec info, but it would still be a bit of a punt.
Paul Hunt 2010

Well its done guys.
In the end it was really simple.
I used a 1mm wide cutting disc in the angle grinder. There's loads of room between the hanger mounts and spring eye. The rubber dust is "orrible" though.
Getting the bush out of the spring was brutal. I have no garage,vice or many tools. I used a 1/2" chisel to remove the bush after first drilling through the rubber several times all the way round.
The replacement bush went in a treat. Firstly I tried the trusty workmate, but then moved on to tapping it firmly via oversized socket and lump hammer.

Anyone any idea how to undo the propshaft/Diff nuts ?. I've given them a good soak in Penetrating fluid. The bolt head is very shallow and its impossible to get a socket on the other end.
P Liles

This thread was discussed between 11/04/2010 and 28/04/2010

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.