MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Removing a leaf from the rear spings

Would someone please help me out?
I'm looking for the tech information as to removing a leaf from the rear springs. supposedly, it not only softens the ride, but improves handling?
Which leaf?
Truth?
Controversy?
Safety Fast
Dwight
Dwight McCullough

Dwight. Interesting question and one that I am not competent to answer. Removing a spring would lower the "rate" of the spring set. Exactly the same as using a lighter weight of springs. The long leaf, the one with the ends curled to accept the bushings, must stay in place. Any of the others might be removed with varying degrees of effectiveness. I would suspect, but do not know for certain, that the smaller springs would have less impact on how the spring set worked than the larger springs. If I had access to an auto-cross set up and could conduct some tests, this would be an interesting test to conduct. As I remember it, one of the "secrets" of the Lotus cars was softer springs and harder dampeners (shocks). Thus, to make an adequate test, I would suspect that some form of course with hard right and left hand turns and some esses involved would be worthwhile. You would also want to have some heavier (uprated) rear shocks to put on with each test series. Sounds like a great experiment for someone with access to a large parking lot (empty) and some traffic cones. I remember reading a test where someone took a 75B and a later model B (with the rear anti-sway bar) around such a circuit. Their impression was that the 75B had much more body roll than the later model. Their times showed the 75 as being faster in spite of the body roll. Like you, I would be interested in hearing from someone who has actual data. Les
Les Bengtson

Dwight, Interesting consideration. How about cold cutting 2 inches off each end off each spring since you have the the leaf(s) separated, thus maintaining orig thickness?. You could remove the second leaf on the rear drivers side then for comparison, cut back the leaf on the rear passenger's side. Take her out on a hill climb and see which you like. If you survive, please post results here ASAP, as I'd like a good lead backed by seat of pants. Since I'm having to disassemble the LE springs cause I have lodged sand from blasting, I'm considering the cutback approach or the one-leaf removal too. Be nice to hear from dem dat knows on this one. Vic
vem myers

Dwight

I posted an enquiry about this very subject not more than 3 months ago, probably only 2 months ago actually.

Look in the very recent B technical page archives.

It seems more common your side of the pond than ours.

For me, the purpose was to lower the car slightly without using blocks (my thread might have been called "lowering the rear end," come to think of it) but i haven't got much further with it to be honest, i have had other things move up the list since then....

There were some good answers on my thread although it was concerned more with turning a spring leaf over to lower the car, however turning different leaves of the spring would have a differing effect on the spring rate. I to would appear that one had to be careful which leaf was turned, so as not to produce an overly soft or hard ride - both of which would affect the handling.

Removing a spring leaf would soften the ride, but also make it more bouncy and therefore IMO turning a leaf would be preferential.

~PHIL



Phil

Seems a lighter spring combined with a harder shock would only be useful on smooth surfaces. In real world driving, the suspension may not be able to return the wheels to the ground before the next bump. A succession of bumps in the road may lead to bottomng out.
Steve Simmons

I removed the second leaf and shortened the others.

The rational was twofold- first, this is a race car and I wanted to soften the rear suspension, as it only carries a cell and eight gallons of fuel, and I wanted some adjustability in rear roll stiffness, so I added a rear bar.

The rear bar proved too stiff, so I had another made, with longer pivot arms.

It's still in development, so i can't comment fully on the setup.

If you are looking to lower only, and are happy with the spring rate, you might want to look at reversing the spring eye. Yields about a 2" drop w/ no change in spring rate.
Greg Fast

How are the leaves numbered? Is the longest leaf (with the spring eyes) considered to be #1, or is it the shortest one?

~Jerry
Jerry Causey

I don't know that there is a formal numbering protocol. For Me the main leaf is #1, the second leafi is #2.

Actauly, I mois-spoke- i removed the 5th leaf and shortened the 2nd-4th leave incrementally
Greg Fast

Phil- So you are thinking turn over, what, #5 ( using Greg Fast's ref above)? Does anyone have some hands on seat of pants ( interesting image there) on this leaf flop or removal. Seems like ofting #2 would really sag the rear. From what I see on this spring rebuild, # 4 or 5 look like the better candidates
vem myers

OK- I'm flipping 5. I'll letchall know how it feels later. Vic
vem myers

This thread has got me thinking, I used the moss lowered spring and their lowering block. Replaced the rear shock with stiffer ones that apple hydraulics offered.I used the CB link and rebound strap. If the road is smooth, its great, but any rough bumps and it feels rough! I even get a weird scrunchy sound if I hit something really rough. The car by the way, is a 76, V6 converted to chrome. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Bryan Heidtman

When changing things at the rear you must make sure it is the bump-rubbers and rebound straps that are taking the shock of maximum excursions of the axle and not the damper. If you used a lowering block as well as lowered springs maybe you have exceeded even what the CB links and straps will cope with.

NB. Springs and dampers aren't required on smooth roads.
Paul Hunt

Paul

Springs and dampers aren't required on smooth - STRAIGHT - roads.

Neil
Neil Lock

Dwight-Progress on your plight? Truth or consequences, fact or fiction?
vem myers

This thread was discussed between 10/12/2003 and 15/12/2003

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.