MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Removing Fulcrum Pin

I am in the process of removing my front suspension. I am having real problem getting the outer fulcrum bolt out. The stub axel is still on the car as I can't seem to remove the upper shock link either.The bolt spins freely but I guess its seized to the distance Piece?? My question is can I use heat on this? and if so where should I apply it, to the link or the bolt? Any other suggestions are welcome. And I thought the bolt on the midgets was tough!!
Mike
Mike

Ever so often I get a really tough rusted bolt in the tube that it passes thru. I have found that I need to get it off of the car first. Disconnecting at the top which you have probably done, removing spring and disconnect everything running to it, disconnect it from the spring pan and inner fulcrum arm, and take to a bench vise. Usually the steel sleeve will come out of the bronze sleeve at the bottom of the kinpin assembly. Then you have the lower A arm pinched between the bolt head and the steel sleeve. Superheating to cherry red the sleeve and being careful not to mushroom the end of the bolt that is threaded (use a brass hammer if you have it) hammer the bolt back thru until flush with sleeve and then use a suitable sized drift to finish it the rest of the way out. Once it starts moving you can get it out.
Mwhitt

My preference is to use a good hacksaw on the bottom bolt. Even better is an angle grinder if you can make room. The distance tubes have always been rusted solid on the ones I've done, and heat hasn't been any help.
Steve Postins

I agree with Steve, saw the ends off between the fulcrum and the arms and then drive the remains out on the bench.
Bill Young

Rember to use antisieze on the bolt when reinstalling. After ten years mine came right out with know problems.
John H

Guys, Thanks for the help. I ended up dropping the entire unit as suggested. I was able to get a bit more leverage on the parts. Was putting too much stress on the outer a arms trying to knock the fulcrum thru while on the car. I got the arms off then had a mighty struggle with the upper shock link but finally got it free. After a few futile tries at knocking the pin out I cut it, no big deal since I will be ordering a new lower fulcrum kit anyhow. This suspension looked pretty clean, I was surprised that just about every bolt/nut gave me alot of trouble. Funny how they put cotter pins in the ends of the bolts, these things would'nt come loose in a million years! Oh great suggestion on the anti-seize on reassembly, will definatly do that. Thanks again but I'm sure this won't be the end of it.
Mike
Mike

I've always had to hacksaw through both ends of the top bolt on mine the first time, although the bottoms have always come out. As said liberally grease the bottom bolt where it goes inside the distance tube, it is the *outside* of the distance tube that is lubricated from the greasing points, not the inside. Despite the comment about the bolts not needing split pins I have been very concerned about receiving Nyloc bolts with the upper bolt kits, even though the bolt is the proper one with split-pin holes. These Nyloc nuts are much taller than castelated nuts, and the nut for this bolt is even lower profile than normal. With the supplied Nyloc nut the threads were barely enagaged with the nylon, there should be at least three threads clear, making their use even more suspect. Fortunately I have always managed to locate a suitable castelated nut and use a split-pin.
Paul Hunt 2

I would 100% endorse what Paul says about split pinning the top bolt on the king pin. My car developed a steering wheel oscillation that refused to balance out. When I re-tightened the nyloc nut it cured it. After this scare I always use a castellated nut with a split pin, call it a cotter pin if you like just make sure it stays on the king pin.
Stan Best

I was just sorta kidding about the split pins.Everythinbg was just so tight. I like to do everything as original. I noticed the last suspension job I did on my Midget the kit contained those nyloc nuts. Are new Castellated nuts available anywhere?
Mike
Mike

After getting two or three kits from various places with the Nyloc nuts I queried it with the MGOC who said they (at least) now supply the correct castelated nuts, although I can't recall if this was as part of the kit or as an extra (the former, I hope).
Paul Hunt 2

My MGOC roller top bearing exchange stub axles came with Nylocs with about 1 thread poking out of the top. They are in a bin somewhere in the garage and I re-used some old castellated nuts. That was about 2 years ago. I was also resoundinly unimpressed with having to buy a tap to clear the rust out of the 4 holes that the disc shield bolts to before the bolts would enter.
Stan Best

Most hardware stores stock castellated nuts, also known as castle nuts and slotted nuts. If you live in the boonies, you can order them from McMaster-Carr at http://www.mcmaster.com. Search their online catalog for slotted nuts, which look more like the ones found in MG suspensions. -G.
Glenn G

This thread was discussed between 10/01/2006 and 14/01/2006

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.