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MG MGB Technical - Removing steering wheel
I've scrapped a rubber bumper MGB recently and cann't remove the steering wheel from the column. The nut is undone and it wouldn't come off when still attached to the car by either thumping the underside with my hands nor by pulling and rocking at the same time (all with the nut still attached but loose to that it doesn't hit me in the face !) Off the car, again with the nut loose, I've supended the whole set up on beams under the wheel boss and hit the centre of the colum with a large centre punch - still no joy. Anyone any ideas as I've never had this much trouble before. |
Paul Humphries |
The method I was shown involves loosening the nut until it is flush with the end of the threaded part of the column. One person tries to pull the steering wheel off while another taps the nut with a 10lb sledge. |
william fox |
Paul, Some folks who've had trouble say that tightening the nut first, before running it out to the end and trying to remove the wheel, will work. Breaks the corrosion. If not, try playing the tip of the flame of a propane torch on the end of the shaft till it heats up, then soak well, overnight, with pentrating oil, then try again. A puller might work. Best, Joe |
Joe Ullman |
There is a tool for removing the crank pully from engines that works remarkably well in this situaion. Alan. |
Alan Raddatz |
Never failed me. Sit in seat with knees pulling against wheel. Have nut level with end of shaft. Lay lead hammer on shaft and hit with Big hammer. Usualy two or three good wapps. It's loose Bob |
Bob Thompson |
Most who've had success removing a stuck wheel agree with Bob T. Though many use two people. One to hold tension on the wheel, while the other uses one hand on the lead hammer, one hand on the whapping hammer. I've never had to deal with it, but wonder if you could dribble some penetrating oil onto the shaft so it works its way into the splines? |
Matt Kulka |
Paul, I had a similar problem and resorted to removing the whole steering column, placing it in a vice (or something similar) so that the steering wheel was on the vice and the rest of the column hanging down. With the nut unwound to the top of the thread to stop the thread being damaged so that you can gently tap the column out with all your might and preferably a 10lb sledge hammer. Garreth |
Garreth |
Same as Bob. You need the diameter of a hammer on the shaft to get the shock into it, a centre-punch won't do it. |
Paul Hunt |
Paul I used a gear puller to pull my steering wheel. I undid the nut to the end of the thread then assembled the puller to apply pressure behind the boss, using some cardboard to prevent damage to the boss. I tightened the puller then applied the big hammer, retightened and applied the hammer two more times and off it came. To me this seems to be a much more reliable method than some others. Peter |
Peter Scott |
Made a puller in about 45 minutes and used twice with good results. If anyone needs drawing email me. |
jim mindy |
Pulling on the wheel & whacking the shaft works, be very careful & don't knock any of your teeth :( |
Dauntless |
Wacking the shaft as has been suggested is a good way of sheering the nylon studs which link the inner and outer telescope tubes which are part of the collapsible steering wheel system. Once this happens it is time to buy a new steering column. A puller is a cheaper item to buy and it is re-usable. |
Marc |
I just whacked my shaft and it was great. Now I'm going to have a smoke... |
Harry Palms |
Pressing on the back of the wheel rim with the knees whilst striking the shaft shouldn't cause damage to a collapsible column. |
Paul Hunt |
This thread was discussed between 05/12/2002 and 12/12/2002
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