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MG MGB Technical - Removing the Clutch Flex Hose

Hey Everyone,
I've returned from a month abroad in Israel (where I can report I saw one MG). I'm now back attending to my replacement of clutch hydraulics. With the help of a good friend, we finally removed the clutch slave cylinder bolts. But a new problem has arisen. We can't remove the flex hose from the solid hose.

The problem seems to be one of access. We can get a wrench on the flex hose end, but we can't seem to find anything to fit around the nut on the top ot the bracket that will fit in that space. Does anyone know what size that nut is? Any suggestions are welcome.

Jeremy
1974.5 MGB
J. Palgon

Jeremy,

You need to release the pipe nut first and then you can drop a socket over the large nut - off hand I think it is 3/4 AF.
Chris at Octarine Services

Chris,
Thanks for your advice. I definitely understand the situation now. Unfortunately, I'm still having all sorts of trouble getting a wrench in there to release the pipe nut.

Though I really want to change out the flex hose along with the master and slave cylinder, after a couple of (unsucessful) hours attempting to remove it I'm contemplating leaving the old one in place.

Jeremy

By the way, I did see a few interesting cars in Israel. Most notably a few Citroen 2CVs. I've posted pictures of the cars, roads, and some trip highlights at photos.yahoo.com/jeremysmgb .
J. Palgon

I always seem to take the long approach. When I did my complete engine/transmission and clutch rebuild, I cut the flex hose to make it easier to get the pieces apart.

I also removed the hard line from the master cylinder to the flex hose.

The flex hose nuts had frozen (rust) solid. Once I got the hard line out of the way, I was able to get a socket over the nut on the top of the bracket and get the rest of the hose etc. out of the way.

If I remember right when I put it back together I attached the hose to the mount point sans hard line, ( I believe the hard line has a rotating nut on it) It was easier to get a wrench on the upper nut. Then attached the hardline and the slave cylinder.

I learned the hard way that whenever I relpace a master or slave cylinder for leaks or wear, I need to replace the other component. Because the old item will start leaking soon.

Cris
Cris DeYoung

Snap-On makes a nice set of 6 point crowsfoot wrenches. They're perfect for getting on the steel line fitting.
tom

I did this. It drove me crazy when trying to use
conventional open end or combo wrenches.

I agree with Tom in that a set of 6-point
"crow's feet" (crowsfoot) wrenches makes
this job a lot easier. I think Craftsman also
makes a set of these.
Daniel Wong

Thanks for your advice, guys. I borrowed a set of crows feet from my machinist friend. Unfortunately, the flex hose was extraordinarily reluctant to move. It definitely desired to stay right where it was. So, I left it--for now.

I was very anxious to finally get my clutch hydraulics back together so I could actually drive the car. Flex hose aside, my helicoiled new master cylinder went in nicely. My new slave cylinder was very, very stiff. I had to work very hard just to get it to loosen up enough to insert the rod and remount it. After bleeding the system a number of times, and a lot of pumping, it eventually loosened up.

So finally, for the first time in a couple months, I took the car out for a short drive; and I'm pleased to report that the clutch is working fine and the hydraulic system does not appear to be leaking.

Thanks as always,
Jeremy
J. Palgon

I can sympathise completely having just spent a hour or more on my back under the car doing this job. My job for today is supposed to be fitting a new fuel line but so far I have found one of the studs on my new floor pans had a bung thread so I had to fix that up. These are the studs the rubber blocks that hold the fuel and brake lines in place attach to. Of course it was the front most one. The one with least access. Then I was looking at my clutch slave hose thinking that looks a bit tight. Is it in the right place? Came in and checked my manuals and MG is born pictures. Nope. When I got it new the bleed screw and hose positions were reversed. So I had to get it undone. Ah, problem. In the end I pulled off the slave bolts and then pulled the slave off the pin so it was hanging free then I could unscrew the hose since the whole damn thing would turn. On the other end I removed the hard line to the master cylinder and droped a socket over the nut. Then with a big spanner I was able to undo the other end of the hose. What a pain. As far as I can see when you put it all back together the hose is going to end up with a twist in it. No wonder the things fail.

Simon
Simon Jansen

Simon,
I got the flex hose off the slave in just the manner you describe. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the hard line from the master out--so the flex hose was stuck. When I reinstalled the slave, I couldn't find a way to not twist the flex hose to reattach it. So, it not has a single twist in it. Luckily, after a couple of days of driving it, I can report that all is well. No problems shifting and no leaks (yet).

Jeremy
J. Palgon

To fit the flexible hose without twisting.
Remove the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, fit the hose to the slave cylinder as tight as possible, refit the slave cylinder to the clutch housing, tighten the hose connection the last little bit (perhaps 1/4 turn, if that).

P STABLER

This thread was discussed between 23/01/2006 and 31/01/2006

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