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MG MGB Technical - Removing Windshield Without Removing Dash (Facia)

Is it possible to remove and replace the windshield assembly without removing the dash facia?
It looks like it might be possible with the patience of Jobe, long thin fingers, and the skill of a contortionist.
Has anyone done this before? If so any advice would be appreciated? 1973 mgb roadster.

Thanks,
Ralph
Ralph

If you can get to the four bolts (2 each side) you can do it. Good luck.
Mike Howlett

Ralph,
A gear wrench helps.
Jim
James Wiebe

I have done it multiple times on our 66 MGB. The drivers side is not too bad, but the passenger side is hard due to the glove box. As I remember, I remover the glove box on the last go around to make it a bit easier. I also cut off a box end wrench (ring spanner) to make access a bit easier. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

This is all in the archives. I haver managedto get it back in without a helper. Also if you are renewing the seal to the scuttlle you heed to put a string through the "tube" it makes to pull it into postion once you have the screen in place
Stan Best

Quite easy on a UK tin dash at least.

Remove the glovebox card on the one side and the overdrive switch and fuel gauge on the other. That allows you to get at the two bolts either side - on the drivers side with an appropriate length socket extension so the handle (wrapped in tape to avoid chipping the wrinkle) sticks through the fuel gauge hole. The two centre bolts can't be fully removed until the screen is raised a bit, and on replacement must be started before the screen is fully seated. However you can shorten the two bolt a bit, grinding a point back on, to make this uneccessary.

I removed and refitted the screen using the same scuttle seal single-handed - on a newly painted body which was a bit nerve-wracking. But on a glass replacement they insisted on replacing that seal, and it was a right pain both to get inserted to the frame and the frame down far enough to get the bolts in.
PaulH Solihull

OK, thanks. I'll give it a whirl. The lower one on each side doesn't look too bad but the upper ones, I expect will be a lot harder to re-install than to remove.

Ralph
Ralph

Get the lower ones in first, with the screen tilted forwards a bit, then angle the screen back to get the upper ones it. It helps to use a screwdriver or bar narrower than the bolt to check the holes are lined up, and to use bolts with pointed ends.
PaulH Solihull

You will probably find some packing pieces in there as well between the screen lug and body. Just keep and re-fit.
Stan Best

They (a thick one in all cars and thin ones to suit) should be retained by a Pozidrive screw between the two bolts. Leave the screw when removing the screen and it will keep these in place.
PaulH Solihull

I did my 73B alone about 5 years ago. I think the 2 most important points were to:

1. make sure the frame assembly screws were replaced in their correct locations (so as not to hit the edge of the glass) and

2. putting the spacer shims back in on the mounting legs.

I've read that if these steps are followed correctly your brand new costly (and painfully installed) windshield can crack rather quickly. I held my breath for a month or two and came out okay.

BH Davis
BH Davis

"I've read that if these steps are followed correctly your brand new costly (and painfully installed) windshield can crack rather quickly."

Er, do you mean NOT followed correctly?
PaulH Solihull

It's probably a bit late to comment now (I've been on holiday), but I replaced the glass, and hence the screen, without removing the dash, and single-handedly.

In fact, I did it twice in quick succession because the first time I replaced it I retained the original fibre spacers, not realising at the time that they had compressed - no doubt where they had got wet on numerous occasions. As a result I was able to over-tighten the bolts, curving the screen frame too much, and within a day it had cracked the glass.

Lesson learned - always replace the spacers (packing pieces). Worth bearing in mind if you have to do the job some time in the future.
John Bilham

I just went thru this ordeal on my 72. I would strongly recommend taking the time to remove the dash partially. Remove the Tach Speedo Vents and Glove box. The nuts holding the top of the dash are very tricky to get at however it is possible. No need to remove the oil line to the guage as you do not have to move the dash far enough to need to disconnect.If this sounds complicated do not remove the bolts from the windscreen frame with the dash in place as you will miss an entire summer trying to locate the holes end up stripping the threads in the aluminum frame. THEN you will be removing the dash to do the job anyway. I just did the bottom seal this spring and after much hesitation removed the dash the process was still painfull. Oh ya the windscreen cracked after 1 month of driving. Worst job on the MGB PERIOD
GregG
g e granstrom

To do a nice refinishing of the dash itself, is this difficult? I as yet have not plucked up enough courage to remove it, because the bolts look so in accessible! I am even entertaining the idea of removing the seats, so that I can lie down upside down( yes, alright we are already upside down in Oz!) more comfortably. And yes, I have removed the seats a few times, that can be a hassle since finding the seat runner bolt holes while carpet is in place is tricky. Any tricks? Mike
J.M. Doust

This is not too bad a job. Remove the glovebox and the fuel gauge and overdrive switch then working with 3/8"sq drive sockets you can reach the bolts fairly easily. The difficulty is refitting where you need to get one person to pull down on the screen then insert a taper punch through one of the holes to align it. Swivel the screen until the other bolt lines up then insert the screws. I should have said to make sure that all bolts thread easily when the screen is on the ground. Fit the centre bolts first before pulling the screen right down and fully tighten when the side bolts have been fitted. No need to remove the seats and lie on the floor.
Iain MacKintosh

On the drivers side, you can remove the brake test light switch and fit a socket through the hole with a small extension on the rearward bolt. On the right side, remove the glove box and use a universal joint and socket. That's how I do it. PJ
Paul J

This thread was discussed between 03/07/2011 and 27/07/2011

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