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MG MGB Technical - Respray needed

I've been wanting to respray my 78 MGB "rubbernose" for quite a while. It still has the original paint which was touched up every couple of years by the original owner to fix stone chips. Since I bought it almost 4 years ago I've polished and waxed it religiously (using Autoglym of course) but couldn't stop myself driving it long enough for the respray it deserves.

I'm about to lose my license for 3 month (damn double-demerits during holidays) so I figured I have the excuse to take it off the road now.

I want to do as much of this as I can myself. I figure I might need someone to do the actual spray work, but I definitely want to do everything to prepare it for that stage. If possible I'd like to try the spray work as well.

I've got all the equipment I need except a spray gun. I have a wide choice of air compressors I can borrow from a few friends (everything from a small home-user type up to an industrial one). I'd buy a new spray gun to match the compressor, or the other way around choose the compressor to match a spray gun. First question is does anybody have any suggestions on the brand and/or type of gun I should be looking for?

Otherwise, my main question is where can I find a comprehensive step-by-step guide on disassembling the car (and of course putting it back together) for this job? I've found a great article on the MGB Experience web site about Painting 101, but as far as disassemly goes it doesn't give any details. It just reminds you to keep note of where things go so you can re-assemble it later. Much more detail is given in the instructions for stripping, sanding and spraying the panels, but it assumes I know how to disassemble the car.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

Dave
Sydney - Australia

P.S. I'm looking for that message that tells me Paul Hunt has finally moved to sunny Sydney and set up a workshop.
D O'Brien

Hmmm, as far as disassembly goes you just remove every screw and bolt you can find and most things will just fall off :o) Roadsters are easier than GTs but have a couple of tricky areas for the unwary, like the trim strips, cockpit rear rail, dashboard. The trim strips have one stud and nut fixing on the front of the front strips and the rear of the rear strips (look for this first then you will know what to look for in the muck up front) and possibly somewhere on the middle strip. The they just ping off the remainder of the fixings. the cockpit rail has some of its stud and nut fixings in the cavity behind the B-posts and some in small gaps under the rail in the cabin, all are fiddly to get at. The dashboard has a few nuts best searched for from underneath looking up, then you can remove the front cockpit rail. Best to take off what you can and ask for any specifics.

I keep encouraging son and daughter-in-law to emigrate as an advance guard after they said they might but I'm still waiting :o)
Paul Hunt

Dave,
iam nearly finish with a gt project that i though it would be easyer, but i would not do it now.
Once you start stripping you find something wrong and keep doing until its total naked..thats not bad.

to rebuild takes 4 times as much, lots of back and headache, need proper tools, books, and people were you can rely for spares, etc...

by the end you which that never happened...

the windscreens and tail gate glass and trims are a pain to fit, i would leave it to pros..

keep bolts and nuts taged and separated

thats my point of view....could be worse...


Alfredo
alfredo

Dave,
It really depends on how far you want to go. If you just want a respray in the same color, a good paint shop will mask off the trim with good results. Of course the more things you remove the better the results are. Be careful of the domino effect where each part you remove reveals a little more work needed until you find yourself with bare shell. Not that that's bad, it just may be more than you wanted to do.
Bill
Bill Boorse

I think you would be well advised to consider that this car has still got its original coat which is remarkable but that it has been touched up "every couple of years"

Unless all paint is removed there is a risk that any new coats will craze and this of course will spoil the finish. Yes you could apply an isolator coat but that to some extent is only covering up previous layers and maybe problems. I would certainly advise the removal of all paint whereupon you may have a few repairs to do and then have a bare metal respray which would guarantee the best finish and maximum life.
Iain MacKintosh

It's not entirely step by step but the Lindsay Porter mgb restoration book is helpful.

Search for "Mgb: Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration" in Amazon.com.

Also I agree with what Bill says. Once you start pulling things off you will start thinking well since this is off I might as well fix this up....

Before you know it you're rebuilding everything!



Simon Jansen

Thanks all for the advice.

Back to bare metal was where I was most likely heading. I figured once I started stripping things down I would find one thing after another needed repair, but then I also figured if I want the car to last another 27 years I should do this properly and not just touch up the paintwork.

I've read a few things that suggest I'll probably find rust damage around door sills, posts, etc. I really don't want to use "bog" or whatever they call it in UK. Even the metal based stuff I figure is only good for cheating the old magnet test for used car buyers. It's not for sale so I don't plan to cheat myself on that test.
I don't have welding equipment so I'm hoping when I get the car stripped down I can get that part of the work done at a proper panel shop.

I know a full restoration is out of the question with my finances. I'd like to do it in stages and the repaint seems the obvious place to start while I have 3 months to spare. Stripping it down for this job should reveal any other major things I need to consider when I get around to the other stages.
Maybe later this year I'll tackle the carpets, then next year onto to rest of the interior (which doesn't need much work at all).
Last I'll replace any remaining brightware that isn't already in good condition.

P.S. My 3 months suspension begins in about 4 weeks. I've got until then to get any spare parts and extra tools I might need. Meanwhile I'm back to watching "Rides" on Discovery Channel for more tips.
D O'Brien

Good idea that, watching rides for ispiration, don't watch MTV Pimp My Ride or your "B" might end up with 20" phat chrome rims and 10 TV's in it.
John

This thread was discussed between 02/03/2005 and 05/03/2005

MG MGB Technical index

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