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MG MGB Technical - Restoration Sequence What would You do?

All the bodywork and painting will be done on my 67BGT soon and I get to put it all back together with new or restored parts. Any thoughts on the order of major things? Would you drop in the engine and gearbox and then do the fuel and brake plumbing and the wiring harness? Harness first? Brakes last? Steering before or after? Someone who has done this give me the benefit of your experience? I feel like the last thing could be the engine and gearbox (besides cosmetic things like the interior and trim etc) but I am usually standing there later saying I wish I had thought of that sooner. This was a complete bare metal restoration so it is EVERYTHING going back together. Thanks.
Ralph

Ralph - good question. I'm where you're at. I would definitely do engine and transmission last. I haven't completely worked out my own game plan, but am thinking after making sure all body panels, doors and grille are fitted properly

1)windshield washer nozzles with tubing to engine bay
2)wiring harness run and secured
3)heater box
4)brake and fuel lines run and secured
5)vinyl cover to dash deck
6)windshield vent ducts
7)door vent windows
8)windshield mounted and aligned with vent windows
9)door glass regulator and latching hardware
10)door glass seals installation
11)door glass
12)dash assembly mounting with necessary electrical,
heater control, oil/temp and speedo cable connections
13)install brake/clutch master cylinder box and gas pedal
14)steering column aligned and secured

I'm sure that I've already made some poor choices, so will stop and wait for suggested corrections.
Steve Buchina

There are many tasks where the order is not critical.
However, the engine and gearbox go in quite late. After the brake plumbing, pedals, loom, heater etc. Also the front and rear suspension need to go on before the brake plumbing.

If the front wings have been painted off the car I would leave them untill late in the process as it reduces damage risk and improves access.
David Witham

Interior is always last.

If you want to do better sound/heat insulation, do it BEFORE adding the dash and its components. Insulation needs to cover the ENTIRE firewall ~ from cowl to shelf, underside of shelf, then finally down to the floor.

Then, do the Dash.

After Steve's list, then add:

After that add the exterior trim (bumpers, side strips, lamps, grille, etc

As David says, Engine and tranny plus driveshaft near last, with radiator etc following those.

Finally, add:
Headliner, and other A,B,C pillar covers (if you have a GT)
Door panels, forward and rear kick panels
Speakers
Center console
Carpeting
Seats
Fill fluids, bleed brakes and clutch slave
Install battery.


Bob Muenchausen

Sorry, center console AFTER carpet.
Bob Muenchausen

Insightful information.... I have the front suspension assembly completed except the springs. I was going to bolt the whole assembly on the car and wait to place the springs in place until i had the weight of the engine to help. Good idea or not needed?
Raph

Ralph,

Not sure if you did this before paint, but check the fitting of the grill before paint work. I have heard that the repro stuff is awful.

Shareef
Shareef Hassan

why is everyone saying engine last?(just wondering)
just that i run fuel line
mounted gearbox
suspension
engine
exhaust
front to rear loom
front to rear brake lines
tank
loom
pedal boxes
brake lines
battery lines
heater
dash top
dashboard
lights
horns
battery
check all electrics
carbs
fuel lines
last interior
ste


Ste Brown

Ste,

To me, the most obvious need for installing the engine last is in running the brake line across the front crossmember. Many years ago, when I was even more naive than I am now, I tried running that brake line with the engine in place. I got it done, but it was a miserable job! It seems to me that the best approach is to do the least accessible things first. That would include hydraulic and fuel plumbing, and wiring.

This is a really good thread; I plan to print it out when it's exhausted and keep it handy for when I reassemble the painted '65 shell that's been sitting in my shop for nearly two years. On that car, there is absolutely nothing attched to the shell itself, so front and rear suspension will come first, just to get the thing on its own wheels.

There are ways to compress front springs without the engine in the car. Loop a HEAVY chain around the crossmember behind the shocks, and around/under the trolley jack. Secure the chain to itself with a heavy bolt: 7/16" or 1/2". Put the spring in place and with the trolley jack under the spring pan, start jacking until the upper trunnion engages the shock arms. Be cautious - I wouldn't want to be in the path of one of these springs run amuk. But it strikes me that the danger is the same as when relying on the engine weight to accomplish the same thing. No I won't be responsible for your results, but I've done this before and will do it again.

FWIW,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

allen
i know what you meanbut you can do it from underneath with it on axle stands(talking pipe work here)
i made my pipes on the car with the hand flanger so a lot simpler and you can route all pipes and wires at same time so you dont have any crossing each other
as for the front suspension we are lucky we have a 4 post ramp and its very easy just put it under it and lower it into postion in no time at all
ste
Ste Brown

"This is a really good thread; I plan to print it out when it's exhausted and keep it handy for when I reassemble the painted '65 shell..."

Allen,
I agree - this could be a most helpful thread for us in the process (e.g., Ralph) and those who will soon start. Wondering if we might slow down a bit and take it, say, ten steps at a time and concentrate first on the metal dash B's ('62-'67).

"There are many tasks where the order is not critical."

David,
Agreed, these could be listed separately or ID'd through their omission.

"If you want to do better sound/heat insulation, do it BEFORE adding the dash and its components. Insulation needs to cover the ENTIRE firewall ~ from cowl to shelf, underside of shelf, then finally down to the floor."

Bob,
Good point and I agree. My original '66 didn't have the insulation, but I sure plan on adding it.

"why is everyone saying engine last?(just wondering)"

Ste,
My primary reason is that I see no advantage to it. I see some instances where I might find myself either standing or sitting (board across the rails) in the engine bay (hood removed). Installation of the heater box comes to mind. I've done it both ways and it sure was easier with the engine gone.

Can we start again on steps 1 through 10 and see if we can (as a group) reach a consensus. Given that all body panels, doors and grille are fitted properly, front and rear suspensions are mounted and from what has been posted so far, will someone care to start us off. I'm willing to summarize every day with a midnight to 1 AM (CST, USA) posting.

P.S.
The numerical sequence within a sectioned group (e.g., engine bay, cockpit) probably isn't that important, but pointing out problems if one installs item A before item B - is (e.g., ever try installing windshield spray nozzles with the dash in place).

Steve Buchina

Ralph: I did not do a total tear down on my 67 GT but did a full paint job and interior.

If you have the windows all out, I recommend doing the windshield on the GT towards the end. Not having it in the way makes it easier to get an extra set of hands for dash works.

Putting the heater in without the engine would also be easier. With the dash out, it is easier to get to the heater vents also.

Headliner should also go in prior to the windshield. Even easier if the hatch is off.
BEC Cunha

Ralph-
I pretty much agree with most of what's posted above, but I do have one worthwhile tip: Do everything in the engine compartment before you try to install the engine/transmission package. That way you can actually put a small chair inside the engine compartment and sit down to do the close, fiddly work at your ease.
Steve S.

i know this may sound silly but i am 6foot tall and my dad is 5 foot 10 inches and in the last 5 yrs we have built 2 concours cars with the engine in before the other engine items installed
i would stuggle to sit in the engine bay due to my size and im skinny
my arms are long enough to have no trouble reaching the parts im fitting
most parts are made up before you install them
you work down one side of the inner wing then the other
i have plenty of pics of the rebuild if anyone needs any for a early mgb roadster
my web page is
www.mgste.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
i can post them on there if needed


my way works for me but may not work for most people
ste
Ste Brown

I also did my brake lines after putting engine and gearbox in and while it is doable I don't recommend it either!

Also don't decide to remove the rear ARB you're installed everything in the rear end. That was really difficult to remove afterwards! You won't have that problem on a 67 though of course :)

Simon
Simon Jansen

Ste,
I would really like to see any (or all) photos you might have on the early B's. Close-ups of the engine bay would be most helpful. Proper hydraulic line routing and clamp placements are often forgotten.
Steve Buchina

Ste,
Couldn't resist checking out the cars on your website. That is one beautiful Roadster, excellent job!
Eric Martin

thanks everyone for comments
steve
if you go to the restoration picson left it then drops down a list of rebuild /welding and there is one for cableand pipe routing on there as a lot of people would like to look at them pics so id already put some on
ste
Ste Brown

Wow. A lot of nice work there Ste. One question I have is regarding the fan on the 63. In the US that was a three blade fan. Your's appears to be the 6 blade that we in the US saw around 1968.
BEC Cunha

from what i gather the first ones used up the spares from the mga where they could so it came with this metal fan as new
some of the relays say 1961 on them o a 1963 car so i thik it is a case of what they lay there hands on
my car has the chrome surround on the clock cowl which was stopped in may but my car is aug
ste
Ste Brown

I brought it up because I have a MKI GT that is only 300 from the end of the MK1. It has the 6 fan. At our MG 2006, my car was jugded and they said the 6 fan was not correct until 68. I also feel that Abbington used what they had and it is entirly possible that they used the 6 fan for my 67.
BEC Cunha

To Ste Brown, West Yorkshire, UK , excellent pics. It looks like you did a first class job. Congrats, Geoff
P.S. I'm saving your pics - Thanks
Geoff Lund

Thanks Geoff

My email address is at the bottom of the first page on my web site if anyone needs a specific pic.
I will send it or post it on there for them.

In the UK the 3 metal blade was early in production until the 70s so 67 over here should have had a metal 3 blade but they could of had some lying about from the MGA still.

The metal 6 blade did not resurface over here and went to a plastic fan after this so USA must have had there own specs for engines compared to UK
Is it poss that diff states had diff fan blades for the heat or did australia have a 6 blade and were mixed up at factory for which country they were going to?
ste
Ste Brown

Job 1 should be to go around all the captive threads with the correct tap to clean out paint etc.
David Witham

Excellent thread guys.

I have just finished stripping out my 1972 Roadster and am now beating the rust bug to death. Then comes the paint strip and respray, so I'm some months (years?) away from re-assembly.
I was going to fit the new panels (front wings, re-skinned doors, straightened out aluminium bonnet - don't ask!, new boot) before respray to make sure the gaps are good, and then remove them for spraying. To my mind this pretty well ensures easy spray access and allows me to make sure there is no paint crack possibility between wings and shroud. Any thoughts?

My own re-assembly ideas were much as Ralph's and I shall definitely be installing engine and transmission last simply because of access, and anyway I have a stool which fits the bay!

To Ste Brown, West Yorkshire, UK. Superb job! This is my first rebuild and your photos are a great inspiration, and so helpful! On this latter point I was thinking someone needs to produce a site with shots of all the pipe/cable/hose runs, fastenings used etc etc. It's so easy to strip a car, but the other direction???? Anyone know of one...or a book (other than Clausager)of the same?
Richard Coombs

richard
before you spray your doors boot and engine bay use brushable seam sealer(make sure its overpaintable)to all the seams esp around inside of boot lid lip and door lips
it looks bad at first but once painted you dont see it and no water getting from outside inwards
i set up my wings and bonnet then drilled a hole under the bonnet rubber block and a pair through the bonnet hinges one at front one at back with an 1/8 drill bit
i then took the wings of to spray paint all under the wings so no bare painted metal showing then seam sealered them back on using the drill bit in the holes as a guide to bolt them in the exact position you set the wing/bonnet up
the bonnet can then be fit after spraying using 2 1/8 drills so you get the exact height and postion without damaging any paint
seal all the joints in the engine bay as well
you wont regret it
ste
Ste Brown

Ste
The best ideas are the simplest. Thanks.
Richard
Richard Coombs

I thought I would bring this thread up to the top -

I also am restoring a 1972 MGB - an full tear-down and rebuild. Body work is done, but I am still sanding and primering - getting it ready for a top coat.

Engine is done, front and rear suspensions have been done - I might get to re-do the front shocks, once I get it all back together!

I took notes as I dis-assembled the car. I remember the wiper rack had to go in before or after something else - that got noted. I will consult those notes as it goes back together.

The factory's assembly might get followed. Suspensions and wiring and interior went in before motor/ trans. Heater, lights, brake lines - all of that was done. I may wait on bolting the seats in - until the motor is in....

Drew Helgeson

If you got to ask, why are you undertaking such a project? Always amazes me when people ask questions such as this or questions such as "What size is the bolt in my hand?"
Andy

Yeah, hard to believe that some of us would have to ask questions of those more experienced in the hobby. I wish I was one of those "special" project guys that must have been born with the intellect and skill to complete a project without any type of learning curve. Last time I checked, a forum was designed to be an exchange of information.....some have more than others. I am almost certain this is a 5/16 bolt in my hand..... Thanks to those that helped with real life answers. Great forum.
Ralph

Just another comment - when I rebuilt my 1971 MGB GT I joined the engine, box and fitted the box cross member then, after fitting out the engine bay installed the whole lot from underneath just lifting it the minimum to drop engine on mounts. Then i fitted the front cross member - worked a treat and low risk on the paintwork !!!
Andrew

This thread was discussed between 12/01/2007 and 04/02/2007

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