MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Roadster screen

The bad news is I have to replace the screen (the good news is that finally I may be able to stop the leaks between glass and rubber/rubber and frame).

Between the two bolts that hold the frame in the body there is a Pozidrive screw, what does this do? Does it hold some kind if clamping bar in place? Does it need to be slackened to ease the adjustment when refitting? It is 14 years since I last removed and refitted the screen and I can't remember if I touched the screw or not. Porter shows it removed in picture RSR1 on page 38 when pointing out the screen mounting bolts but doesn't mention the screw. I'm concerned that if it is holding a clamping bar in-situ and I remove it at the same time as the screen bolts then the bar may move out of position. I'm expecting to do this with the dashboard in-situ (UK tin dash), I have been able to remove the main bolts, although curiously enough only by removing the fuel gauge and overdrive switch and going in the through the gauge hole on the RHS, I can do it with the glovebox in position on the left.

TIA,
PaulH.
Paul Hunt

Paul, have a word with Ed Biddle at EB Engineering in Little Malvern who specialises in mgb roadster screens supplying to MGOC. Sorry but you'll have to look the phone book as I haven't got his number handy. I picked one up from him a couple of years ago, absolutely suberb job and a very approachable chap who I'm sure would pass n the information to you especially knowing that he may become recommended on this BBS. He also does full recons on SU carbs.
Iain MacKintosh


Paul,

Did this a few years ago. Believe the screw retains the packing to body.

Regards,

John
John U

Don't know about the screw, it's 10 years since I did my last window and vowed never to do that again if I could help it, but I just wanted to tell you that when you're down there in the footwell in an unnatural position, cursing, sweating and stripping your knuckles bare, turning that spanner around and around because it can't make a swing, you can find courage in the knowledge we're all thinking about you!
Willem van der Veer

Paul,

It does indeed hold the packing but it should be kept loose for adjustment/alignment until all windscreen to body bolts are back in. Then final tighten the pozi drive.

BTW, for the amount of contortion work needed to do this job, it takes far less time if you unbolt the dash and let it dangle. Just my 2 pence but it is easier in the long run. Good Luck!!
Paul Hanley

Nothing useful to add to this thread but I wanted to say that in my time I have replaced several windscreensm all UK cars with metal dashboards. A couple of weeks ago I changed a US 1979 screen - what a difference! You can get at every single one of the bolts without removing anything except the fibre boards hiding all the wiring etc. (yep - our B still has those in place)! That screen was almost fun - from start to finish the job took less than an hour, that was just swapping complete frame and glass assemblies over, it would obviously take longer to replace the glass in the frame.
The Wiz

I have been there in the last 10 days. I think you will find 2 bolts on each side and a small bolt on the end of the rear view mirror rod. That is it. The screws (If I am understanding you) hold an Aluminum puck that acts as a spacer to tighten down the windshield. You don't need to remove them. If you do, you will be forced to fish the puck out and realign it - not hard to do - so its not a big deal either way.

I would like to refinish my frame - Any ideas about this? I would like to hear about your experience.
F Murch

Paul, the screw does indeed hold a packing and doesn't really need to be loosened. I had to because I built a frame out of several to get what I wanted. The fitting required a lot of adjustment to get right and I had to modify the holes that the bolts go through. The main cause of this was a front wing that had been replaced; it changed the way the frame fit slightly and put too much pressure on the vent window.

Also, inside the door jam, there is a small piece of sheet metal that gives access to the inside of the body where the packing is. You can drill the rivets out and get the packing out or just have a look see.

As Paul noted, it is much easier to get the bolts out and certainly back in without the dash in place.

I used this method to get the frame back in place:

http://www.mgbexperience.com/howto/windscreen/mg.html

You can see two of the rivets that have to come out in the first picture if you want to get access to the frame leg from the back. Not usually necessary.

Worked well both times I had to pull the windshield.

Murch, I used Easy-Off oven cleaner to remove the tattered annodizing and buffed the frame. Left it unfinished. A touch of Nevr-Dull once a month keeps it looking great.
Wray Lemke

Paul, what Wray says about the samll piece of sheet metal is a lifsaver. I too used the info at the website he mentioned and it made it so much easier. I resisted for a long time as I didn't want to drill on my new paint job, but finally relented, and glad I did.

Just my 2 cents worth (2.5 cents US, 4.6 cents U.K)

Ken
Ken Harris

Thanks for all the comments.

Despite the strong recommendation to remove the dash, and finally relenting and removing the glovebox (which really only needing unscrewing and pushing back, not completely removing) as well as the fuel gauge and overdrive switch all of which only took a few minutes, I could have had the screen out in under an hour. I've slackened the Pozidrives ready for adjustment when it goes back in. If it gets a new bottom seal this time then it may be more difficult to line up the holes, but last time reusing the seals it dropped right back into place and all the holes lined up, and that was single-handed on a brand-new paint job.
Paul Hunt

Ah, if you replace the lower seal it will be far more than a one man job, two or maybe even three men, or women depending on who you can get your hands on !! Agreed though, because when I rebuilt my roadster a couple of years ago I fitted the dash first and thought I had dropped a clanger. Switch off and glovebox out is all that's needed.
Iain MacKintosh

This thread was discussed between 17/08/2004 and 19/08/2004

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.