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MG MGB Technical - Shock Absorber Questions
I'm in the process of replacing my rear shockies with uprated lever arms, I'm getting just the uprated springs for my left hand shocks and complete uprated new units on the right side, where the seals have blown - and have a couple of quick questions: 1) Can anyone describe how one goes about installing the springs in place of the ones already in there? 2) How does one remove the shock link pin from the lever arm - of course I've removed the bolt, but it doesn't seem to want to come off...and is it supposed to swivel? Mine are both pretty frozen and creak when I move 'em. Thanks! |
Curtis Walker |
Not wishing to bump my own thread ;) but I sorted out question one. Any help with how to seperate the lever arm from the linking pin much appreciated though! |
Curtis Walker |
Lots of heat worked for me but with a lot of smoke too. |
Steve Postins |
I have removed them with a hammer and anvil. Remove the shock and arm. Lay the arm arm on the anvil and use the hammer on the arm around the link bolt, one or two hits with the hammer will normally break the link loose. Anti-seize the link bolt when replaced. Clifton |
Clifton Gordon |
Thanks, I'll give it a go tomorrow. BTW, I meant I'd removed the nut, not the bolt - that's what's still holding the shock to the link pin! |
Curtis Walker |
Put a ball joint remover on it and wind it up hard. If it doesn't move and with the pressure still on put one side of the eye in the anvil of a large vice and strike it diagonally opposite with a 2lb hammer. Heat is OK but in this case you will knacker the drop link. |
Iain MacKintosh |
Remove the bolted on shock arm, use a 5/32drill to drill some rubber out of the top knuckle bushes, unbolt the shock & lever the top knuckle bolt & bushes out of the knuckle, remove remainder of bushes on the bench. Garth. |
Garth Bagnall |
Hey Curtis What's your email? Ian F |
Ian Fraser |
What ?? and destroy the drop arm, that's crackers. |
Iain MacKintosh |
Garth - I didn't mean the shock arms themselves! Just the link pin between the shock arm and the spring! I initially didn't want to whack it too hard in case something broke, but then I realised it was just a snug fit, and it came out (on my foot) with a good hit with a hammer. Ian - see this posting :) |
Curtis Walker |
I must be thick because I don't understand. Don't take the arm off the shocker or you will lose the setting and don't remove any rubber from the drop arm balls. I have no idea where the bushes are as the pins are moulded into the knuckle joints. Frankly I don't see a problem with this if you have a ball joint splitter and hit it with a BFK as long as the eye is supported at 180 degrees from the hammer. |
Iain MacKintosh |
BFK? Single-malt for hammer? :o) Always thought it should be FBH anyway. |
Paul Hunt 2 |
Single malt will do fine. What's your poison, will Glenmorangie do? I agree that would be better but H in any case. |
Iain MacKintosh |
But I have to get the link pin off, or I can't replace the worn out shock! To clarify for all confused, here's a pictorial: http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/MGB-050.gif I simply meant removing #1 from #2 (now accomplished, along with a bruised toe) |
Curtis Walker |
I thought that's what you were trying to do Curtis. It's not that bad a job but can be made easier if you unbolt the shocker, link and spring bottom plate if you have to and all as one unit and then separate them on the bench. Ball joint splitter and hammer is still the way and add some heat to the eye but sheild the link arm from this or you will render it U/S |
Iain MacKintosh |
No, not bad at all, and yes, I do have the shockies off the car...as I said, the worst bit was having the link pin drop out on my toe! |
Curtis Walker |
This thread was discussed between 05/02/2006 and 13/02/2006
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