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MG MGB Technical - Shocks and Bushes

Hi,

Does anybody know of a company that rebuilds shock absorbers in the Southern Ontario, Canada area. My front shocks on my '71B are getting progressively worse, although they don't appear to be leaking. The fluid is up the hole as far as I can see. I tried filling them with Moss Amstrong oil and it just ran back out, although as the nozzle of the bottle is larger than the filler hole that's not suprising. Is it pssible to drain the old oil with the shocks in situ, if so how?

Also, what is the recomendation for front end bushings? My local supplier just lists them as "Heavy Duty" but doesn't list the manufacturer.

Thanks

Ken
K.G. Martin

Ken,
I don't know of any rebuilders in Canada, but Apple Hydraulics is in Calverton NY which may be close. Its possible but pretty difficult to drain the shocks while on the car. You have to remove (or at least loosen) the cover plate which is on the back side of the shock when mounted. It would be just as easy to remove the shock. There was a thread either here or in the MGA board on the subject about a week ago. If you remove the shock you can drain, flush and make sure its properly filled then test for correct function while its on the bench. If it needs rebuilding you already have it out.

I use a trigger/pump type oil can with a flexible spout to fill my shocks. The nozzle is small enough to fit the fill hole and the flexible spout allows easy access. Also make sure you cycle the shock each time you add oil by bouncing the suspension up and down a few times. The shocks trap air easily and often appear full when they're not.

Bill
Bill Boorse

I can't help you with the shocks.

You're going to get varying opinions on the bushings. I've fallen into the V8 bushing. This is a one piece rubber bushing with a metal sleave. The original is a two piece set with no sleave. Your other option is polyurethane.

Search for "a-arm bushings", "bushings", "front suspension", "front suspension rebuild", etc. in the archives and you will find volumes on this subject.

Good luck.
Brad Batchelor

Ken. Probably the best rebuilt shocks on the market are those of World Wide Auto Parts in Madison, Wisconson. I replaced all of the shocks on my 68 with their rebuilds several years ago and it made a signficant difference. They are available as replacements--in other words, you do not have to have your old shocks rebuilt, you simply purchase the rebuilt units, pay a core charge, install the new shocks and send your old ones back for a refund of the core charge. Total down time of less than a day to replace all four shocks on my car.

As to the bushings, the V-8 style works quite well and I have that on all of my cars. The original style--a two piece unit without the metal reinforcement, does not hold up as well nor does the car handle as crisply as with the V-8 bushings. Les
Les Bengtson

Thanks Guys,
I'm trying to avoid the freight, duties and taxes, not to mention the exchange rate, bringing them over the border, but if I can't find anybody up here I will contact the companies you mention. Unfortunately neither are within easy distance.
As for the bushings, it seems the V8 type is the way to go. They don't mention them in the Moss Catalogue, but I assume they are the ones referenced # 5-174 in the Vic Brit Catalogue for the A-Arm. But what about the upper fulcrum pin bushings etc. Do I assume that they don't carry as much pressure and therefore the poly bushings would be ok?
Ken
K.G. Martin

Ken. The V-8 bushings are Moss stock number 280-498 at $11.95 (US) per set. Page 47, middle of the left hand column in the current catalog. Les
Les Bengtson

My experience is that poly bushings are more reliable than any type of rubber bushing. The only problems I am aware of are a slight increase in ride harshness and squeeking if not properly lubricated at installation. The upper trunion does indeed carry a lot of pressure, and tend to wear as fast or faster than the lower A arm bushings. My A with B suspension is getting poly bushings throughout as well as new lower trunion bushings and distance peices.
Bill Young

KG:

As far as the bushing for the fulcrum pin goes, these bushing gets hammered so you would want to get as good a bushing as possible. I’ve replaced these bushings on both my cars, and in both cases there was almost no bushing left.

The problem I had with the rubber bushing available through the big two is that it isn’t the right bushing. The shape for the correct bushing should look like a miniature clay pot. The ones through the catalogues have no shoulder on them, and will not keep the fulcrum centered. I have a whole bag full of the ‘bad’ bushings; as far as I’m concerned they are useless.

I found what I considered the correct bushing from a local supplier. He wouldn’t say where he got them. You might look into the poly bushing from the ‘catalogues’ or contact superflex (my favorite) in England for these bushings. Front-end work is just too hard to put in flimsy parts.

In the garage checking my panel shut lines…
Bryan
Bryan Prindle

Hi Guys,
It never ceases to amaze me at the respose and assistance available on this site, bloody marvellous!!!
Les, Peter from World Wide Parts has already e-mailed me with prices after seeing the post, so he owes you a bottle of something if I place an order.
Back to bushings - As far as I understand it, I should use V8 Bushings for the A-Arm and Polyurethane or Nylatron for the upper fulcrum. So what about the bushes on the swivel axle and king pin, any preferences or will the Moss Major Suspension Kit do the job?
Are there any other bushes etc. that I would need for the front end? I should add that I will probably take the car down to a local MG mech to do the work as I don't have the neccessary experience and I understand that the lower fulcrum can be a b..ch to get out. But I need to provide all the parts.
Thanks again guys,
Ken
K.G. Martin

Ken, The Swivel axle bushes are bronze/steel affairs and come in the rebuild kits that many outfits sell. They are all made by Quentin-Hazel, so it makes no difference if you buy from Moss, VB, or someone in Canada. If your swivel axles do need rebuilding, I would recommend you have someone do it that has done it before, and done it right. There are far fewer that have done it right than have just done it. You need the right reamer, but that's only the easier part of doing it right. You also need to set the endfloat correctly and most rebuilders don't do that. QH packs far less of an assortment of the shims required for setting that endfloat than they used to, and that would make the job hard for a garage or individual that does the job infrequently at best. Someone like me that rebuilds Swivel axles has an accumulation of parts so it isn't such an issue for those of us that have the knowledge and pride to do it right.

Hope this helps, Wade
Wade Keene

K.G.
I told Wade he could use me as a reference for rebuilt swivel axles. He does a very nice job and I have no complaints with the ones he did for me.
Frank Mooring
Rutherfordton, NC, USA
Frank

Wade,
Ok, nice to know. At the moment I don't know if the king pins / swivel axels need to be worked on. What would be the symptoms. Just about everything feels loose up front when I hit a bit of rough road.
Thanks for the reference Frank.
Ken
K.G. Martin

My 2-cents.
The v-8 bushes are fantastic in comparison to the stock weenies. Polyurethane is even more "tough" if properly installed and lubricated... They do require attention on a periodic basis for a street driven vehicle as they can start to wear severely if they get much in the way of grime inside (as can the bolts).
I would not reccomend all polyurethane on a street rig unless you really like the jarring of road irregularities. If you race or autocross then the trade-off may be worthwhile.
Some compliance is necessary. I believe the combination of v-8 bushes with either nylatron or poly is the best comprimise for street use.
You may also want to check the end-links and frame bushes on the sway bar (if fitted) and the x-member to body pads.

The king-pin is a pretty rugged assembly. Generally, slop is less of a problem than seizing in wet climates. If you can turn the road wheel easily (and the steering wheel gaily spins as you do it) then siezing is not the issue!
To check it, have a decent alignment shop give you a "safety check" (usually free) and any place they identify as suspect you can investigate further. They don't always get it right and just reccoment you have service for "excess play" instead of determining where the excess play is originating (hey, it's free, right?).
If you do suspect slop, jack up a front corner. Have a helper hold the steering wheel and give the tire a good back and forth set of pulls with hands at 9 and 3 and again at 12 and 6. Straight first then try to "lever" the tire off. Note any movement or noises.
There are several areas where play will be exhibited like the aforementioned bushes, king pin and it's bushes, shock absorber pivot bushes, steering rack, tie-rod ends and wheel bearings. This means that any noticeable play will be a combination of motions and you will need to crawl about to get it figured out.

Check out the various posts on suspension woes and bush replacement to get an idea of the variables and methods used to address them.

Or have your local "pro" do it!

Mike!
mike!

This thread was discussed between 24/06/2004 and 25/06/2004

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