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MG MGB Technical - Solenoid/Starter Issues

Well, after going through this thing a few times I have definitly learned more. First, it appears that previous owners have a tendancy to do strange things to their MG's. Wiring diagram only shows three brown wires coming off of the solenoid, mine has five. That part is fine for now.

The problem that remains is the car won't start unless it is pushed. When the key is turned I get a rapid clicking noise. I followed the Electrical Issues troubleshooting trick of bypassing the solenoid with the main lead from the battery. Unfortunatley I couldn't tell if the starter was turning or not.

Anyone have any recommendations on what to try next? I removed the starter and have it apart right now to do a bit of a cleaning. Figured I would look at the inside to see if there was anything obvious. Since there wasn't, I guess I will give it a good cleaning.

Cheers!

Jason
1970 mgb roadster
Jason Coolbaugh

Jason, the rapid clicking is probably the fuel pump, don't worry about that one. While the starter is out of the car you could test is my applying current to the two terminals. (Have the starter clamped down in a vise--IT could get away from you). Just tap the lead on one terminal with the other securely fastened down to the starter. Or you could take it to Pep Boys or Auto Zone type store and have them test it. If the starter is good then the problem is probably the solenoid. You can spring for original Lucas or you could buy a unit that "matches up" from the store that tested the starter---your choice original--- pricey or does the job---cheap. One thing yo might also want to do is go to Kinkos and get a wiring diagram blown up 2 times and then have it laminated (makes reading the diagram a lot easier)! Good Luck, Arch
Arch Boston

Well, at the local AutoZone the starter test showed that I was getting 67 Amps on their little meter. Their documentation showed that the maximum was 80 Amps. He didn't think that it was bad since it was near the max number. I also noticed that the starter gear did move from the solenoid actuator arm.

How does one actually tell if these bits are bad if they appear to actually be working?

As for my wiring issues, the confusion was created by creative wiring from a PO. The schematics I have seem to be big enough at this point. Plus the help of the schematics that are on this website (see the links at the top of MGB Technical for Electrical) are great. I just found these yesterday. What a wonderful thing. I have never noticed them before and have been coming here for just under a year.

Jason
1970 MGB Roadster
Jason Coolbaugh

A solenoid's rapid clicking shouldn't sound anything like a fuel pump. A low battery or poor connections to the battery would cause the problems you are having.
George B.

Well, finished putting that starter back in and still get the rapid clicking. I am now at a bit of a loss.

I have fixed all the connections and wiring that was suspect in that area. The battery was fine and fully charged when this problem started.

Any other ideas out there? I am off to watch the last half of the French GP now.

Jason
Jason Coolbaugh

There is a starter relay about an inch behind your fuse box. If the connections are good you may want to replace it. A good test is to take a voltmeter and try to start the car with the voltmeter connected to battery. If the voltage drops considerably it is either a bad connection or bad battery. If you still get 12 or so volts and the starter is in good shape, and it sounds like it is, test you relay to make sure you have 12v in and 12v out. They can wear over the years and lose conductivity. If your really in a pinch sometimes you can take it a part and sand down the cotacts inside. This may give it a little more life.
J Arthurs

Please don't change the thread title half-way through diagnosing a problem, nor to advise us of a fix. Check the original thread for more suggestions.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 21/07/2002 and 23/07/2002

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