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MG MGB Technical - Steering pinion oil seal

My steering oil leak has gradually gotten worse, even as I've replaced other gaskets in the area. I'm now fairly certain my leak is caused by a faulty pinion oil seal.

Must I remove the steering rack to replace the seal, or is it easier to replace by decoupling at the u-joint?
Fred Doyen

It's going to be pretty awkward to replace this seal without removing the rack. You've got to take the U/J bolt out anyway but I'd be going for taking the rack out. Fairly simple job, undo the U/J take out the four rack bolts and break the track rod end taper. Alternatively remove the steering arms as well by removing the two bolts on each which avoids breaking the taper joints. Take notes of any shims under the rack mountings.

Now, before you do all this set the steering wheel to the centre position and put a mark on the pinion shaft and the rack housing so that you can align these on re assembly. No neen to have the track checked unless you suspect that it is already misaligned.
Iain MacKintosh

If you un-do the nut under the bottom cover then remove the UJ (will depend on type of upper column) you should be able to remove the pinion shaft/bush/seal by driving it up through the lower bearing. Not done it this way though, let us know how it goes if you have a go.



Rich

Gentlemen,

I've posted enough to this board to know that I need to mention that it's a 77B...sorry for that. This probably means I have a collapsible column?

Thanks, gents. lain, have you ever tried the method Rich describes? If not, I'll use your tried-and-true method, since it's the wife's car, and she doesn't appreciate my pioneer spirit.
Fred Doyen

I had this same problem a while back. I did as Rich suggested and removed the top and bottom covers, disconnected the UJ, and then the shaft just dropped out of the bottom cover - make sure there's enough clearance to get it out. Replacing the oil seal was then easy and reassembly just a reversal of the sequence not forgetting to add some oil! It's worth using thread sealer on the bottom cover bolts because otherwise you can get some weeping from them. I took the opportunity to fit a new plunger which meant that I had to re-shim the top cover, but none of it was a big job.
Miles Banister

Miles,

I beat you by 39 seconds. It sounds like a simple job.

However, lain, you think it could be awkward, doing it this way. Could there be complications I may encounter?
Fred Doyen

Complications, well I have a 78B and rebuilt the steering rack and replaced the oil seal and found that the damn thing was a metric one. It is something to do with the fact that my car was converted from LHD so a later rack would have been sourced from somewhere. Easiest way to tell if you have a metric rack is that the bolts holding the covers on are metric 8mm ones.

Simon
Simon Jansen

As Miles and Rich, I did this job by simply removing the front and top covers from the steering rack, undoing the u-joint and let the shaft slide forward out the rack. It was very simple this way.

However, niether of these guys mentioned what model year they have. Mine is a '74 (chrome bumper). I don't know if the later years with the different crossmember or steering-shaft-through-the-motor-mount makes a difference.

One point - When I slid the seal down the shaft, I didn't want to bugger up the seal lip by the rough paint on the shaft. I put a collar of paper on the shaft, put the seal over that, and then slid the paper and seal down the shaft. So there was no friction on the seal lip, only on the paper. When I got to the bottom, I slid the seal off the paper and into its new home.

Other point - If you take the trouble to mark the position of the shaft in the u-joint, also mark which pinion tooth matches which slot in the rack. If you're not sure why, you'll see it when you get there.
Matt Kulka

Matt - mine is a '73 and the two points you make are very valid. I'd forgotten that after removing the old seal I replaced the shaft and then slid the new seal down it. I used a piece of thin plastic cut from a bottle to protect the seal. I also remember not marking the shaft - and later wishing that I had!
Miles Banister

I like Rich's idea, quite frankly never thought of it. I would certainly have a go at it and if it is too difficult then nothing has been lost. I somehow think that it'll work fine. Just be absolutely sure that you mark everything, don't move the rack when you remove the pinion and replace the pinion with exactly the same teeth meshing.
Iain MacKintosh

While you have it apart, it would be wise to examine the wear on the seal. Examine it before you remove it. If the wear is concentric all the way around, you are probably ok. If you see that the seal seems to have worn in one area only, you should check rack alignment while you are there.
Richard Smith 1

Again, thanks to all for your advice, especially Rich. I appreciate lain responding, since his early opinion gave me concern he knew something the rest of us didn't.

I would've already had the seal replaced, but I cringe to think shipping will triple the price of a $4.50 part.
Fred Doyen

This thread was discussed between 11/07/2005 and 18/07/2005

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