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MG MGB Technical - Steering Wheel Cowling

'78 B, Left Hand Drive--

Problems with my windshield washer and horn. Want to check connections back to the source at the steering wheel. Little or no information in manual on removing the cowling from the column. Manual shows three screws securing the cowling on the left side and possibly one on the right.

Question is this--Is this a standard (flat) or phillips (cross) pattern? I've tried both with no success. Can you only get at them from the left side? Are they "dual-sided" ? Any pitfalls I need to look out for before during and after? Do I need to physically remove the steering wheel?

Cruising in the Springs

Bryan Shook
Shook

I believe they are Phillips head screws (unless a PO changed them), you do not need to remove the steering wheel, and I had no problem removing them (I had to poke around in the hole a little to get the screwdriver to seat in the slot). If I remember correctly the screw attaches into a nut which are embedded in the right side of the cowl. Once removed the cowl will then seperate and you will be able to slide the two halves away.
John

There are two different screws used in the cowl. Two or three 5MM screws that go in from the left side that hold the cowl together. These are in the front portion of the cowl. Next are two 10-24 screws that hold the cowl to the steering column. One from each side. These are in the rear. My car had a mixture of head styles holding everyting together including one allen head. The two back screws are hard to get at as the lower edge of the dash is in the way. You can take the cowl off without dropping the column but it might be easier to drop it an inch.
Mike Crowley

Thanks for the recommendations...I'll give 'em both a shot and let you know.

shook
Shook

Most (if not all) of the "Phillips" screws on an MG aren't -- they're Pozidriv®. A Phillips screwdriver doesn't work well in them. It cams out and chews up the screw head.

http://www.pbtools.ch/en/pbquality/pb_quality/unterschied_phillips_poidrv.asp

http://www.justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html

Sears has Pozidriv (note -- "z" not "s" and no "e" at the end -- may make a difference when searching tool vendors' websites) bit sets relatively cheap. A set contains one each PZ1, PZ2, and PZ3 for about $5.00US. Item #00925644000.

HTH!
Rob Edwards

Well done Rob,
I feel so vindicated! All those burred and/or impossibley difficult screws NOT MY FAULT!
Peter

Rob,

Thanks for the info on Pozidriv. The article you provided explains the difference between the two. Last year, I bought a kit containing Torx, phillips, and other bits. Guess I need to go through and separate the Pozidriv from Phillips.

Will let you know.

thanks

Shook
Shook

That is interesting. All these years working on cars and I did not realize that there was a different style. Is this a british system or is the US using them too?
Don

Went to the garage hoping to find somepozidriv bits Rob was talking about. My 1/4 inch bit set came with bits that are clearly marked PH-1 (phillips), T-1 (Torx), and P-1. Don't know what P-1 means. Guess I'll run down to the local parts shop and get some PZ models.

Thanks again for the "schooling"

shook
Shook

Now that we're chatting about screws, what about Robertson screws?

http://www.sachys-robertson.com.au/body_screw_history.html

http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/inventions.shtml

There's an interesting discovery/history channel show on the rivalry between Phillips and Robertson.

I curse phillips and posidrive screws every time I use them, though I admit they're prettier. I can't stand torx, there's too many sizes to recognize them at a glance and select the correct bit, and I just don't see the advantage of them over Robertsons.

And like they say in the articles, most of the screws we buy here are Robertson.
Mike Polan

Successful in getting the cowling off the steering column. Bought some pozidriv bits, but they weren't long enough to engage the screw. Was able to remove the screws with a long PH-2 bit. After I removed the cowling, I noticed that a black wire fell from the column. The black was not attached to anything. Looked at my laminated electrical cheat sheet and came to the conclusion that the black must have been grounded to the column itself. Hope that's right. Still couldn't get the washers to work. Guess I'll get a new washer/wiper assembly with harness.

Thanks to all who helped me decipher the type of bit I needed to remove the cowling. Could not see what kind of screw head I was working with.

Shook
shook

Did you test the washer motor? Did you check to see if you are getting power to the washer motor?
Kimberly

Yep-Did all the preliminary electrical checks- continuity, power, other ground/earth maladies. Even made some of my own testers. Got an old seat belt buzzer and made an audible tester for the areas where you can't check for power visually. Original washer didn't make any noise when hooked up to 12 volt source. Far as I can tell, the washer has been TU for quite some time. Got a new pump, but now have to isolate the power problem backwards. Thought I did that a while ago and everything pointed to column switch. By the way, don't try to disassemble the washer/wiper switch whilst in the driveway, I think I might have dropped a small significant part to the guts. Wipers work fine, the switch doesn't lock in a sturdily (word) as it did yesterday. I cannot possibly identify what part is MIA because I never saw it...just felt less tension on the arm. That's another reason I should get another switch.
Shook

This thread was discussed between 25/07/2005 and 30/07/2005

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