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MG MGB Technical - Steering wheel removal

I tried to remove the steering wheel on my 77B to replace the turn signal/horn switch. How is the wheel removed? Removed the nut and tried to use a wheel puller but there is no way to grab the wheel. After removing the center cap I expected to see a couple threaded holes or something to fix the wheel puller to but there is nothing there. What's the trick? Special tool? Any help appreciated.
Dan H.
Dan Hanson

This is one of those things that's pretty well documented in the archives. I've never done it, but the accepted method is:

* Loosen the nut until it's flush with the end of the steering shaft.
* Have one person pull on the wheel, as if to remove it.
* Meanwhile, have a second person whack the nut and shaft inward.

This loosens the wheel from the shaft.
Matt Kulka

Or, with a single person, apply pressure behind the wheel rim with your knees and hit the shaft. If your aim isn't that good place one hammer on the end of the shaft and hit that with another. It shouldn't need sledgehammer blows, just a few moderate taps. But wear eye protection just in case.
Paul Hunt

BUT be careful you don't bugger up the shaft. I used a jaw type puller which gripped, (just) around the back of the wheel. It took rather a lot of pressure to get off...there was no way it would have come off without the puller. I bought a 2 jaw from Carquest for $42.00. Money well spent. I can use it for plenty of other jobs and it's just not worth having to replace a bent or collapsed steering shaft.
P J KELLY

I'd agree with the above - I just changed the steering wheel on my 74 BGT. Similar thing, found loads of info on web/Haynes manual but when tried the prescribed method wouldn't budge the wheel. Picked up a three leg puller (Draper) for a local tool shop and tried that. After gingerly locating the puller on the back of the boss and tightening it up (whilst getting a friend to hold it in place!) it came off, all thanks to the puller as without it I would still be there "persuading" the wheel off!

Oh and be careful retightening the nut as mine seems to be cross threaded at the end thanks to PO!!
David Cross

Don't forget to have your raod wheels pointing straight ahead. That way it will be easier to get the steering wheel lined up properly when it comes to put it back on.
andrew.horrocks

Gear pullers are great. They must be, because I've never had one returned that I loaned out.

But aside from that, it might do to dab a little anti-sieze on the steering wheel splines before reassembly. Stuck steering wheels seem pretty common. Imagine the next owner of your car praising your wisdom when the wheel slides off in his hands.
Matt Kulka

Thanks to all. I tried the two jaw puller. Very awkward. Maybe another pair of hands will help. The banging on the shaft and pulling got me no where.
I'll go back to the puller. There's got to be an easier way!
Thanks again
Dan Hanson

Are you sure you need to pull the wheel to change the switches. I've replaced both the turn and wiper swithes without having to remove the wheel. The plastic covers on my 74 come off with 2 screws.
Bob Ekstrand

Dan,

I tried the puller on my 77 to to remove the wheel so I could replace my switch also. The puller bent the hub out of shape and still didn't remove the wheel. Being from Oklahoma I used the Arkansas method described in the archives whereby you construct a contraption using three blocks of 2X4 (one about 7 inches long and two 4 inch ones) and two large "C" clamps. Worked perfectly. Wish I tried it before ruining the hub.

Doug
D. Cook

I took the wheel off my '80 to replace a seized ignition switch. The wheel came off without a puller, but there would have been sufficient space with just the top and bottom sections of the cowl removed.
Vic
V Todman

Bob - Late model cars do have a one-piece switch containing both stalks so the wheel does have to come off for replacement.

Don - another method I have seen mentioned in the past, but I have never needed, is to pull up on the wheel very hard while rocking it back and fore. Still leave the nut on a few threads though, or you are likely to go base over apex over the back of the car.
Paul Hunt

Dan,
I've used a 2 leg puller but placed a large spanner at the back of the boss and located the ends of the legs in jaws of this so there is something for them to grip on. Once it's under tension a tap with a hammer usually springs everything apart.
Steve Postins

I had a similar problem and no fancy puller.

Remove an opposite pair of the bolts holding the wheel arms in place (under the horn button), and replace them with lengths of 5/16 UNF studding*. Measure the distance apart. Drill two 3/8 holes in a bit of thick steel bar the same distance apart. Undo the centre nut to the end of the thread, place the bar over the studs, and add washers and nuts. Fill the space between the bar and the centre nut with a socket or similar spacer, and tighten the nuts evenly. The wheel should come loose fairly soon after all the slack is taken up.

* or long machine screws onto which you have thoughtfully threaded nuts and washers already.

A motolita wheel can be removed in a similar fashion but first you need to make stud holes - I tapped the wiring hole and drilled and tapped another opposite.

And don't forget to label the drilled bar so that next time you need it you still won't know where to look, but when you do, you have a chance of remembering what it was for.

Cheers, Tim
Tim Stevens

This thread was discussed between 06/01/2004 and 07/01/2004

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