MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Steering wiggle

This is not the standard 60mph shake...

Something is not right with my right front wheel or suspension (72 roadster, wire hubs and minilites). When I go over a bump that hits the left front wheel, it's a bump and it's over. Hit the right front wheel, and it's a bump followed by a second or two of what feels like a flapping wheel through the column. Checked the things I thought were obvious - tie rods are tight and toe in is about 1/16th or a shade more, everything is snug and nothing wiggles when it's on the jackstands.

The only thing that seems odd is that it takes noticeably less downforce to rock that corner than the left front corner. Still returns to rest after half an oscillation, so the damper seems OK. Took the spring out last weekend and it's OK (not cracked or broken anyway).

Any other ideas? Could one spring be 'tired' but not broken? Or is this really a damper problem?

Thanks
Steve
Steve Aichele

If it takes less force to rock one corner, then I'd suggest that indicates a weak damper which could well be the cause of the problem. Since rebuilt dampers are comparitively cheap I think I'd replace both front dampers anyway and see if the problem persists.
Miles Banister

Unless you buy new dampers, change them once a year anyway - the rebuilt ones don't last very long before they weep oil or lose efficiency.
Chris at Octarine Services

Remove the upper A-arm bolt and use your hand
to push the shock arm through it's full movement.

You should feel stiff resistance throughout.
Daniel Wong

My experience with dampers is that the car can subject them to far greater loads than you can . If the wheel feels undamped , then it prolly is undamped , as Chris says for what they cost put an exchange one on , copper slip all round and next time you can do it in 1/2 hour.It is possible that you have some friction in the suspension somewhere and that gives the imporession of damping when you push down on the wing , while you have the spring off see how everything moves , and how much play there is.
S Best

I know this is a little of the subject but I recently purschased 2 recon dampers for my B I replaced the one that was broken first. I was going to change the other the but a fellow B owner said that about the recon ones not lasting and said If I change the other which works fine may be a bad move as the recon could well fail before the orginal will as the orginal has last for decades so far so leave it until it fails any views on this aproach? Should I change the one that works or not?
Jim

Steve
As you are in the USA --I would recommend World Wide Auto Parts in Madison WI as the best source of rebuilt lever arm shocks ( dampers ) as good or better than new and alot cheaper. They will rebuild yours or exchange them. I have used their shocks on both my cars and they last very well --certainly alot longer than year. I have no affiliation with WWAP --just a very satisfied customer .
Gil Price

If you have more toe-in (or out) on one wheel than another then your steering geometry is out and the different toe-in is simply compensating for that. If everything else is equal then when travelling on a flat straight surface the wheels will always balance to the same toe-in/out each side.

If the 'bounce' is different on one side than the other then obviously something is wrong - either a seized bush on one side or a weak damper on the other.

In my experience rebuilt dampers either give reasonable service or leak quite soon after fitting, in which case you simply change them again, and the chances of getting a good one next time round are higher. I can't believe anyone would recommend changing them annually as a precaution ... unless you were paying them to do so ;o)

Paul Hunt

If you follow a B or midget with shot dampers you will see the front wheels shimmy vertically after hitting a bump.Thats the most likely cause of your 'flapping'.
Dave
Dave Wellings

Last week I ordered a pair of rebuilt shocks for the front from World Wide Parts. I've read a lot of good stuff about them, and nothing negative. The guy said they'll never leak. I'll post regarding the change in ride after installation.

Last year I drained and changed the oil to 40W fork oil in all four shocks. The fronts were plenty stiff, but they leaked. Recently I went to 20W on the rear shocks after reading that the stiffer oil can damage the shocks internally.

I have a feeling that the condition/function of lever arm shocks can't be determined by bouncing the corner of the car. Not sure about that...just a feeling that they can pass the test when they're not working well.
Glenn

Bouncing is as good a test of damping with lever arms as any other type of damper, since the purpose of them all is to damp bouncing. Although marginal dampers may be OK when cold but give inadequate damping when hot. The heavier fluids are specifically *not* recommended for colder climates. Bouncing won't tell you anything about leaks though ... unless they have lost all the fluid.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 08/04/2004 and 15/04/2004

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.