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MG MGB Technical - Tie Rod Remover

Where can I find the "correct" size tie-rod separator (giant tuning fork) for the MG. Everything that I can find in the automotive stores are too wide and ended up eating the metal on the tie rod as I hammered rather than separate them. Or if anyone has a better way of separate those things I'm all ears.
Arayan

Try one of these - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040211222&r=2076&g=111
Chris at Octarine Services

Arayan - the same thing is available from Triple C <http://www.triple-c.com>, but even with the falling dollar and shipping added, the one from Machine Mart that Chris suggests is about half the price. These seperators really work great. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Hold a lump of steel on one side of the eye and give the opposite side a sharp tap with a 2lb hammer. Joint will pop out, works every time.
Iain MacKintosh

Arayan,

I've used Iain's method. It's the one job on the car that actually requires a BFH! You don't hammer the tie rod up and out but rather hit the front of the eye straight on.

Paul
Paul Hanley

Finally shelled-out for the type that Chris mentions as I was fed up fiddling about with everything else. But even then I had to modify it be building up some weld on the bottom arm for the bolt to press squarely against. Piece of pudden now.
Paul Hunt

Wow, you make a wish then you go to bed and when you wake up your prayer is answered.

Thank you everyone. I'm going to try all the methods and get the tool for the "next time", just in case. Cheers.
Arayan Lias

Arayan, you'd be hard pressed to find a professional mechanic who owns and uses the "pickle fork" or "tuning fork" tie rod separator. The BFH (big hammer) method is unbeatable and won't damage the rubber boot on the rod end, should you reassemble without replacing it.
Good luck.
Jeff Schlemmer


I agree with Iain and Jeff, I have been using this method for years and it always works , why bother to buy a specialised tool that you are only likely to use at very long intervals.
H.E.W. Walker

To all who use the BFH method - yes it does work but also can induce cracks in the steering arm and I for one won't use it.

Would you like me using 2 BFHs to beat s**t out of YOUR car?
Chris at Octarine Services

I was able to rent the perfect separator tool at my local Schucks Auto Parts for about $6. It was part of a set of tools for front end work. From the pictures, JC Whitney sells a similar tool.

Paul
PR Peterson

You might try unbolting the arms from the back of the king pins/wheels. Thats what I've always done. This is by far the easiest if you just want to remove the rack. There are then no issues with rubber boots, Special tools, cracked whatever etc...
All you need is a spanner or socket wrench.
Peter


Chris
As I said in my reply I have been using this method for many years on all types of vehicles and never yet cracked a drop arm, it has also been a recognised way of breaking a taper for many years in garages. Obviously you don't belt s..t out of it as you suggest you use a bit of common sense
H.E.W. Walker

I bought the seperator that Triple C and Whitneys sells and it is great. I've used it for nearly 25 years and disassembled many, many front ends with it. While I don't use it everyday I have used it many many times over the years and it has earned its weight in gold. BTW, I have plenty of tools I don't use every day when working on a car but when you need the 'right' tool it makes your life a lot easier. Tools are an investment.
Mike MaGee

The special tools have yet to arrived and none of the methods work (BFH and all). Sorry guys, it might be just me. Well, took Pete's idea of just disconnecting the arm from the kingpin. Worked like a charm without damaging anything. Great idea if you are not planing to change the steering assembly. Now that I've to change the rubber boots I'm going to take the whole thing to a shop and see why they are so damn tight. Thank you again everyone. Cheers!
Arayan Lias

For just changing the rubber boots (didn't realize thats what you wanted, sorry). Loosen the boot clamps, mark the front end alighnment/nut position carefully, and unscrew the ends of the rack. It'll be about 2 cm worth of thread. That would have saved unbolting the arms. Mightn't be a bad idea to count the number of turns you need to dissconect incase you wipe off the marks or something, otherwise you'll be up for a front end alighnment (which is no big deal anyway).
Peter

Not changing the boots. Needed to re-align the steering column with the rack (V8 Conv.) but now I've destroyed the boots (not gaiter boots) trying to split the tie rods. Thanks anyhow.
Arayan

Before I got the proper tool (and modified it!) I also used to remove the steering arms from the axle when removing the rack (no good for changing boots or track-rod ends) but I really wasn't happy doing it as those bolts have no means of locking like the caliper bolts do.
Paul Hunt

I agree Paul. Perhaps you can drill holes in the bolt heads and safety wire them.
Arayan Lias

Regarding special tools, I agree with Mike. I have several tools I don't use everyday. But the time and frustration I've saved when I do use them is worth the money they cost. The earlier in life you buy them, the more use you'll get, and so the more economical in the end. Build up your tool supply now, young men.

But I digress. My local Auto Zone has a loan-a-tool program. When you need something like a slide-hammer, steering wheel puller, or tie rod end remover they'll loan it to you. You do have to put down a deposit. When you bring the tool back you get a full refund.

I've heard that other auto parts stores offer this service as well. It's worth making a few phone calls to find one.
Matt Kulka

yeah, Matt, Checker Auto does the same. Got a slide hammer puller for the rear wheel shaft as it was exactly what Bentley specified as a "special tool".
J.T. Bamford

This thread was discussed between 29/03/2004 and 07/04/2004

MG MGB Technical index

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